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Post by expturbocoupe on Apr 30, 2018 13:03:06 GMT -5
Now that I have a custom exhaust I am able to hear things better inside the engine bay and when the engine is fully warm I hear a noise coming from my cylinder head. It's not a ticking or knocking but more like a "dry rub" or maybe "dry roll" sound. It's weird. I see oil splashing under the valve cover but I am thinking the oil pressure at idle isn't enough and two things come to mind. My oil grade 10w30 is not enough for the extra heat OR I need to add a restrictor to the turbo's inlet line. I believe the oil feed I bought may be too big for my oil pump and I am experiencing slight pressure loss to the point that my roller head assembly is lacking adequate oil. It's only at idle though and I will have to check the oil pressure. Once I am off idle the sound goes away.
What does the 2.3 liters run for oil pressure at idle? Mine is normal around 10-15 at idle. Would 10w50 or 10w60 maybe help boost up low end pressure?
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Post by Stinger on Apr 30, 2018 13:25:08 GMT -5
How big is your oil line at its smallest point?
I would not suggest running significantly thicker oil. The first number in oil is the weight so 10w30 and 10w60 are the same weight. So to go thicker it would be 20w30.
10-15psi at idle is a little low but not unheard of. Somewhere in the 20's to low 30's would be better.
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Post by expturbocoupe on Apr 30, 2018 13:33:25 GMT -5
I am using your line that's for the 2.3 Turbos with rotated intake I believe. Shorter version.
I see, thanks for the heads up on the oil grade.I was under the impression that 10w30 means that 10 is thickness when cold and 30 is thickness when hot.
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Post by Stinger on Apr 30, 2018 14:16:32 GMT -5
In regard to multigrade oils, the first number in the code, such as 10W in SAE 10W-30, means that the oil can still be pumped by the engine at a temperature as low as a single grade 10W oil. A 5W, like in SAE 5W-30, can be pumped at an even lower temperature, and a 0W, like in SAE 0W-30, will pump at the lowest tested temperatures. The W in the designation is commonly thought to represent weight, but in fact stands for Winter. The second number, 30, indicates how well the oil will flow when heated to 100C/212F or higher. This doesn't mean the oil gets thicker as it heats up, it means it doesn't thin out much like single grade oils so it acts like 10w when cold and 30w when hot, which are actually similar viscosity (10w cold or 30w hot = similar viscosity).
You can certainly block the oil line so it's not flowing and hold the turbo from spinning and see if oil pressure goes up a bunch. No idea how your engine's oiling system reacts to adding a turbo line.
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Post by expturbocoupe on Apr 30, 2018 14:26:16 GMT -5
Here in the US the CVH engines were rarely used for Turbo application (1984 and 1985) but in the UK they are notorious turbocharged in the Escort RS, Fiesta RS, Sierra, Etc etc. I believe they have a different oil pump compared to the US specs. Their engine upgrade is using my block for the larger displacement however I may need to order a pump from them if I can't get another 5-10 PSI of oil pressure at idle.
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Post by wesk on May 22, 2018 13:49:37 GMT -5
Where are you,actually measuring oil pressure? If in head 10 psi warm is functionally plenty for idle. How high does it come up, and by what speed?
If the noise you are hearing actually was lack of lubrication, it would already be dead.
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Post by expturbocoupe on Jun 3, 2018 10:55:24 GMT -5
Where are you,actually measuring oil pressure? If in head 10 psi warm is functionally plenty for idle. How high does it come up, and by what speed? If the noise you are hearing actually was lack of lubrication, it would already be dead. Oil pressure was taken from the same junction block that the oil pressure switch is on however I found the problem. I put the timing belt on a too tight. Not enough to do any damage because the timing belt tensioner was corrected and all noise is gone now. I put on about 100 more miles of tuning with VR live now and I can say the car runs so damn nice. A newer power stroke turbo diesel truck was playing with me on route 15. I downshifted to 3rd and we both went at it and I didn't expect to pull away so easily! I really thought he would have kept up at least since one of those beat my brother in his 2.2 liter shelby. Anyway I have been driving it and all I need to do now is find the information here that tells what sparkplugs and sparkplug gap is recommended for a 2.3 liter running 10-12 psi. Right now I am boosting about 7-8 and before I go to 10-12 psi I am going to change out my old autolight 5144 since they were used when the car was N/A. I think these are hotter plugs too. Thanks for the product again. The PIMPX is the best thing that has ever happened to my EXP. |
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Post by expturbocoupe on Jun 3, 2018 11:37:23 GMT -5
UPDATE
I found the spark plug info I needed on the FAQ post.
Motorcraft Autolite or NGK Copper only gapped at .032".
Getting the Autolite in about an hour. Looking forward to this.
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Post by expturbocoupe on Jun 4, 2018 9:13:25 GMT -5
Last night I tried the XR4Ti 2.3 Turbo copper plugs and my car did not like them. I did notice that the reach was shorter than the EXP's plugs but I gave it a shot. I started the car and it sounded like a WRX STi. I accelerated a bit and it was terrible. I went back to my Autolite 5144. I found that my 5144 are actually mid range heat. At which boost would cold plugs be needed? I am running 10 psi and the cold plug version is 5143. Should I stick with my copper 5144s?
Thanks!
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Post by Stinger on Jun 4, 2018 10:01:47 GMT -5
Best bet is to compare the heat range for your plugs and the 2.3T plugs to get an idea for how hot your stock plugs are.
If the plugs were too short to reach into the chamber then that would be the reason it ran bad. I'm not positive whether you meant the thread length was shorter, or just that the electrode/strap was shorter (which is normal for a colder plug).
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