Piggyback ecu

[beatrod]

So I have a center mount header, fmic, fpr, boost controller, la3, 3" dp and exhaust, and 255 FP on my car. I have some super 60 injectors I'd like to put to use and want to get a maf to ditch the VAM and a quarterhorse. I was wondering what exactly I need to get for the quarterhorse. The chip its self obviously, but then just the software and license? I have a second head and intake but haven't done anything with it yet, I'm still deciding weather to just get a bolt on boport head and do my own intake or send it to be ported, so that won't happen until I have the funds to fully commit to a decision. I'm figuring with what I have plus the injectors, MAF, and piggyback, I wiill HOPFULLY be right around 300hp without the head and intake, correct? I should also mention i have the inline intake and early cam(84 svo) on the car until I decide what route I'm going with my top end.

[Stinger]

You'll need to add up the cost of the QH, software, license, wideband, MAF, MAF connector/wiring, airflow straightener, and associated MAF flanges, adapters, and couplers/clamps to put it all together as most people find they are approaching PiMPx pricing at that point and the end result is not supported hardly at all anymore for this application, and it's far less capable, takes way more time to learn, way more time to tune, etc.

300hp at the crank maybe, certainly not at the wheels. Most stock head/cam/intake setups at "pump gas safe" boost levels end up somewhere in the 215-250hp range depending on fuel octane, cam condition, ring seal, valve seat seal, etc.

[beatrod]

Have wideband on it already. Im trying to stray away from the stand alone for as long as possible without hurting anything. I was kinda going off the list you had on the frequently asked questions saying everything before head/intake work would lead to about 250-275 and was figuring with the tunability, less restriction and if needed more flow would get me decently close to the 300 mark, maybe 275-280. I'm running 93 octane tho if that helps. And can always throw the 86 head and intake I have on for now. But if the tunability is really that messy I may be doing head/intakes before anything else. Which it needs done anyway so that's not so bad. Thanks for the help

[Stinger]

That's typically backwards of the advisable method of getting the "final" tuning system early on if you know you're going to eventually need it. That way you can learn to tune while it's still a lower power setup that's less difficult to kill, cheaper to fix if you do kill it, and you'll then be experienced with tuning by the time you need it (when you're trying to make 3-4hp/ci).

[beatrod]

Your very right! But this is a street car and I'd like to be able to tell my buddies its a stock computer turbo and long block from 1984 and know its true. I guess its a bit of a pride situation. I was just thinking that with the cone filter, adjustable boost controller, fmic, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and walbro 255, center mount header, and 3" dp and exhaust (with wideband although that doesnt do anything for power) on a 80 something thousand mile motor, I would be a bit closer to the 250 mark already. Guess my thinking was wrong! So head+intake is next.

[Stinger]

Put it on a dyno, only way to know for sure. At 22-23psi it might get to 250hp if you can get away with that much boost without detonation.