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Post by jeffeverly on Feb 9, 2009 1:48:24 GMT -5
Yes I'll try keep this as simple as possible. I have a 1991 Mustang LX with a 2.3 NA dual plug head motor with 5 speed, Which I am converting over to a 1986 2.3 turbo with a built c4.
My mods so far......
MOTOR...
1. Bottom end rebuild(just rering new bearing and oil pump,crower rods)
2. Upper intake gutted and rotated polished+ported
3. Lower intake polished+ported+knifed
4. Ranger roller cam etc
5. Head ported+polished=3 angle valve job etc etc
6. Frozen Boost Water/Air Intercooler kit
7. HOLSET HX35
8. Custom made fail rail with 46lbs injectors(need bigger i think)
9. PROCOMP Fuel pressure reg. for efi w/ boost ref
10. Walbro 255 intank pump
11. MSD 6AL box/ msd TFI coil
12. Essy adjustable square tooth cam gear
13. Essy pulleys
14. Dynotune EFI nitrous kit(wet)
15. Still collecting parts
CAR
1. 1991 mustang lx
2. Lots of weight reduction(back seat,sway bars ,converted to manual rack,scraped all the sound deaden off the floor,no ac,no emmission junk,etc
3. Process of body work
4.Summit race seats
5.RCI 5 way belts
6.Process of 8 point cage
7..Still collecting parts
TRANS
1. 1972 c4 from a ford maverick had a 302
2. Trans rebuilt by me with good parts from Broader Performance
C4 #9 Needle Bearing Kit
C4 Reverse Pattern Valve Body Kit
3. 2600rpm stall for pinto stock
4. 1975 c4 2.3 bellhousing for a pinto
5. B&M pro stick
6. Still collecting parts
REAR END AND SUSPENSION/FRAME
1. 1986 Thunderbird 7.5" w/3.55 and factory posi
2. Axle tubes welded better to housing
3. Ford Motorsports rear end cover with support
4. Process of 8 point cage
5. JEGS torque box plates
6. JEGS upper rear adjustable control arms
7. BBK sub frame conectors
8. LAKEWOOD traction bars adjustable(THANKS MATT CULLPEPPER)
9. LAKEWOOD 50/50 rear shocks
10. lower rear control arms are modified/boxed by dad
11. LAKEWOOD driveshaft safety loop
12. and yes still collecting parts again
My goals are get in the high 10's or low 11's I hope anyone with some input(STINGER,Matt Cullpepper) just let me know my list of stuff looks good or what do need to add.
I'm still up in the air with EMS to use leaning towards MEGASQUIRT 1. check my post in "EEC Tuning"
Have good day
jeffeverly"GHOSTDEVIL"
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Post by Stinger on Feb 9, 2009 14:31:57 GMT -5
Unless you plan on spraying it pretty hard with a larger than normal fuel jet, you will need larger injectors.
The Ranger cam isn't going to do you any favors.
I'd question the stock pinto converter's ability to reliably handle the power and work as desired.
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Post by jeffeverly on Feb 10, 2009 1:23:42 GMT -5
I have read Joe Morgans pinto setup many times. He uses a ranger roller cam. 150 shot of nitrous, I am not shore if his setup is "wet" or "dry". I'm basically going to use it out of the hole till the turbo is spooled for boost, I will using a rpm window switch to cut NOS on the use the ZEX boost control setup to cut it off when it reaches about 8 psi Im not sure how this going to work just guessing at how it might. The stall converter is  ? Im going use it the same converter Joe Morgan uses its stalls at 2600rpm its made by Pro-King its the same specs as Joe's but not the same brand. For the injectors Joe's setup was 35lbs from a TC and his EEC was from a 86 SVO , i will be running megasquirt so I guess I have ability to adjust everything the only thing he did was have the rpm limit rasied to 7000rpm in his setup. Im basically building my setup Of Joe's setup with a few upgrades you would say ;D I don't know how its going to work but Joe's car run best of 10.75 at 118 mph. |
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Post by Stinger on Feb 10, 2009 3:53:57 GMT -5
Take note that his car weighed a lot less than yours. It's also an antiquated setup so emulating it isn't exactly the best way.
I'd be willing to be the same setup in a Mustang like yours would only go 11.60's-11.80's at best.
Also, he was using the nitrous for power, you are using it to spool the turbo meaning you'll be making less power than he was. A 2 step will spool the turbo just fine, no need to use nitrous to do so. Also limiting yourself on injector size is puzzling when using megasquirt.
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Post by jeffeverly on Feb 10, 2009 22:18:48 GMT -5
Injector size the 46lbs where giving to me Stinger, I still confused with running bigger injectors I seen guys running 76,96, etc I have did some fuel injector calculations with some online programs.
One said I needed 76lbs inj. that was base horsepower of 450 then I did it with 350 hp it said I needed 46lbs inj.
Hell I be happy with 11.60's-11.80's with a 4cyl. Id be tickle to death with that. My s10 only ran 12.80 or so with a 383.
