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Post by p71mechanic on Jan 3, 2011 4:29:05 GMT -5
just joined,but dont know how to ask oranswer what im 'seeing' on here. never been on a forum b-4, little help, plz?? thanks...im new and green to this post, im LOST...help!?
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Post by p71mechanic on Jan 3, 2011 4:32:10 GMT -5
somebody help get me started here...i just joined, minutes ago, and already 'lost'! dont know 'how' only that i 'want' to get involved in 2.3t forum. im starting a'85 2.3t coupe swap into a '84 stang/vert...need advice and help...thanks guys. dont know 'where' to start on how to get on forum....
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Post by Stinger on Jan 3, 2011 4:34:06 GMT -5
Looks like you're on the forum to me...and you successfully posted twice. You can post the same way in any other thread.
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Post by apbeaman78 on Aug 13, 2011 20:16:42 GMT -5
I have an 86 coupe. I have a motor and wiring harness with ecu from 88tc. How do I wire the harness in. The tc harness weighs a ton. What do I dealt need off the harness and what can be taken away. What parts do I need to get this beast to run.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 13, 2011 23:36:59 GMT -5
There is a pre-87 turbo swap guide on turboford.net that should cover your questions.
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Post by alphaomega1822 on Nov 21, 2011 16:10:21 GMT -5
I'm looking at injectors and tryin to find one that is going to let me go between 15-30 lbs of boost if possible. Thinking of a 42 or 55, just dont know if it would be to much at lower boost. is there any formulas beside trial and erra to figure it out or get pretty close?
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Post by bobbarker on Nov 21, 2011 17:10:55 GMT -5
Stingers store web site lists different injectors, and next to each injector is lists what HP rating they will support. I would use that chart to decide.
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Post by Stinger on Nov 21, 2011 17:41:05 GMT -5
Yeah, the injectors don't care how much boost you are running. It's about how much power you're making at those boost levels. Remember you can run larger injectors than necessary without issue but too small is too small no matter what...and they are all the same price. Also remember 30psi (or even 25psi) isn't going to happen on pump gas.
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Post by bgpickle on Oct 5, 2013 23:03:21 GMT -5
Stinger what is the easiest/ best way to pull crank pulley? I need to change the seal and I cant find a way to get the pulley off. Thanks
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Post by Stinger on Oct 5, 2013 23:52:12 GMT -5
The pulley itself isn't pressed on so it should come off with little effort. If you're talking about the gear for the timing belt, short of the Ford service tool, there aren't many good options if it is stuck.
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Post by bgpickle on Oct 6, 2013 9:59:03 GMT -5
i got of the cog pulley off. i had to make a small finger for my slide hammer and gave it some small taps and it came off. it was put together with no oil under the gear so the gear rusted to the crank. polished the crank and the gear and now it slides on and off like it should! Thanks again for all that you do!!!!!
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Post by 84svounoh on Oct 26, 2013 11:05:40 GMT -5
I have a 84 SVO and yesterday I went to go and adjust my tps but I could not find it. It was not in the same place as the picture shown.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2013 22:31:47 GMT -5
All TPS sensors on 2.3T engines are on the back of the throttle body and in line with the throttle shaft. They can look different than pictured but that's where they are all located.
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Post by 84svounoh on Oct 28, 2013 14:12:29 GMT -5
Thank you
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Post by phils85svo on Dec 2, 2014 20:28:13 GMT -5
Quick question, I have done this LA3 swap in my 85 SVO. It runs well and when I do a code scan, I get the expected results. My question is about pins 3 and 6 for the VSS. For these 87-88 tbirds, what was the VSS used for? I did not wire these up in my swap. I think in other EEC-IV cars of the same time frame, the VSS told the computer the speed of the car so that if you pushed in the clutch, the RPM would not fall and possibly stall while at speed. Currently, that is what my car does. It idles fine, and I have already tried multiple IAC's, but say you are going 45 mph, and push in the clutch, sometimes, well, alot of the time, then RPM's will drop and sometimes stall the engine. Would adding a VSS and wiring it up to the LA3 in my SVO help prevent this? To add to this, when doing a turbo swap with an 87-88 auto ecu and an A4LD trans, here is the additional wiring for the auto trans: Pin 37/57 (VPWR) provides power (+) to the 3/4 shift solenoid and the converter lockup solenoid. Pin 34 (3/4 shift) When the computer grounds this pin, the 3/4 shift is enabled provided that the transmission speed is sufficient to use overdrive. Pin 53 (CCO) When the computer grounds this pin, torque converter clutch is allowed to lock up. To prevent a rough feel, the coverter lockup is inhibited at certain speed upshifts and downshifts, brake on, cold engine, etc. The above three connections terminate at a single 3 contact connector mounted on the transmission. Pin 3 (VSSDIF+) One terminal of the vehicle speed sensor. Pin 6 (VSSDIF-) Other terminal of the vehicle speed sensor. The two connections above terminate at the two terminal connector of the vehicle speed sensor mounted on the transmission at the conventional speedo cable location. So, that should be pretty straightforward wiring it up. Looking at the Ford manual for the A4LD and the wiring diagrams, it appears that having all this unhooked would just result in a 3 speed automatic (no overdrived, no lockup clutch on the torque converter.) So unless the transmission has some preexisting problem I wouldn't think it would cause any problems to operate it disconnected. But for best fuel economy and to lower overall engine RPMs most of us would like to have it all fully functional as intended. Furthermore, the service manual refers to the solenoids and computer as a means to override (via the computer) the otherwise mechanical 3/4 shift and converter lockup. So, if you just grounded the two solenoid terminals on the transmission and hooked VPWR to the common terminal on the transmission you would get 3/4 shift all the time and converter lockup all the time. In other words, leaving the computer out of the picture would give you a purely mechanical 3/4 shift and a converter locked all the time. (That would be a pretty rough shifting transmission. The computer is needed to negotiate smooth 3/4 shifting and converter lockup.) If you did want to "manually" control the 3/4 shift and lockup you could hookup the VPWR to the trans and then have two separate toggle switches to ground the solenoids leaving computer pins 34 and 53 disconnected. You could then manually control overdrive and converter lockup but it would take a lot of manual switch flipping to approach a smooth ride...
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