79 mustang turbo build

[blueovalfan]

Ok i have done a ton of research on this my car is an original 2.3l turbo with the awsome 2barrel carb turbo bolted to the intake manifold setup. (which is gonna get me nowhere when hp is concerned) I have already picked up a complete 88tc motor which is pretty much a parts motor at this point for fi parts. I know that the blocks have a few differences the biggest being that my 79 doesnt have the extra turbo oil drain boss on the passenger side so when everybody says these blocks are the same i can tell u i have both in the garadge and they are not the same. So obviously if i am gonna use my old block i have to get it tapped for the oil drain but since it doesnt have an angled boss like the later turbo block it looks like im going to need a slightly longer oil return tube or maybe the braided stinger one will be long enough? Secondly i picked up the rmj injection stand alone 88tc harness and have all the corresponding sensors. For the fuel system i purchased a holley 255 forced induction pump along with an 89 mustang fuel tank ect. However since i work in parts i have compared the fprs on all of the 2.3l and 5.0s and they all seem to use the same fpr so i know i can use any 5.0 adjustable fpr but my real question is did the svos and tcs come with an fmu to take care of fuel under boost or am i missing something here? As for the pistions my 79 has forged flat tops ie 9:1 comp vs the 8:1 comp of the tc no biggie just putting that out there. So im putting my car together with the 79 shortblock with the 88tc d port fi head with a comp cams turbo cam lift is somewhere around .422 with 110 intake and 112 exhaust lobe seperation (i beleive i dont have the spec card with me) felpro 1035 head gasket with stock head bolts. I have a fully ported turbo manifold with the gutted upper ported lower....ect budget blah blah with the la3 obviously big vam and the stock ihi turbo. im planning on pushing about 15psi not looking for 500rwhp (yet) just wondering what stinger thinks it will make i will have a wide band and an adjustable fpr with your fmic and 3"down and mid to 2.5" duals 95 octane some more timing also probably the forced 4 cai if anyboy has heard anything about it that would be helpful and im also converting to a t5 and an 8.8 3.55s and ford racing g shaft. Also havent seen much on plug selection i have run autolite 103s maybe ngks got a better plug ill look into it more. Any critisizm or opinions are welcome thx.

[Stinger]

Holy long paragraph! It's hard to read the way it's typed out.

Why not use the 88TC block? I see no advantage to use the 79 block (only disadvantages).

The 2.3T cars didn't come with FMU's, FMU's are for cars that don't have a turbo from the factory and therefore don't have an ECU set up to handle a turbo. The factory ECU controls the fuel and timing requirements without the need for an FMU (which is something nothing but a "hackjob" should use anyway).

As for hp at 15psi, stock is only 165rwhp or so and with the mods above I'd say maybe 235-250rwhp or so.

[blueovalfan]

I just had a feeling you would ask me about the tc block and my reason for not using the tc block is it has a scorn cylinder which means .030 overbore and when buying forged pistons and good rings thats alot of extra dough. Although i did read something about cheap pistions on your site maybe a price email might help u sqeeze more money out of my wallet lol

Also if the ecu is smart enough to control my fuel under boost that great news less work/money.

However, i do have a question as to if the ecu modulates fuel pump voltage to do this like on the factory supercharged mustangs because i like 2 run dedicated fuel pump circuits ie painless exspecialy on my nitrous car so there is alwys max voltage at the pump even though i use a fuel pressure cut off switch. i guess a helper pump would give me the assurance im looking for 2.

On the other note u did say there was disadvatages which is plural other than the 9:1 comp which is only a bad thing with the poo gas that they sell ou of the pumps here (i would run leaded sonoco if i didnt have a oxygen sensor) and haveing to have my block tapped for the oil return i haven really seen anything else that would be a problem since it still has the threaded water jacket so i can run my oil/water cooled ihi and the 79 block is low milage 77k to b exact and i have the motor apart and i can read every part # on every peice and havent cleaned one part by far the cleanest motor ive ever had apart. I was just wondering what other problems or quareys u might have with this?

Also i would like to ask if u may be able to recommend a better turbo because this ihi is killing me with its size and also would u even recommend a turbo change with a stock turbo manifold? i c that the hx35s r popular new they r very exspensive unless u get an ebay knock off housing which i just cant bring myself to do and god know i have scowered every salvage yard in the state looking for a *@#! cummings with a usable turbo but people jump on the trucks bringing them into the yards 2 rob them blind around here.

Yeah im pretty new to this 2.3l thing obviouly. i bought this car to actually sawp a blowthru v 8 turbo setup that i had 70 percent of but i drove this car and was actualy surprized on how well it handled with the 4cylinder and if definatly out powered any other motor they had in them in 79 which isnt hard to do but now as usual plans change and im full steam ahead with this 2.3 fi swap because everybody and there mother has a trick v8 (well at least here in az) and i wanna mix it up( maybe 4.10's and a little smack)

[Stinger]

There is no fuel pump voltage variance going on with these cars. The only cars that do that are the ones with a returnless fuel system. We have a return style system (like the newer cars often swap to once they max out the returnless stuff).

