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Post by jmann2108 on Jun 30, 2013 11:54:29 GMT -5
Just purchased a 93 coupe with an SVO swap stock for the most part fuel regulator and manual boost controller trying to see what tuner would be best bang for the buck my plans are 3-350 hp daily driven auto with A/C just wanting a clean 4cyl with some spunk any help would be great thanks
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Post by Stinger on Jun 30, 2013 14:41:06 GMT -5
I can't answer this as I don't know what sort of system(s) you have experience with, what your skillset is, etc. First you have to decide between a "piggyback" system that plugs into the stock ECU and lets you adjust things from there, or a standalone ECU that replaces the stock ECU and allows you to easily ditch the factory air meter (and a ton of other things). What options do I have for tuning/modifying the stock computer settings? -F3 Chip (View Here) with Jaybird (View Here) (Cheapest tuning option) -Binary Editor and EEC Analyzer Software (View Here) (Tuning Software to be used with F3 or Quarterhorse) -Quarterhorse (View Here) (Tune and Datalog in real time) The F3 chip plugs into the stock ECU's service port and basically "interrupt" the signal to the ecu. They are tuned with a computer (laptop or pc). They are not tuned "on the fly" meaning the engine is off during tuning. You can adjust "anything" that the ecu controls, rev limiter, injectors, timing, etc...anything you can dream of really. The main difference between the J3 and the Quarterhorse is that the F3 uses and external chip burner and can't tune with the engine running while the Quarterhorse is self burned, meaning the "burner" is part of the chip board and can datalog and tune in real time (engine running) which is a huge benefit when tuning. The F3 uses removable chips that can have different tunes burned onto them for easy swapping of tunes without a computer (at the track or something). What other EFI tuning options do I have (Stand-Alone EFI)? -Stinger Performance PiMP (View Here) -Pre-Assembled DIY Megasquirt (View Here) -F.A.S.T -Holley Commander -Accel DFI -Big Stuff 3 -SDS Above is from our FAQ page. If you want the "view here" links to work, you'll have to view them on our site: www.stinger-performance.com/faq.html
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Post by jmann2108 on Jun 30, 2013 17:52:25 GMT -5
Thanks a ton I overlooked the quarter horse and think I'm gonna go with it, off subject is there a way I can find out if my motor is truly an SVO or stock 2.3 with a turbo on it, I was having problems with my air/fuel meter jumping all over but fixed that problem with a couple gaskets on the turbo now she runs smoothly and kicks 10-12 psi according to the gauge which was 5 before and she runs a little rich thanks Stinger
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Post by Stinger on Jun 30, 2013 23:41:17 GMT -5
A turbo block has the oil return into the side of the block under the turbo. A n/a engine with a turbo on it will typically return the oil into the pan. Cranking compression on a turbo block should also be 155psi or below, n/a engine with a turbo will be above that.
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Post by jmann2108 on Jul 13, 2013 7:56:40 GMT -5
Wel thanks for ur help come to find out its a N/A 2.3 not sure about the head but it does run good with 10psi just received the manual boost controller but afraid to turn it up any suggestions, And if u come across any tc motor & harness please shoot em my way thanks stinger
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Post by Stinger on Jul 13, 2013 13:19:42 GMT -5
I agree, I wouldn't turn up the boost UNLESS it's a n/a block but has turbo internals (dished forged pistons). You should be able to locate a turbo engine in the for sale/wanted section of this forum. You don't need a harness.
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Post by jmann2108 on Jul 14, 2013 11:29:25 GMT -5
Just wondering what's a good price for a complete motor
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Post by Stinger on Jul 14, 2013 17:39:40 GMT -5
Typically a complete "ready to run" turbo engine is 400-500 and a good condition shortblock is 200-300 and a longblock 200-400. Again, though, there is a chance you've already got a "good" engine. You need to verify via a compression test to start with.
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Post by jmann2108 on Jul 15, 2013 16:04:51 GMT -5
Ok what #'s should I look for, And where could I find a good set of pistons & rods, thanks
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Post by Stinger on Jul 15, 2013 20:39:09 GMT -5
What numbers are you referring to?
If you don't plan to exceed 400rwhp, you don't need pistons and rods. We sell pistons and rods if you need to go that route.
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Post by jmann2108 on Jul 16, 2013 6:25:49 GMT -5
Was referring to compression #'s to see what internals I have before buying another motor
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Post by Stinger on Jul 16, 2013 12:43:53 GMT -5
That info is provided in my second post from June 30th in this thread.
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Post by jmann2108 on Jul 16, 2013 18:51:53 GMT -5
Duhh. Thanks
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Post by jmann2108 on Jul 18, 2013 13:46:45 GMT -5
Haven't had time to check the compression #'s but once I do and I get it all figured out would u be able to tune my car for $$$ of course
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Post by Stinger on Jul 19, 2013 12:30:05 GMT -5
The only way I can help to tune it is if you get a PiMP. I don't have the hardware/software required to tune the "chip" based options.
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