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Post by oneowner88lx on Jan 20, 2010 22:09:24 GMT -5
You have multiple wiring and/or sensor problems and potentially engine/turbo issues. If compression is good you will have to tackle each code one at a time. This is not easy stuff. You need to do a boost leak check, get a digital multimeter, look at the sensor link below, and start working on one code at a time. There is no easy answer, if you want to fix it yourself you are going to have to start reading up, get the right equipment, and start testing and finding the problems. You need to get a digital multimeter so you can test things like sensors and circuits. I use this one: www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1264042539&sr=1-3These pages are from the book Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control (the book I recommended you buy a few pages back): rothfam.com/svo/reference/sensors.pdfIf you go to this site: www.flemworld.com/Click on 85 How Tos, scroll down and click on 2.3 Turbo Swap you will find vacuum and wiring diagrams. Read everything over on the swap and keep reading until you have a firm understanding of how things are hooked up. You won't get it the first read you will have to keep studying and reading and after a while it will make sense. This site has a lot of good info too: www.fordfuelinjection.comIf you want to fix it yourself you are going to have to do a lot of readying and studying to learn how to fix it.
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Post by Stinger on Jan 21, 2010 0:03:55 GMT -5
54-ACT (Air Charge Temp) voltage too high.
The rest of the new codes aren't valid.
It seems there are some major wiring issues causing all of the sensor voltage codes. To be honest I think the problems here are way beyond what you should be trying to fix yourself with your knowledge, particularly because there are apparently multiple unrelated problems going on here.
The turbo noise out the exhaust is normal, it will continue to spin after you shut the engine down. The wooshing noise out of the vam is normal, it is air escaping out of the vam.
Could it be timing? It's certainly not ALL of the problem but whether or not it is set correctly I have no idea. That's for you to figure out and report back here.
Could it be the fpr? It's certainly not ALL of the problem but whether or not fuel pressure is correct I have no idea. That's for you to figure out and report back here.
Could it be wiring issues? It certainly seems to be part of the problem but to what extent won't be known until all other issues are resolved.
From now on, EVERY time you mention it smoking, say what color it is (Black, Blue, or White...those are the only three colors you have to choose from). This GREATLY helps us understand what is happening.
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
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I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Jan 21, 2010 0:40:41 GMT -5
ok thanks guys i will start doing my home work. i am going to try my hardest.
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
BANNED
I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Jan 21, 2010 1:39:04 GMT -5
ok lets say its just a vacuum leak wright and i fix it, dose that mean my wires need to be rewired ect because some of code's i got are not supposed to be??? or could it just be a sensor throwing those codes?? you said the new codes i got are not wright they show up in my code scanner book, but i dont got a book for a 88 thunderbird turbo but i ordered one not to long ago.
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Post by Stinger on Jan 21, 2010 3:06:33 GMT -5
If you fix a vacuum leak it won't fix the sensor codes or wiring issues. While it could be the sensors being bad, considering it is nearly every sensor under the hood, I would suspect a wire they all share, namely the signal return wires.
They aren't valid 2.3 turbo codes.
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Post by oneowner88lx on Jan 21, 2010 9:16:30 GMT -5
And make sure all your grounds are good. Check them with an ohm meter:
- Your engine to firewall ground. - Negative battery to engine ground (under PS pump/alternator on engine), - The negative battery to inner fender ground (by battery). - There is another ground under all the wires between coil and battery. - There is a ground by the ECU behind the kick panel, down toward the floor, that grounds Pin 20. - There is another ground wire that comes off negative battery and plugs into wire harness close to the battery.
All those grounds should be zero ohms back to negative side of battery. .
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
BANNED
I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Jan 21, 2010 13:44:05 GMT -5
ok i am going to get a multimeter today
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
BANNED
I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Jan 21, 2010 18:31:23 GMT -5
do you know about how much it would cost to have some one do it??? what if i hooked it up to a diagonostic machine??? would that tell me any thing with the wireing???