Disadvantages was plural and you listed two problems yourself (compression and oil return hole). You can add to that the weaker metallurgy of the older blocks. Regardless, I wasn't aware the TC block needed new pistons when I asked about it.

There is a turbo sizing guide on our FAQ page (along with it saying where the stock ecu, air meter, injectors, etc. max out). Besides, you've never mentioned what kind of hp goal you are after and that's the most important factor in sizing a turbo.

[blueovalfan]

my apologies i have left a few variables and could have been a bit more clear on what exactly im looking for.

Also i remebered about the returnless system and prob couldve saved face if i edited it out of my post because i dont mean to waste your time.

As for my hp goal i dont have one really because ill be fine for a bit then i always want more i was looking at starting around 350rwhp and if u r saying 230 with my setup without maxing the turbo out all the time then some smack to top it off i should be fine thx for your help.

[Stinger]

Yes, Matt C made about 220rwhp with a similar setup and then sprayed a 70 shot and made 330rwhp.

[blueovalfan]

Ok so this new ecu done messed all my plans up with its awsomeness so now I don't wanna use a stock turbo I'm thinking about buying an ebay hx35 knock off for the 300 bucks any thoughts on this?

Also I'm gonna return my head bolts and go with head studs any idea on the difference from the normal head studs and the undercut?

Last but not least I was wonder which injector size would b best for this turbo (hx35 knock off) with around 20 to 25 psi I'm sure I'm gonna just mix premium with sonoco and drive it on the weekends mostly?

[Stinger]

Buy a real Holset for $300 instead (used) and you'll have a much better turbo.

Undercut are just meant to stretch a bit more which keeps torque more consistent (supposedly), particularly when using aluminum heads that grow more when heated up.

Injector size is based purely on hp, nothing else. Our injectors list the max hp (flywheel not rear wheel). You can't run larger injectors with the stock ecu so you'll have to limit boost until then so you don't exceed the flow of the stock injectors.

[blueovalfan]

I guess i can dial my setup in with my stock ihi until i find a holset i can afford then i can start all over lmao i love cars.

On another note r u gonna have a preorder for the ms ecu(have to have one) because ive got the cash and this is gonna b the best long term option for me and i cant buy it fast enough lol.

I should be placing my order(s) as soon as i get my motor work gets done im taking my block and head in tomarrow to have them checked, cleaned, and whatever else needs to be done. Hopefully just needs to be tanked and tapped so more money for fun stuff but with my luck the block or head will be junk but thats life.

[Stinger]

I didn't plan on take pre-orders but something could be arranged if you need somewhere to put the money before you (or someone else) spends it.

[blueovalfan]

:'(The drama continues as i expected the whole 79 block not having the angled boss for the oil return turned out to b a bigger deal that i thought. The 79 block is only 1/2 inch thick were its flat boss is and the 88 block is 3/4 to 1inch thick were the return threads in because of the boss it has so it will actualy seal. Since the 79 block isnt if i tap it for the same size fitting it will only have 3 threads or so were the other has a minimum of 5 or more since the top is thin but the bottom and side have 10 + so the machinist said he would do it but it might crack the block (sounds pretty jankie to me as these blocks r tapped everywhere) and since pipe plugs are tapered he said if he did tap it and insert the fiiting without damaging the block that it would probably leak with only 3 threads or so.

Maybe i could use a different kind of fitting in the block(or maybe he is full of #$@!)? or maybe ill just tap the pan anybody done this?

on a lighter note a 79 oil pan has a stock oil baffel to let u guys know. my 88 pan didnt.

[Stinger]

I'd just tap the pan and use on of our header return lines. I'd suggest getting the line first though so you can ensure it will fit where you want to tap it.

[blueovalfan]

i figured the pan would be easy i guess ill fill it with 5qt of water and mark an oil line thow it will lower when the engine is on but i figure this would be easiest since i can weld a fitting onto it or just install nilon washers on both sides with a nut. idk have to have an oil return.

block and head r both getting cleaned and checked hopefully they will have good news for me meaning decks and valves+seats r good. im gonna work on figuring out the oil return situation tomarrow. Do u have a length and fitting sizes for your return because i looked at your line and i dont think i will use the final angled pipe fitting just were the braided hose attaches to it.

[Stinger]

The line uses -10 AN fittings.

[blueovalfan]

ok i ordered my 10an fitting from summit for my pan p# RUS-670870 along with the undercut studs for the 5 dollar difference. I also placed my order for your return line and the flange which i need to be modified for an ihi.