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CAS
Jun 6, 2022 13:30:59 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jun 6, 2022 13:30:59 GMT -5
I believe the main concern with the lower cover is to make sure the surface for the oil pan gasket matches the rear main where the gasket also goes. There are different versions for different years (cork vs rubber gasket).
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CAS
Jun 7, 2022 5:46:59 GMT -5
Post by wesk on Jun 7, 2022 5:46:59 GMT -5
The dual plug DIS models had conventional oil pumps, and had a dummy oil pump drive that bolted in place of the distributor (look for 89-94 Rangers).
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CAS
Jun 7, 2022 14:06:24 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by beatrod on Jun 7, 2022 14:06:24 GMT -5
Stinger, i honestly forgot about that change.. Seems the pan gasket was changed and grooves were gon by 86 but what i have in there now is an 84 svo motor.. I could be wrong, but if the grooves were gon by 86 and the crank position sensor wasnt added until 89 i think (hall type if im not mistaken) just at the top of the pulley not the side/bottom, then the side/bottom sensor(reluctor wheele type? I think that what theyre called) was added in 95, i HIGHLY doubt il find one of those to match.. And i would really rather use the later than the earlier. And wesk, as with the crank sensor, i would rather use the sensor on the pulley.. Since the distributors have problems sheering gears, wouldnt the cam position sens. have a similar problem? The sensor on the pulley would eliminate that possible catastrophe, right? I would think it would add just a tiny bit more accuracy as well since there wouldnt be any backlash in that drive gear setup to worry about. So if noone makes the brackets to adapt for the sensors i suppose i have no choice but to mill something out😂 so then my next question, when i make the brackets i will make then with slots so i can adjust to get the degree of the sensors closer to factory location.. Although i do believe the mega squirt and even your PIMPxs (if i decide to sell this and add money to it) would be able to adjust for where the location of TDC should be, correct? Weather its at the "dead spot" or not.. If i put the missing tooth at lets say 113°.. It will be able to adjust for where TDC is based on that.. are my thinkings close to right? And if the cam and aux pulley are half the rpm as the crank, then thats just an indicator for compression/power stroke vs intake/exhaust valve stroke.. As long as the cam sens is at the "bubble" at tdc, all should work accordingly.. No?
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CAS
Jun 7, 2022 22:01:33 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jun 7, 2022 22:01:33 GMT -5
If you're wanting to use the "smooth" style then I've seen people fill the grooves with JB Weld and sand it smooth.
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CAS
Jun 8, 2022 23:06:48 GMT -5
Post by wesk on Jun 8, 2022 23:06:48 GMT -5
Unless you are using the 95 and up "oil pump" block you have to have a gear drive the oil pump (whether it turns a distributor or a dummy shaft). All related problems still apply.
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CAS
Jun 9, 2022 22:55:17 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by beatrod on Jun 9, 2022 22:55:17 GMT -5
Not so sure i like the idea of jb welding on a street cars engine😂 i will see what i cant come up with.. I have a full 86 spare motor, so il worry about the front cover and oil pan and the pump when im making enough to justify building it. Thank you both!!! Always tons of help from you guys! Im going to try and see what i cant get figured out.. Im sure il be back before to long for knowledge and parts lol yal are always the first stop when looking for stuff! Only stop really😆
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CAS
Jun 9, 2022 23:09:54 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jun 9, 2022 23:09:54 GMT -5
People have done it without issue. It's not a stressed area, the jb weld is sandwiched between the cover, gasket, and pan and has ridges keeping it from moving in the other direction. Regardless, you don't have to do it if you don't feel comfortable doing it.
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