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Misfire
Mar 19, 2016 14:44:49 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Mar 19, 2016 14:44:49 GMT -5
Assuming the vacuum line was connected to the FPR during this test then the FPR isn't functioning properly, or the pump is failing. It seems more like the FPR than the pump though. This would be a large part of why you're maxing out the injectors earlier than expected.
If you "dead head" the fuel pump by blocking the return line while checking pressure, you should get 80+psi. This can be difficult to do with steel and plastic fuel lines though. With a rubber line it's easy to pinch off flow.
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gman
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 35
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Misfire
Mar 19, 2016 16:39:36 GMT -5
Post by gman on Mar 19, 2016 16:39:36 GMT -5
Yeah, I can easily pull off the return line at the bottom, but I don't have a piece of 1/4" steel tubing with the roll an inch or so from the end that I can push into the locking hose fitting and then put a clamped off hose onto that piece of tubing. And it looks really tough to get to the other end of the return line at the fuel rail and get that off without taking off the intake manifold.
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Misfire
Mar 19, 2016 21:47:33 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Mar 19, 2016 21:47:33 GMT -5
You can certainly take both lines off with the intake in place but plugging the line isn't always trivial.
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gman
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 35
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Misfire
Mar 26, 2016 16:27:07 GMT -5
Post by gman on Mar 26, 2016 16:27:07 GMT -5
Hey Stinger, I used a garden sprayer hooked up to a gauge to apply pressure to the FPR. The fuel line pressure would not increase when I applied pressure to the FPR, so I replaced it. (BTW, that third allen screw in the back was the most fun.) I retested and fuel pressure went up a corresponding psi with actuator pressure applied. The car seems to run much better at 10# boost, but above 4600 rpm I can clearly see the injectors are maxed out, as Duty cycle reaches 100% and AFR goes up beyond that rpm (see attached log with a pull in first, then second gear at WOT). Attachment DeletedI see a Walbro and then injectors as the logical way forward. Unfortunately, my wife wants me to sell the car, so I negotiated time through the summer to screw with it, and then I have to dump it this fall.
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Misfire
Mar 27, 2016 1:35:58 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Mar 27, 2016 1:35:58 GMT -5
I agree with your assessment.
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gman
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 35
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Misfire
Mar 27, 2016 7:18:22 GMT -5
Post by gman on Mar 27, 2016 7:18:22 GMT -5
I'm trying to develop a gameplan for the future. My plan is to sell the car, but keep the MS2/adapter harness/CAI for another project later. I'd like some room for power improvement now, with some flexibility not knowing what I might want to do in the future.
If I get the Walbro installed, what injectors would you recommend for a street car?
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Misfire
Mar 27, 2016 12:56:44 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Stinger on Mar 27, 2016 12:56:44 GMT -5
You're going to have a really hard time selling the car without an ECU.
Is your ECU set up for only low impedance injectors or would you be able/willing to set it up for modern high impedance injectors?
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gman
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 35
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Misfire
Mar 27, 2016 13:53:41 GMT -5
Post by gman on Mar 27, 2016 13:53:41 GMT -5
Ah, but I left the LA3 in the car. I have a wiring harness that plugs into the EEC IV connector. If I want to switch back to the LA3, I can just remove my MS2 and the harness, reinstall the VAM, and switch a connector back to the narrow band O2 sensor.
I can do whatever I want with the MS2 -- low or high impedance injectors.
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Misfire
Mar 27, 2016 19:13:03 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Stinger on Mar 27, 2016 19:13:03 GMT -5
If you've got a stock head/cam then our 60lb high imp Injectors would be a good match.
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gman
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 35
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Misfire
May 5, 2016 20:16:18 GMT -5
Post by gman on May 5, 2016 20:16:18 GMT -5
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Misfire
May 5, 2016 23:25:44 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on May 5, 2016 23:25:44 GMT -5
Good deal!
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