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Post by adamt85 on Oct 25, 2011 19:18:40 GMT -5
Alright I have a wr2 cop unit that ive been running for a few days and the car drives somewhat ok untill it builds boost. there is no power at all under boost im not sure if its my ignition or fuel or both. its the base map from scott and ve live tuned it to where it is right now. and its a bitch to start especially when cold my mods are: stock cam (88xr) stock head 75lb delphi low z turbonetics t3/to4e 60-1 large fmic and water injection stock fuel pressure. lc-1
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Post by Stinger on Oct 25, 2011 22:59:15 GMT -5
Looks like it's a combo of both, though the fuel table is likely the largest culprit.
Looks like Scott is now sending out my old fuel table from a car I was tuning years ago as his "base tune" table. Not sure why he'd be sending a fuel table for an engine with a stage 3 head/cam to someone with a stock head/cam though. The fuel requirements are about 40% different and the peak hp/tq is about 2000 rpm different.
Have you read through our tuning guides at the top of this forum and used them to try and fix the problem?
What is your air/fuel ratio doing as it starts to build boost and then as it has "no power at all"?
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Post by adamt85 on Oct 25, 2011 23:08:27 GMT -5
Ya I've read them a few times. It goes into the mid 11's under boost and hits the 12's it usually all over in that area. It has no low end and ok mid then falls on its face. Do you have a good ignition and fuel map I can toss in and try? Thanks for the reply I haven't been able to get scott to answer my emails or calls. I can post up a data log aswell if needed.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 25, 2011 23:43:06 GMT -5
A datalog is always helpful.
There are fuel and timing maps posted in the tuning threads at the top of the forum.
Have you verified commanded timing = actual timing?
Does it appear to be misfiring when it falls on it's face? How much boost? Was the car running well before the ecu swap?
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Post by adamt85 on Oct 25, 2011 23:51:04 GMT -5
it doesent misfire unless im cruising and raise the throttle and hit about 10 in of vac then it bucks like crazy before or after its fine but right at 10 vac it acts up. ive ran it up to 18 psi and let off it just does not feel right at all. the car ran great before the swap fast as hell at 23psi daily for the last 4 months. ill check my commanded timing tomorrow and report back. i do not see where i can download the tables in the pinned section. my email is iridearedline860@gmail.com if you can send them there. that ignition map looks way more tame than what i am currently stuck with. same fore the fuel map.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 26, 2011 0:56:29 GMT -5
I'm still amazed WR sells these things and doesn't include any sort of documentation to tell you what you need to do to make sure you don't blow up your engine before you figure it out. I'm guessing you'll find your commanded timing doesn't equal actual (probably retarded significantly).
Sounds like your fuel table needs a lot of work. After you check the timing (note our timing tuning guide above has directions on how to do so...you said you read multiple times but I guess you didn't do the things mentioned in them yet) and after you post a datalog, we'll look into what you may need for a fuel table to get you quite a bit closer to start with. I'd imagine our stock fuel table would do it but we need to make sure there aren't other issues first.
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Post by adamt85 on Oct 27, 2011 2:47:49 GMT -5
It runs awsome now, the timing was at tdc. And my alt died on me about 3 blocks from my house. changed it out at midnight in freezing weather. Is my timing map too aggresive? ill work on my fuel map as it runs super rich under boost now 10.0
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2011 3:09:23 GMT -5
"I'm guessing you'll find your commanded timing doesn't equal actual (probably retarded significantly)." Looks like the assumption was correct. Glad to hear that fixed much of the issue.
Your timing map is better than they used to be but it's still commanding an additional 10 degrees at moderate boost levels (up to 15psi or so) which is very dangerous IMO. I'd suggest you run something closer to the picture I have posted in the timing sticky thread. You're probably being "saved" right now by the freezing cold air and super rich condition. Once it warms up and you lean it out, that much timing will cause detonation.
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Post by adamt85 on Oct 27, 2011 3:54:44 GMT -5
how does this table look? thanks for the help stinger.
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Post by adamt85 on Oct 27, 2011 22:32:20 GMT -5
tried that ignition today and it bucked like crazy and would not smooth out unless i had 0 vac or in light boost. I put the one scott gave me that i tamed down on the top end and it worked good. now ve live will not change any cells with the fuel table that im using?
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2011 23:05:26 GMT -5
There isn't any particular reason it would buck like crazy with either of those timing tables. It's much more likely to be a fuel issue causing the bucking. You could always try running your original timing table below 100% ign load and a safer timing map above 100% ign load though.
As for the VE live not changing the fuel table issue. You sure you don't have some sort of filter on it which isn't allowing it to work? This is in the VE Live tab and then under Advanced Settings. It's where you tell it not to work under 160 degrees coolant temp, min and max rpm, etc.
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Post by adamt85 on Nov 1, 2011 23:52:29 GMT -5
Alright I have most of the tuning taken care of. cold start is still a pain in the ass.. For some resaon I can not get it to idle at 1k it will idle around 1350 adjusting the idle screw does nothing how do I go about adjusting the idle and do I need to re calibrate the tps after adjusting the idle screw?
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Post by Stinger on Nov 2, 2011 0:07:47 GMT -5
You do need to calibrate the TPS if you adjust the idle screw.
If your WR kit has IAC idle control active (if it does, it should do a fast idle when cold until it warms up). If this is the case, open startup/idle > pwm idle duty cycle. Moving this line up/down at a given coolant temp will change the idle speed.
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Post by adamt85 on Dec 1, 2011 17:28:05 GMT -5
would the base injector guide in the pimp section apply to my ms2? after reading and checking my settings they where a ways off. I tried your guide today and the car seems to start easier and not backfire when cranking.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 1, 2011 18:08:55 GMT -5
They shouldn't correlate very well as we control the injectors differently than the wr setup.
What were the settings before, what did you change them to, and what injectors are they?
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