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Post by bobbarker on Jul 9, 2011 13:39:28 GMT -5
I'll have to take some measurements and see if that will work. A guy on foureyedpride said he's run 15" wheels on an SVO with an 8.8 and hno clearance issues. I think he flipped the break calipers though, and is using a different brand of wheel.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 11, 2011 15:43:05 GMT -5
I'd just run a thin spacer between the wheel and the axle.
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Post by bobbarker on Jul 11, 2011 17:33:10 GMT -5
I already have a 1/8" spacer on back tires. A larger spacer would have the tires sticking out almost 3/4".
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Post by Stinger on Jul 11, 2011 22:21:12 GMT -5
How much have you ground off the calipers? I assume they are barely dragging since the car apparently rolls?
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Post by bobbarker on Jul 11, 2011 22:41:01 GMT -5
Yeah it just barely touches, and only on one side of each back wheel. I did not measure, but I took off enough for the top of the caliper to clear but not enough on the bottom. I don't know the name of the part/area of the caliper that's touching the rim but it's a sharp piece one at each end (top and bottom) of the calipers. It's in line with the curve of the main body of the caliper but comes to a point. I'll try to get a pic of it this week. I may be able to take more off, just don't want to. Maybe a picture will help you guys tell me if there is room for more grinding.
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Post by bobbarker on Jul 21, 2011 20:45:17 GMT -5
Stinger don't be mad! I ordered pipes from Summit, with access to a welder at work it was just the cheapest way I could do it and still have room for error if I measured wrong. I got exhaust pipes in for a DIY at home job. I don't really know how it's gonna sound, I hope good! New 4" diameter flex pipe, then a Y w/ cutout, couple 45* bends and the race bullet that I polished. I don't know if I want to mount it to where the muffler shows outside the car or not... Might be better tucked under some. And yes, it is propped up in place with my old turbo housings! I didn't have anything else to do with them. ;D I'll be on vacation next week so plan is to get it trimmed to fit, one of the last 45* pipes needs a few inches taken off for the muffler to clear the back tire, or if I leave it all under the car then I won't need to trim any and just get them welded, then put a couple hangars on there and it's set. If I leave it under the car then I think I can probably use the holes in the floor board from the rear seat mounts and seatbelts to put a hangar for the muffler, then I'll want to put one near the end of the flex pipe as well. I also have a 4ft section of 3"ID pipe so if I want to run it straight back to the rear axle it can be done.
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Post by 45vaquero on Jul 21, 2011 21:22:25 GMT -5
Lol. nice pipe stands. Lookin good
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Post by chriscurtin on Jul 22, 2011 14:11:43 GMT -5
What's the benefit of the flex tube? Is that because you are running a tube header or would it be useful for any turbo/manifold combination?
Thanks,
Chris
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Post by bobbarker on Jul 22, 2011 16:43:23 GMT -5
Flex pipe will help relieve stress on the turbo/downpipe/header assembly. It will absorb any bounce in the rest of the exhaust.
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Post by bobbarker on Aug 1, 2011 13:26:47 GMT -5
So I started the car this afternoon, after sitting for about 3 weeks because of the wheel clearance issues... I bought some basic 5 star wheels with nuts tires just to roll around on until I figure out what I'm gonna do with my brakes. Left it idling for less than 5 minutes and crawled under to test fit a few parts and saw there was a LOT of oil on the floor under the car, that wasn't there last time I parked it. It's clean oil at least, no milkyness... I think it's blowing out the crank breather, and far as I know that can only mean there is compression getting into the crank meaning a blown head gasket. It doesn't make any sense though, since it wasn't doing this on the last drive.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 1, 2011 14:15:36 GMT -5
I've never seen a breather blow nearly that much oil, even with a blown headgasket. That much oil would seem more likely to be a rear main seal or something like that.
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Post by bobbarker on Aug 1, 2011 14:31:12 GMT -5
damn. I'll have to look further into it. Have to wait until someone gets home to help me start it cause the battery is dead now...
If it's a rear main seal can I get to it with the engine still in place and just pull the transmission out?
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Post by 45vaquero on Aug 1, 2011 20:59:51 GMT -5
Yes you prob. can do the rear main, if you can jack it up to where you can physically fit. you oil feed lines, & oil psi lines tight?
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Post by bobbarker on Aug 1, 2011 21:10:22 GMT -5
The oil feed and drain lines were both dry at either end, but the oil feed line had a lot of oil on it where it comes close to the block near the back of the head where it wraps around, also the engine block ground cable that runs from the valve cover to the firewall was pretty saturated in oil. Most all the oil on the block is just above the starter and runs down from there to garage floor.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 1, 2011 23:06:29 GMT -5
You may have to spray the engine off the clean it so you can find "new" oil, then run it while looking for the leak with a flashlight.
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