Ford Mustang II Engine Bay Temperatures

[benvc]

My engine bay temps seem to run really high. I have a 2.3L out of an 88 Turbo coupe, and running it with the Pimpx. I have a problem where the engine bay seems to be overheating, my water temperatures on my gauge seem fine, so I believe it is exhaust related.

I have wrapped the downpipe up to the Turbo, and my wastegate vents into the downpipe. My Wideband shows I am running a little rich but not much, and I have a stock radiator with a 19" electric fan that pulls what feels like a ton of air.

I have no insulation on the hood but the hood gets to a point it is untouchable on the exhaust side of the engine, and even the fender is getting hot. I cannot feel any exhaust leak but there might be a small leak off of the wastegate (I can hear what might be a leak), would a small exhaust leak cause that much heat in the engine bay?

[Stinger]

An exhaust leak won't cause it. Radiant heat off of the turbo, exhaust manifold, etc. will put off way more heat than a little leak.

If ignition timing is off it will make WAY more heat than normal (manifold will glow orange from just normal driving, no boost for instance). Cam timing issues can cause some heat too, just not as much as ignition timing.

[benvc]

Sounds like it is ignition timing, is their a guide on tuning that to a good spot anywheres, or any advice? I am also going to be doing spark plugs and plan spark plugs at 25psi what gap would you recommend?

[Stinger]

Yes, the startup guide that came with the ECU tells you how to set base timing so it matches between laptop and engine. Then you run the base tune that comes with a timing table that's as good as you'll get without putting it on a dyno with a good understanding of how to tune timing on a dyno. You should also turn the boost down a few PSI if you're running 93 octane pump gas. For 91 octane you also pull 2-3 degrees from the timing map, as it says in the startup guide.

[benvc]

That sounds like it is the problem then, I will have to look and hope I kept that starter guide, if I didn’t is that available online or can I obtain another copy?

[Stinger]

The first step in the guide is the copy all of the files from it onto your laptop so I'd assume you have a copy of it. It's not available online as each ECU version # has a different guide associated with it and using the wrong guide causes problems. How to get one depends on what other things you didn't keep/lost/now need like jumpers for instance.

[benvc]

I got the files still, along with the original box and everything, I will borrow a timing light again and make sure everything is set up properly. I was looking over my tune and found that the Ignition Timing was set to fixed though, so I will definitely review that part of the guide before moving forwards. Thank you for the insight, I appreciate the quick replies as well!

Cheers

[Stinger]

Being set to fixed will cause additional heat as well. So I'd re-do/verify that entire section as you mentioned above. Be sure to set back to "use table" when done (as the guide says to do).

[bluestangii]

I have also had some issues with the hood getting hot on my II. So hot in fact that the paint started cracking right above the turbo. I just laid down some of that gold heat reflective tape on the underside of the hood. I would also do as Stinger suggested and check the timing to make sure you aren't creating any additional heat.

Are you running the stock turbo and manifold?

[firewheel56]

you may try looking into a turbo blanket thats what i had to do.if you do look at them good . i think ebay has them for about 50.00 look to see how they fitaround the turbo . the ones that have two springs and four clips fit the best springs on each side of four bolt exh. inlet .

[benvc]

Update:
Checked Timing it was set to 10, dead on.
Set timing to 'use table', it seems to be running cooler, but the turbo is still hot after around ten minutes of running. This was found at night, so the slight glow likely wasn't visible during the day.

Jul 24, 2019 22:41:55 GMT -5 firewheel56 said:

you may try looking into a turbo blanket thats what i had to do.if you do look at them good . i think ebay has them for about 50.00 look to see how they fitaround the turbo . the ones that have two springs and four clips fit the best springs on each side of four bolt exh. inlet .

I ran a cheap turbo blanket before, and found that they are actually very flamable at high temperatures. If you have experience with a certain blanket do you mind sharing a link, or brand?

[benvc]

Jul 24, 2019 9:41:09 GMT -5 bluestangii said:

I have also had some issues with the hood getting hot on my II. So hot in fact that the paint started cracking right above the turbo. I just laid down some of that gold heat reflective tape on the underside of the hood. I would also do as Stinger suggested and check the timing to make sure you aren't creating any additional heat.

Are you running the stock turbo and manifold?

I find my hood gets hot enough that my paint has slightly bubbled right above the turbo. I did check timing, all is well there now. I am running a GT3 with a larger compressor wheel. At the compressor wheel it measures 68mm, and I have tubular headers, my down pipe and waste gate piping is also head wrapped with titanium header wrap. I might pull the headers and wrap those as well.

[Stinger]

Wrapping the header will cause it to crack.

The turbo will be hot after running, that's the way it is. A slight glow after 10 minutes of driving is not abnormal to see at night. After a full pass I've seen them glow so bright that you can see it lighting up the ground below the car before the hood is even lifted.

If you've got a center mount header and a large turbo that puts the exhaust housing only a couple inches from the hood, and you don't have hood insulation then it can be too hot for the paint if ran hard. A steel heat shield for the turbo will protect the paint while not being flammable.

If following the directions, it should have been set to "fixed advance" and 20 deg, not 10. Ultimately it doesn't matter what timing value you use here, as long as whatever number is input in TunerStudio is what you look for on the timing light. So if yours was set to 10 and you saw 10 then you're good. If it was set to 20 and you saw 10 then it's way off. Note this is done with the spout plugged in.