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Post by boostgobbler on Nov 19, 2012 0:05:44 GMT -5
Well the starter didn't die it was just a bad negative battery cable. I need to set ignition timing but i cant to that until tomorrow. I hope that's all I need to do because this thing is turning into a nightmare.
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Post by Stinger on Nov 19, 2012 2:03:41 GMT -5
They do that sometimes.
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Post by boostgobbler on Nov 19, 2012 2:39:58 GMT -5
lol the first 2 times I did this swap it was smooth sailing for the most part, I guess the Phrase of choice here would be the 3rd times the disaster! I don't plan on giving up but this is really trying to test me, spent all weekend on this. Tomorrow hopefully i can get some one to assist me so i can set timing, unless i can find somewhere local that sells one of these lovely devices www.motorsport-tools.com/sealey-remote-engine-starter-switch-vs2057-p-249815.html but much cheaper! I think i could probably make that..
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becools
Boosting 25 psi
Addicted to boost..
Posts: 110
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Post by becools on Nov 25, 2012 10:44:00 GMT -5
Sweet setup Keep us posted..
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 1, 2012 23:05:45 GMT -5
So today I checked a lot of things. As a result of these checks I can only come to the conclusion that my factory LA2 is fried, here is why. Today I confirmed spark at the plug, confirmed timing at 10* confirmed cam to be zeroed at TDC, fuel pressure is 43.5 all electrical connections are connected. when I finally attempted to to fire and failed with not even a sputter I pulled the ignition and they where not wet at all. I know i have compression and I know i have spark and its in time. the LA2 I have is the same one I had in when I had a fire that reached the the harness to the computer and burned it up good, so Im thinking in that process maybe there where some shorts and it fried something in the computer. So now I'm going to find an LA3 and attempt to fire. If that works then Ill switch back to the pimp and go from there.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 6, 2012 22:00:01 GMT -5
IT LIVES AGAIN!!! MUAHAHAHAHAHA!!! My old LA2 was shorted out to death from the little fire I had a few years ago, looks like my wideband gauge was as well considering all it does now is start at around 14 and rises to -- reading witch is the same thing it would do with the car off. Anyway it runs again! and now with a LA3. Its dark out so I did leave it running long, I have to do all the typical small things like check for leaks and top off coolant ext. I also have to double check my TPS voltage. the timing was jumping just a bit between 19 and 20 at idle but I assume that due to the cam and the fact that it was the first start on the LA3 and it would smooth out with steady throttle. Next step after i get a front end alignment and all the other little stuff is to get a handle on the PIMP! and start making a few extra horses! WOOOOOOO :') stay tuned!
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Post by Stinger on Dec 6, 2012 23:01:51 GMT -5
You may just need to calibrate the wideband.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 7, 2012 0:29:47 GMT -5
I hope so, Ill take a look at the instructions and see if i can figure it out. It use to work fine though so im hoping maybe it just got thrown off due to maybe a power surge or something.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 7, 2012 0:40:46 GMT -5
looks like im just suppose to rotate the calibration switch on the back to one of the setting numbers, ill try that tomorrow after work.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 7, 2012 21:16:47 GMT -5
Every thing seems to be in order so far except 1 thing, and that's my clutch quadrant. I drove around the parking lot some and it its not quite adjusted correctly and the factory plastic doesn't want to do its job properly. So for Christmas ill buy myself a MM adjustable quadrant kit and see how that goes. The biggest disappointment with the new set up so far is the K-member, the engine mount design to be exact. These make my chuck mount feel like stock mounts, eeeeeeverything in the car vibrates now. they have poly inserts but they might as well be solid. so im going to save up and get a MM k-member sometime late next year, maybe next fall/winter. But it runs! lol i don't plan on doing a lot of driving with this much vibration though.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 8, 2012 1:11:43 GMT -5
Im going to save up for a PA k-member and stick with my Chuck W mounts, i know what im spending part of my tax check on ha.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 8, 2012 2:58:49 GMT -5
What makes you think the k-member is causing the vibration and not the mounts (or something else)? I can't think of anything that would make the k-member cause vibrations but I know too much vibration is a common complaint with Chuck's mounts. He has a softer insert available for this reason.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 8, 2012 3:21:53 GMT -5
I say its the k-member only because with AJE you can only use there mounts, the way its designed is with a metal tube on the k-member with a polyurethane bushing on the inside. The part of the mount that attaches to the k-member is just metal a long bolt connects these two. So is seems the polyurethane insert is ether to hard, not thick enough or a combination of both. I was using chuck mounts on my stock K-member there was some vibration but i didn't mind, I didn't think it was to bad. The car vibrates so hard now the keys jingle at idle lol, its pretty ridiculous. Ill take some video tomorrow.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 8, 2012 3:31:47 GMT -5
Here is a pic see the bolts above the studs for the rack? Those are going threw the Poly bushings. That is the only vibration dampening and its actually attached to the k member.
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Post by boostgobbler on Dec 8, 2012 3:33:56 GMT -5
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