Yes Joe's car only weighted 2500lbs I think my car weighs close to 2600lbs or so right now thats with no motor or or trans and me.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 11, 2009 2:50:15 GMT -5
Those calculations are pretty close, 46's are actually 42's at stock 2.3T fuel pressure though which lowers that number a bit. You car is probably going to be 3000lbs or so plus driver unless you do some serious weight reduction.
You need to decide how much hp you want to make without nitrous and size your injectors accordingly. I suppose you'll need to decide if you are for sure only spraying off the line before deciding on how much power you need off nitrous.
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Post by Matt Culpepper 2300gearjammer on Feb 11, 2009 12:42:06 GMT -5
If you got aaaaall of the sound deadening stuff I'll say you'll be under 3000 with a driver. If I would have delivered the traction bars as we originally planned I could have show you what a 11.5-11.8 car feel like...minus the extra weight of passenger.
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Post by jeffeverly on Feb 12, 2009 1:10:22 GMT -5
Well to be honest I would like have 450 hp with NOS, lets say 350 without NOS, so. 46lbs injectors would be ok for a base line of 300 to 350 or so hp without NOS? ? My dynotune is "wet" system so I would not have to to big with injectors??? 46lbs should be in the ballpark (I guess?) Now with a "wet" system I have is adjustable from 35 to 150hp I would run the low setting just get used to it, then go up as time goes. I was thinking just spraying off the line with NOS,>>>What would be a safe setting?? Well I have gotten most of the sound deaden off lot work, I'm going with race weight hood pin on, I heard you can get rid of the "crash bumper" behind the front bumper cover. I'm going to drilling 1" holes in the doors behind the door panels, and few other things that I have been researching on for mustangs. As time goes I will get fiberglass fenders. But I dont want DRAG CAR, I want STREET CAR want be able to drive it pass VA inspections etc. thanks for the info jeff |
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Post by Stinger on Feb 12, 2009 3:06:47 GMT -5
46's will be fine for now, if you run out of fuel, you'll just need to upgrade. I still don't understand what you are trying to say though. You say you'd like to make 350hp without spray and 450hp with spray, but then you say you only want to spray off the line. Can you explain why you are wanting to do this? If you are only spraying off the line, you might as well throw all hp numbers while spraying out the window because you aren't going to be making 450hp off the line.
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Post by jeffeverly on Feb 12, 2009 23:18:30 GMT -5
Reason to spray off line I'm going to running a holset hx35. Im asuming there will some turbo lag. This is what I have read on running a hx35, I will be setting up the NOS to come on off the line and go off with boost switch made by ZEX, will also be using ZEX EFI Wet Management Box thats is controlled by the TPS.
350 hp is what I would like to have total w/o NOS, I do understand that I will not have 450 hp after the NOS is off.
I see what your saying about have 450 hp off the line. In less I come bat hell with trans brake off the line, but go with a trans brake I want need NOS.
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Post by Matt Culpepper 2300gearjammer on Feb 13, 2009 8:01:02 GMT -5
If and only if you have the cage in you can cut the safety beams out of the doors. they are worth 40lbs combined.
I say get a 2step on/working and try it all again. You'll need that even if you want to spray it or not.
I just noticed the transbrake comment...I would suggest a transbrake, 2step, and a 70shot. That will def get you out of the hole. I did some trick wiring that as you let go of the momentary button for the brake, it will flip a set of relays and as long as you are WOT the spray comes on.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 14, 2009 19:01:52 GMT -5
Can't he just build boost on the brake and not have to worry about spraying off the line to spool? Just use it as a power adder down the track....
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Post by Matt Culpepper 2300gearjammer on Feb 15, 2009 18:59:06 GMT -5
yeah i was refering to it as an adder def not a requirement
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23tstang
Boosting 5 psi
guy on left(imports/v8) guy on right(2.3t power)
Posts: 23
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Post by 23tstang on Apr 8, 2009 18:36:06 GMT -5
how much boost is my question? if your not running at least 22lb's dont run the hx35 it wont wake up till about 26lb's and loves 35-40lb's.
im building a boost block ford (BBF lol) for 40lb's and im running a 61mm turbo on my 91 lx. and it'll be gutted/ported intake and ported cammed head and bigger valves (all happening hopefully this summer) and will luck i'll run mid-low 10's
i would love to gut it and cage it, and run 9's but its my sunday driver/ dd (lol sorry to thread hizzor i just saw the 91 lx thing..)
...sorry
sounds nice man
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Post by gonyyankees02 on Apr 4, 2010 4:52:56 GMT -5
While your spending the money I'd ditch the ranger cam and go with a boport roller, just the stage 1.5 he claims a 40hp gain, and up to the 1.9 doesn't require any machine work to the head. Well worth the $375 to spend in my opinion, esp if you already have the parts for a roller. Anything Bo makes is top of the line and he stands behind it, not saying stinger doesn't because I'm running alot of his parts too on my bird and they are high quality but they both offer different products. Just my .02 www.bo-port.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=1 |
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? Im going use it the same converter Joe Morgan uses its stalls at 2600rpm its made by Pro-King its the same specs as Joe's but not the same brand.
