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Post by saleenssc14 on Mar 20, 2009 12:27:34 GMT -5
I am super excited that i got my project started... Thanks Shannon for all your help I appreciate it a lot... well heres my question.. when i start my car i have to have the VAM open about half way for the car to start or to even remain started. Any idea why this happens?
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Post by Stinger on Mar 21, 2009 15:45:23 GMT -5
You'll need to list the setup (specifically the ecu, injectors, and vam size) as well as other mods and a little background info as to what was changed since it last ran.
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Post by saleenssc14 on Mar 21, 2009 16:43:01 GMT -5
i am running the brown top injectors,la3, followed ur wiring instructions, 1985.5 svo engine rebuilt with t3 turbo, front mount intercooler,big VAM. The only changes i made since it last ran was just swap out the entire engine.
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Post by Stinger on Mar 22, 2009 22:12:48 GMT -5
Is the vam backwards?
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Post by saleenssc14 on Apr 2, 2009 12:49:16 GMT -5
No i looked at pictures of how it is and i am pretty sure i have it correct. I have the harness connector facing towards the stock battery location with the flap inside the VAM closest to the front bumper
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Post by Stinger on Apr 2, 2009 21:38:24 GMT -5
Flapper door should open towards turbo, not away. That's the best way to check.
Have you scanned for codes?
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Post by saleenssc14 on Apr 3, 2009 1:47:06 GMT -5
thats what i meant about the flapper... i do have a check engine light.. im going to learn how to do the cods and try it tomorrow, ill let u know
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Post by saleenssc14 on Apr 10, 2009 22:14:24 GMT -5
Ok I checked my codes today and I got the following codes: 68, 81, 82. Any help on how to solve these codes?
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Post by Stinger on Apr 13, 2009 0:49:58 GMT -5
68: VAT (air temp sensor in vam) out of range 81: BCS not connected (stock boost control solenoid) 82: EDF (cooling fan) signals short to ground
The first one is the only one that will cause the CE light to come on. If your vam wiring is correct, you'll need a new vam to fix that problem.
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Post by saleenssc14 on May 4, 2009 22:36:25 GMT -5
ok I installed a HKS BOV on my car now with a front mount intercooler. The problem is I cant hear it go off at all. Im thinking my turbo might not be working because my vacuum gauge is at 10 on idle and when i rev the engine up it goes to the boost but only to 0, so i am thinking that my wastegate is not working correctly because i have the gills manual boost control.
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Post by Stinger on May 5, 2009 0:55:18 GMT -5
You can't build much (if any) boost in neutral so the bov won't go off and the boost gauge won't show boost. You have to drive it to get boost.
How is the bov vacuum hose hooked up?
Vacuum at idle should be 18+ so you have some vacuum leaks you need to find and fix.
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Post by saleenssc14 on May 5, 2009 1:15:45 GMT -5
I hooked it up to the vacuum tree, but i talked to someonewith the same setup as me and they told me to t-it off of the vacuum line in the intake manifold. Ill take some pictures of the vaccum lines in my egine so maybe you can help me plug or connect. thanks again
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Post by Stinger on May 5, 2009 1:18:38 GMT -5
Odds are the leaks are just that...leaks. They aren't actually unhooked completely. We'll see after the pics though.
Are you actually driving the car or just revving in neutral?
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Post by saleenssc14 on May 5, 2009 20:51:52 GMT -5
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Post by Stinger on May 5, 2009 22:51:26 GMT -5
Well, I don't see anything that is unplugged and shouldn't be. You need to put clamps (or zip ties) on ALL of those vacuum connections and plugs though. They will all blow off under boost and you'll loose them all over the road.
To find vacuum leaks, you start the engine, have someone watch the vacuum gauge and then unplug one vacuum line off the vacuum tree and plug the tree and the line with your fingers. If the vacuum reading goes up, there is a leak somewhere in that line (or a line that "T"s off of it). It it makes no change, plug it back in and unplug a different line from the tree. Repeat on all line on vacuum tree and fix leaks until you have at least 17" vacuum.
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