Well thanks for all the help so far. I'm at a loss, and would be much worse off without the knowledge of this board!
And you're right, it is not fun not running past 3k because I'm afraid to build any boost! I'll probably (hopefully) get that worked out by this weekend and make due with the idle problem until my light bulb comes on (or gets turned on by someone else).
So I applied 20psi to the "lower" air fitting on the wastegate. The one closest to the two flanges, and the air would only come out of the rubber hose I was using to make the connection. The flange on bottom of the wastegate did not open.
Mr. Barker, I need more pics. its amazing to see what you have done with that car. By the way (not sure if i told you this yet) the speakers were cut into the doors by the owner who we bought the car from.
The door covers and speakers are long gone now. It's close to completely stripped inside, other than front seats, center console and dash. I'm deciding what to do with the floor still... Being lazy is the real reason it's not done.
I'll get some more pics up soon, hopefully. Right now work is very busy for me and I've got a couple races coming up that I use all my free time to prepare for. So tinkering with the car is a challenge to say the least.
Be aware that there was a guy who gutted the interior of his car for weight reduction and didn't have any of the door panels or anything covered with sheetmetal. He was involved in a crash and was "cheese grated" from all of the sheet metal edges on all of the holes in the door and dash. Something to consider before planning on driving a stripped vehicle.
So I rechecked all the grounds from battery to engine block and starter, all were tight and on bare metal. Then Warmed the car up and started pulling hoses off the vacuum tree, each one pulled the idle got rougher and picked up a little, all about the same amount, and still have the rough idle. I was fingering around the VAM a little bit and noticed the green wire is exposed from it's insulation. Could that cause issue with idle if it's not sending a full signal?
Not sure what you were trying to accomplish with the vacuum test but all it tells you is that there is vacuum in the vacuum tree (as proven by the idle changing every time you pulled a hose). To check for vacuum leaks you need to watch the boost/vac gauge while pulling one line at a time. If you pull a line and plug the "leak" and the vacuum reads higher, there is a leak somewhere that line runs to and you need to plug it back in and move to the next junction in that line and re-do the test.
Insulation doesn't help a wire send a full signal. It just keeps it from shorting out.
I took the WG off last night and put air to it, watched it open fully and operate like it should. Then I took off the MBC just because, put air through that and it was working like it should. I have no way of measuring how much air is coming out the other side of the boost controller, but it "felt" like the same amount as I was putting in, leading me to believe it is wide open and letting as much air through as possible feeding the WG like it should.