About to do first start. (TERRIFIED!!!!)

[dizzle]

My SVO is a total mess! It looks like a drunk bird made it's home in the engine compartment (wires, vacuum hoses, and lots of clutter).

Quick run down of the car:

Previous previous owner ragged it out. Then it got stolen. When recovered motor and trans were missing, all wiring was cut in half. After replacing with junk yard parts and splicing wires together, they got it running (How is a huge mystery!)
Sold it.

Previous owner let it sit for seven years. Sold it.

I managed to get it going enough to limp it home. Quick drive around the block for my wifes first ride in it, BAM!!! Input shaft sheered all the teeth off it and distributer. Junk yard motor #2 and here it sits for two years.... Bought a Wilson racing MS2, Turbonetics turbo and BOV, The Detail Zone wiring harness, and an Innovate LC1 with controller.

I have minimal experience with wiring and not much more with computer controlled anything. . . . How much trouble am i in? ???

[dizzle]

I completely missed the point of my post. I wanted to see if yall had any tunning tips for me or just any general start up tips. Thanks a million!

[Stinger]

Stock injectors?

[dizzle]

Yes sir. . . . I do have a set at the house (in tool box) that i dont know what size they are though. They have a green stripe around them.

[Stinger]

It should be a pretty basic startup assuming it's mechanically/electrically sound. The base file from Wilson should get you going. I wouldn't put the boost too high with the default timing map though.

[dizzle]

I hate to tell on my self but i dont even know how to turn up the boost. I am running a stock waste gate off the original turbo and no boost valve. . . . . I have been searching every chance i get to bring my knowledge up to date but there isnt much time in the day to learn (two full time jobs and a new born baby). I read these forums on your website and i am blown away by your knowledge! I would love to get the mechanical and especialy electronic know how to make this car run great. I have read the mega squirt 2 manual and the innovate mannual several times and they might as well have wrote them in spanish. Is there a Tunning for Dummies book?
Getting off subject slightly i dont even get the concept of "TOTAL" or "CAM" timing.

[Stinger]

Well, you're safe on boost for now then...shouldn't get any more than 10psi with that setup.

Most of the "for dummies" knowledge comes with time/experience. Same goes for the MS2 manual. It makes MUCH more sense once you actually start using the software and such. Fortunately a lot of the more in depth stuff doesn't need to be known by you unless you plan on building your own megasquirt.

Here, I just created a Megasquirt tuning guide for you:
stinger-performance.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=tune&thread=1002&page=1

[Stinger]

Jul 9, 2010 16:07:07 GMT -5 dizzle said:

Getting off subject slightly i dont even get the concept of "TOTAL" or "CAM" timing.

Total timing is how much ignition (spark) timing the engine is getting under max load and max rpm. If your base ignition timing is 10 degrees (stock) then when the computer ads timing advance, it will add a different amount of timing above the base timing setting dependent on load and rpm. The computer doesn't know where you have base setting set at so increasing or decreasing base timing also increases or decreases timing everywhere else (at all rpm and load cells).

Cam timing is independent of ignition timing. Cam timing controls when the valves open/close. If the cam timing is not correct, the valves will open too early (or late depending on which direction it is incorrectly set) and the air won't be pulled into the cylinder in sufficient amounts to run well.

[dizzle]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! This makes me breath a lot easier about the whole process. Much appreciated about the timing issue as well. I have felt like an idiot for a long time about that one, and was always to embarrassed to ask any one about it.

When i do get it up and running, is there a tell tale sign that i can be watching for (in tuner studios) to make sure my auxiliary shaft stays in one piece?

By the way, I saw the pics of your new shop. AWESOME!!!

[Stinger]

There isn't anything in TS that will tell you the aux gears are coming apart. Typically as long as a matching aux and distributor gear are used and are in good shape, it will stay together. If a mismatched set is used, it will come apart.

[dizzle]

Stinger, i found somthing on here about the com port not working for tuning the squirt. I cant find it again, but i am having the exact same problem.

[dizzle]

I found the thread that it was in. Denz was the guys name that you were speaking with. I posted a comment on that thread. If you by chance happen to see it before he does and have any ideas, i am all ears.

[Stinger]

You didn't really say "which" problem you are having. Denz had a few different issues he had to work through.

If you are just having a com-port issue, you need to change the com port your tuning software is expecting the ecu to be plugged into so it matches which port on the laptop it is actually plugged into. For it to work, you need the cable driver installed on the same com port as you plug the cable into and as the software is set to. I don't know which operating system or which tuning software you are using so I can't give specific instructions.

[dizzle]

I am running tunnerstudios on windows 7 if that helps.

[Stinger]

OK, do you have the driver I linked to in this thread downloaded and installed? If not, do it. Then, with the MS cable plugged in, go to control panel > device manager > serial com adapters (or something like that) and it will say prolific or PL2303 driver. Go to properties and see which com port it is installed on (com 1, com 2, com 3, etc.) Then go to tunerstudio, communications > settings > port and select the same port and click "test port". It should say successful and you are ready to go.