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Post by oneowner88lx on Jan 21, 2010 19:33:53 GMT -5
Probably $75 an hour and you aren't going to make out very well unless they know the Ford ECU from the late '80s. Most mechanics are going to hear engine swap, non stock wiring, and run the other way.
Best bet is to find a good Ford technician who can do it as a side job. Maybe try and find some local Ford car clubs in your area and ask around.
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
BANNED
I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Feb 26, 2010 14:33:54 GMT -5
ok so i fixed my problem i think. some how my map sensor harnes came unpluged so i pluged it back in i also noticed a wire was melted from my vam its mostly white with a black stripe, so i fixed that, but i unpluged my vam and i took the little plug and wire out of the plugin and tried to put the new wire in so i did that, put it back together and went to start it. well it started up but it would not rev over 3k so i left it running and i went to my vam well i pulled the wire out of the vam and the car idled up so i rev4ed it and it would rev over 3k. so i dont know if thats is my problem or what??? i am also in the proses of traceing the signal return line to see if there is any crack's or if it is melted but so far nothing, i took it to a shop and they did a test and every thing is good compresion is good no bad rings, headgasket ect ect. the guy told me its definatly a fuel problem, he said maby a tps sensor. which he ran the codes and i want to say that is one of the codes, i also bought a ect sensor becuase i have noticed my motor temp is not moving. but do you got any other ideas??? o i also bought a new set of plug wires and plugs. these are the codes i got 22, 51, 54, 63, 66, 81, 82, 85, 88, i do know the one code is because who ever did the swap they used a computer for a auto and not a manuel, wich i was told that is ok. and yes its still smokeing a little its a little blue. i had a shop look at it and it is not the rings, valve guides ect ect ect ect.
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Post by oneowner88lx on Feb 26, 2010 19:49:37 GMT -5
You can find out what those codes mean at www.fordfuelinjection.comDon't worry about the 81 and 82 codes . Those are because the TC relay box is not hooked up. For wiring diagrams go here, click on 85 How To's, then click on 2.3 Turbo Swap and you will find links to wiring diagrams. TPS can be checked with a digital volt meter: www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=30
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
BANNED
I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Feb 27, 2010 19:27:28 GMT -5
here is a vid of my car and what it is doing. PLEASE HELP ME
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Post by Stinger on Feb 28, 2010 0:39:32 GMT -5
Well, it sounds like it's only running on 2 cylinders. Do you have a timing light? If so, make sure each cylinder is getting spark (put timing light lead on each wire and make sure timing light flashes continuously).
There is also a chance it's just that your spark plug wires are in the wrong order, though I never heard it backfire so it's probably not that.
Does it burn your eyes when you are down near the exhaust pipe?
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4banger
Boosting 20 psi
BANNED
I don't listen, I just go in circles, EFI is Stupid
Posts: 99
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Post by 4banger on Feb 28, 2010 2:29:43 GMT -5
i am not sure i am not wright it front of it, its a strong smell. what dose it mean if it dose?? i do got a timing light, and thats what the guys at allfordmustangs say it is also the timing. but see i fixed it kind of and i drove it to the shop and picked it up the next day and drove it home, and it ran ok not the best but i reved over 2-3000 on the tach. but it is possible that it is the timing? also i did buy a new set of wires and plugs. also i do know that the one spark plug is gaped wrong i know it is, i will change all of that tomarrow and i will make another vid. but ya i got all the stuff on doing the timing from your site and at AFM so i will do that tomarrow and update thanks man
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Post by Stinger on Feb 28, 2010 11:44:22 GMT -5
Checking the timing is fine but the way it is running, it's not "just" the timing...it's not running on 4 cylinders right now. You need to verify each plug is getting spark like I said above.
You need to remember there is cam timing and ignition timing as well. Cam timing isn't set with a timing light, ignition timing is. Both are explained on our tech article page.
If it burns your eyes it just verifies it is excessively rich. Oil smoke or coolant smoke doesn't burn your eyes, fuel does.
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