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Post by bobbarker on Feb 22, 2011 3:45:52 GMT -5
Well thanks for all the help so far. I'm at a loss, and would be much worse off without the knowledge of this board!
And you're right, it is not fun not running past 3k because I'm afraid to build any boost! I'll probably (hopefully) get that worked out by this weekend and make due with the idle problem until my light bulb comes on (or gets turned on by someone else).
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Post by bobbarker on Feb 23, 2011 15:01:00 GMT -5
So I applied 20psi to the "lower" air fitting on the wastegate. The one closest to the two flanges, and the air would only come out of the rubber hose I was using to make the connection. The flange on bottom of the wastegate did not open.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 24, 2011 1:49:19 GMT -5
If it's leaking out of the hose you're using then the gate isn't seeing 20psi and the test isn't valid.
Also when the gate opens, you won't feel air coming out of it (unless the engine is running). You'll have to physically touch the valve or look into the flange hole to view it.
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dizzle
Boosting 25 psi
Posts: 239
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Post by dizzle on Feb 27, 2011 23:08:02 GMT -5
Mr. Barker, I need more pics. its amazing to see what you have done with that car. By the way (not sure if i told you this yet) the speakers were cut into the doors by the owner who we bought the car from. Sorry about butting into your discussion.
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 1, 2011 3:43:27 GMT -5
No problems about the cutting in!
The door covers and speakers are long gone now. It's close to completely stripped inside, other than front seats, center console and dash. I'm deciding what to do with the floor still... Being lazy is the real reason it's not done.
I'll get some more pics up soon, hopefully. Right now work is very busy for me and I've got a couple races coming up that I use all my free time to prepare for. So tinkering with the car is a challenge to say the least.
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dizzle
Boosting 25 psi
Posts: 239
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Post by dizzle on Mar 1, 2011 15:18:17 GMT -5
What kind of races, if you don't mind me asking?
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 1, 2011 23:20:57 GMT -5
An Xterra 5k this weekend and a triathlon in Key West 3 weeks later. When I say races, it's not the car! At least not in the current state of operation!
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Post by Stinger on Mar 2, 2011 0:24:55 GMT -5
Be aware that there was a guy who gutted the interior of his car for weight reduction and didn't have any of the door panels or anything covered with sheetmetal. He was involved in a crash and was "cheese grated" from all of the sheet metal edges on all of the holes in the door and dash. Something to consider before planning on driving a stripped vehicle.
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 2, 2011 0:57:50 GMT -5
Ouch!
Thanks for the heads up! Door panels are planned, but were pushed off until later, and now have been moved to the top of the list!
That sounds damn painfull!
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 4, 2011 0:04:39 GMT -5
So I rechecked all the grounds from battery to engine block and starter, all were tight and on bare metal. Then Warmed the car up and started pulling hoses off the vacuum tree, each one pulled the idle got rougher and picked up a little, all about the same amount, and still have the rough idle. I was fingering around the VAM a little bit and noticed the green wire is exposed from it's insulation. Could that cause issue with idle if it's not sending a full signal?
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Post by Stinger on Mar 4, 2011 2:10:44 GMT -5
Not sure what you were trying to accomplish with the vacuum test but all it tells you is that there is vacuum in the vacuum tree (as proven by the idle changing every time you pulled a hose). To check for vacuum leaks you need to watch the boost/vac gauge while pulling one line at a time. If you pull a line and plug the "leak" and the vacuum reads higher, there is a leak somewhere that line runs to and you need to plug it back in and move to the next junction in that line and re-do the test.
Insulation doesn't help a wire send a full signal. It just keeps it from shorting out.
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 4, 2011 2:30:38 GMT -5
10-4 Roger that
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 8, 2011 0:53:21 GMT -5
I took the WG off last night and put air to it, watched it open fully and operate like it should. Then I took off the MBC just because, put air through that and it was working like it should. I have no way of measuring how much air is coming out the other side of the boost controller, but it "felt" like the same amount as I was putting in, leading me to believe it is wide open and letting as much air through as possible feeding the WG like it should.
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Post by Stinger on Mar 8, 2011 2:25:07 GMT -5
At what pressure does the wastegate "crack" open and at what pressure is it fully open?
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Post by bobbarker on Mar 8, 2011 3:48:06 GMT -5
The gauge on the regulator doesn't read below 20psi so I can only guess at it.
I did turn it down, but since there are no numbers below 20 I would guess around 10-15.
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