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Post by Stinger on Nov 23, 2014 15:26:24 GMT -5
That's the unfortunate part of used turbos, sometimes stuff like this happens. With the clamp off, you should be able to remove the housing completely if necessary, at which point you can wire wheel the surfaces and put it back together in the correct position. Just make sure it is removed evenly all the way around, not hammered off from one side where it will get out of alignment and damage the exhaust wheel.
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Post by the88bird on Nov 23, 2014 16:47:05 GMT -5
I can spin the turbine housing with the middle part(CHRA). But I cannot get it to spin separately thats all I need. I can get it about a 1/16" all the way around and I can see the inside but it wont budge or come off
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Post by Stinger on Nov 23, 2014 19:39:04 GMT -5
Hmm, you may have to Google a bit to see if there are any "tricks" to it. If there aren't, you may need to add some heat to the equation.
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Post by the88bird on Dec 24, 2014 15:19:47 GMT -5
Ok so now I have an issue with the oil cooling lines (I believe) right next to the valve cover. I am just wondering if I am able to run them uphill or not? There are 2 lines. One that comes from the water pump and one that comes from where the thermostat is. The one from the water pump goes into the heater core and then back out and to the oil. The other one I think is the return. I am trying to re-run these because the turbo is too close to the valve cover and they will not fit. I am thinking about running the one from the water pump around on the fender but the return one I was thinking about going over the valve cover. I'm not sure if the return will have enough pressure to go uphill?
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Post by Stinger on Dec 28, 2014 23:00:53 GMT -5
They are simply coolant lines. Ideally you'd run them both together. The highest point in the coolant system needs to be the radiator cap, otherwise the probability of an air lock goes way up. There is plenty of pressure to push the coolant 10ft in the air if you want to so that's of no concern.
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