|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 15, 2012 7:11:58 GMT -5
On the yellow wire, I just made it a jumper and put it right onto the large output lug on the alternator.
Thanks for the tune, I will give it a try today and report back. I'm going to remove the battery ground and check it or move it as well.
|
|
|
Post by wesk on Nov 15, 2012 9:58:11 GMT -5
I would try (temporarily) grounding the squirt directly to the battery. This will completely eliminate any influence the alternator could possibly have on it, or any of its connected loads in terms of raising the potential of its ground plane.
Is this a conventional cased squirt, or one of Wilsons PNP ford kits (squirt in an EEC box)?
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 15, 2012 12:12:20 GMT -5
Conventional case with a DIY harness. No EEC factory stuff at all.
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 15, 2012 15:01:25 GMT -5
Did some testing today. Wess I raised the idle some, installed your tune and it didn't adjust anything. If anything, the higher idle just made it miss worse. I moved my battery cables around so I am positive the battery has a good ground to the frame. I checked continuity to all the grounds I could think of. I even ran a new switched wire for the alternator from the fuse box to the alternator. I have a master disconnect switch on the positive side of the battery. I changed some wires around so the charging side goes to the battery side terminal and the top terminal on the battery now feeds the master switch and the rest of the car. Didn't do anything to help. I am now going to remove all the MS ground wires and run them to the battery directly. This is proving to be a needle in a haystack.
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 15, 2012 16:07:41 GMT -5
Changed the grounds to the block per someone's suggestion and it did nothing. I'm thinking this brand new $300 alternator may be a turd. If it is I'm going to throw it back to Pennsylvania from Ohio. I'm out of things to try in my head. I guess I'll take the alternator to be tested.
|
|
|
Post by wesk on Nov 15, 2012 16:11:25 GMT -5
Changed the grounds to the block per someone's suggestion and it did nothing. I'm thinking this brand new $300 alternator may be a turd. If it is I'm going to throw it back to Pennsylvania from Ohio. I'm out of things to try in my head. I guess I'll take the alternator to be tested. If the alternator is charging there really is only a few different ways it can actually affect anything:' 1) General EMI-Perhaps I haven't looked at enough logs (just the first one you posted), but this looked clean 2) Raising potential of MS ground plane (which is why I suggested coupling the MS directly to the battery) 3) Additional load on engine forcing the engine to operate at a different point on the map (what I attempted to cover with the tuning file I sent). Simply changing the lternator if it is holding 14 volts is not a good use of your time at this point.
|
|
|
Post by wesk on Nov 15, 2012 16:22:28 GMT -5
Are you sure your TS project is defined properly for this firmware? In the log, engine speed does some impossible things (goes from 900 to 200 to 900 in 3 sequential samples), and sync loss counter stays at 5, despite engine speed going from stopped to cranking to running. The first time I looked at your logs, and glanced over "sync loss counter" and since it wasn't increasing thought it was good.
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 15, 2012 17:05:26 GMT -5
The saga continues. Finally got fed up with searching for ghosts so I took the alternator off and stopped at Advance Auto on the way home. The hooked it up and tested it 3 times and all 3 times it failed. Of course their machine doesn't specify why it failed but it did. So now I have a $300 boat anchor. I called PA Performance but this alternator is several years old. It was in a box all that time but their warranty will likely cover nothing due to age. We have an electric shop called the Electric Garage that will check it out for me. Maybe I fried the regulator or something. It was charging on the car but apparently it has some problem in there. I will post back with results when I have any.
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 16, 2012 11:10:39 GMT -5
Took the alternator to a "starter and alternator" specialty shop. Tested perfect. So if you frequent the chain parts stores for testing, and you always seem to be buying replacement parts, you may want to have someone else do the testing. The service tech sold me a one way diode to put in the ignition line to the alternator. It only allows 12v to flow to the alternator and no voltage can backflow into the fuse box or ignition. I reinstalled the alternator, installed the diode. Started the car and it charges as it always did, 14v on the gauge. Still won't run. So now I can eliminate faulty alternator from the equation. I also wired the "battery 12v" for the alternator to the battery directly, per his suggestion as a test, no help. I now have it jumpered right back to the output lug on the alternator.
So, back to where I started. :RTFM: I have the MS grounds on the engine block. I have the block and transmission grounded to the frame. I have the battery grounded to the frame. Alternator has a 2 gauge ground to engine/transmission. Every large ground is 2 gauge wire. Battery is reading 12.6 volts sitting there so it appears to be good. I also switched to a known good battery yesterday to test with no change in results. My next step is to look at power to the MS. I want to check measured voltage coming into the wire and make sure it's not getting some loss or spike for some reason. I have fan controllers and relays in the same box so you never know what could be going on. I would think clean power is just as important as clean grounds. I hope I find something because I'm really getting stumped here.
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 16, 2012 17:07:30 GMT -5
Connected a jumper cable to the alternator ground and ran it directly to the battery. Seemed to help a little but not good still. It has been suggested to wire in a noise suppressor into the 12v feed wire to the MS. What does everyone think? Looks like the high amp alternator is just making the datalog like a heart monitor.
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 21, 2012 15:02:53 GMT -5
Installed the 1uf capacitor into the coil harness on the LS2 coils. It even things out some but still not right. New datalog after the change. Anyone have any ideas? What about a RFI filter on the MS power or a filter or capacitor on the crank trigger sensor. I'm running out of ideas honestly. I guess I could start re-soldering stuff.
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Nov 24, 2012 21:43:21 GMT -5
Did you intend to attach a new datalog?
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Nov 30, 2012 14:33:08 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by fortydegnorth on Dec 5, 2012 19:53:58 GMT -5
Fixed today. I believe the RFI noise filter did the trick on the 12v power to the MS.
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Dec 6, 2012 1:05:03 GMT -5
Good to hear you got it figured out! Talk about a mess to find!
|
|