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Post by bobbarker on Feb 18, 2011 22:18:59 GMT -5
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Post by Stinger on Feb 19, 2011 1:00:57 GMT -5
Didn't it come with directions?
It's kind of hard to see on my phone but it appears that you'd put the wire leads in the COM (black/ground) and the one to the right (has a V for voltage). The far left A is for amps which you aren't trying to measure here.
On the round dial the "headphone" looking sign below the hold button is "ohms" resistance.
The V with a solid and dashed line beside it is DC voltage (like cars). So the 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock range is for DC voltage. You'd select 20 since a 12v car system is below 20.
The V~ is AC voltage (like houses).
It looks like it tells you which wire leads to hook up as you rotate the dial.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 19, 2011 1:58:05 GMT -5
Well it's not that exact multimeter, but it's got all the same buttons. The one I have has 2 wire probes that have only 2 places they can plug into the meter at. One red the other black, I assume that means positive and negative. I'll set the meter to the V with a solid and dashed line on 20 and see what I get.
Thanks
and yes it had instructions, but they were not very detailed and didn't help me at all.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 19, 2011 12:58:37 GMT -5
I have the TPS now set at .97 was at .77 or close to that! It's idling a lot better, and the bucking I was experiencing during light throttle cruising is less severe, but still not a completely smooth idle or cruising throttle. I had a friend push the gas pedal and didn't notice any drops through the range, finished near 5.04v.
I pulled the IAC off and looked it over again. I've cleaned it twice within a year now, checked the male end of the plug and it has power to it, what about the female end? What is it supposed to do when the engine is warm or cold? I held the IAC valve in hand and plugged in the pigtail to try to see what it did and there was no movement. This was with the engine completely warmed up from 20 minutes of driving, the key on the "run" position but engine off. What, if anything, should I expect to see happen when the IAC is plugged in?
Like I said, the car will run and idle o.k., still a little rough, but when I turn on the radiator fans they pull so much amperage that the car really struggles to idle. I've also gone through all hoses and pipes to double check for any vacuum leaks and didn't find any.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 19, 2011 19:38:08 GMT -5
I'm almost positive you asked the same question about the fuel cell and such earlier in this thread. I remember suggesting to just paint the tank flat black (you say it's white above?). You'll spend a TON of cash put in a fuel cell, converting fuel lines, getting a useable pump, etc. for nothing but aesthetic reasons.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 19, 2011 21:58:57 GMT -5
I have the TPS now set at .97 was at .77 or close to that! It's idling a lot better, and the bucking I was experiencing during light throttle cruising is less severe, but still not a completely smooth idle or cruising throttle. I had a friend push the gas pedal and didn't notice any drops through the range, finished near 5.04v. I pulled the IAC off and looked it over again. I've cleaned it twice within a year now, checked the male end of the plug and it has power to it, what about the female end? What is it supposed to do when the engine is warm or cold? I held the IAC valve in hand and plugged in the pigtail to try to see what it did and there was no movement. This was with the engine completely warmed up from 20 minutes of driving, the key on the "run" position but engine off. What, if anything, should I expect to see happen when the IAC is plugged in? Like I said, the car will run and idle o.k., still a little rough, but when I turn on the radiator fans they pull so much amperage that the car really struggles to idle. I've also gone through all hoses and pipes to double check for any vacuum leaks and didn't find any. Sorry bud, I think you may have been reading the wrong page. This (above) is what I was asking about this afternoon. Not sure how you got the fuel cell question twice though. Thanks for any help!
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Post by Stinger on Feb 20, 2011 14:07:25 GMT -5
You should see the IAC move when the fans are turned on.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 20, 2011 15:54:14 GMT -5
The fans are wired to a switch on the bottom of the dash and not to the ECT sensor or whatever drives them. Could that be part of the problem? I bought the car and the aftermarket radiator and fans were already wired to a switch.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 20, 2011 22:38:00 GMT -5
No, that shouldn't be the problem.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 21, 2011 18:18:50 GMT -5
I had my car up to operating temps and unplugged the IAC and it died. Turned the idle screw and plugged the IAC back in, started the car and it was idling (roughly) between 1200 and 1500rpm. Unplugged the IAC again and it died again. Any thoughts on that? Why it won't idle even at full operating temp with the IAC unplugged and the idle screw raised? I also advanced the timing to 16* btdc, going down the road the car was loving the extra timing. I'll probably leave it there. But I gotta figure out this rough/wandering idle. Done all the resets/checks/adjustments to the TPS and IAC from your tech pages. I'm out of ideas.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 22, 2011 0:14:16 GMT -5
No idea, you should be able to get it to idle perfectly once warm with no IAC by just adjusting the idle speed screw. My SVO has been this way for over a year and works fine...just requires a little throttle input on a cold start to keep it running until it builds a little heat.
How much vacuum do you have at an 800-1000 rpm idle?
Assuming your timing is advancing like it should, you'll most certainly blow a headgasket very soon unless you're 1) running race fuel or 2) running very low boost.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 22, 2011 0:35:20 GMT -5
The boost is limited by my foot for now, since I haven't figured out the boost control issues I am having I don't drive hard. I'll back the timing off if it's not a good idea to leave that high. I only set it there because of the write up in the tech files said some cars may run well with 18* timing advance but it's up to me (or whoever) to set as I feel comfortable. Never heard any detonation on my little romp to the corner and back. No worries though, I'll back it down. It was advancing to 30*+ after plugging the spout back and working the throttle cable by hand.
Tomorrow I'll take a look at the vacuum side of the boost gauge and see what it's reading.
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 22, 2011 0:36:16 GMT -5
Would it be worth looking at the throttle plate to see if it's closing completely at idle and maybe choking the engine too much?
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Post by Stinger on Feb 22, 2011 3:37:15 GMT -5
The boost is limited by my foot for now, since I haven't figured out the boost control issues I am having I don't drive hard. I'll back the timing off if it's not a good idea to leave that high. I only set it there because of the write up in the tech files said some cars may run well with 18* timing advance but it's up to me (or whoever) to set as I feel comfortable. Never heard any detonation on my little romp to the corner and back. No worries though, I'll back it down. It was advancing to 30*+ after plugging the spout back and working the throttle cable by hand. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the vacuum side of the boost gauge and see what it's reading. That article was written 8+ years ago and that portion slipped through the cracks when it was updated. There I fixed the tech article...no more 18 degree mention... You should fix that boost control issue...it's no fun if you can't run it hard.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 22, 2011 3:40:44 GMT -5
Would it be worth looking at the throttle plate to see if it's closing completely at idle and maybe choking the engine too much? The throttle screw changes the "closed" position of the TB plate. When completely closed (not touching the stop screw) with the IAC unplugged it shouldn't allow enough air through to idle. You should be able to turn the screw up enough for it to idle high (1400 rpm or whatever) and then slowly turn it back down until it idles at 1000 rpm or below. If this doesn't work but it idles at 1000 rpm or below with the IAC functioning, it doesn't make sense and I'll have to try and wrap my brain around it for a couple days.
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