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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 26, 2009 18:05:47 GMT -5
i was thinking about using one of these piggy backs to tune the fuel curve with instead of an adj fpr because you can smoothe out the curve at different rpms. anyone ever use one of these? or would it be a better idea to just use the fpr? im going to be running a blow thru setup, stock ihi turbo, bob log, ranger roller, greddy fmic, and an open 3" dp and a 3" intake tube with a k/n on it, and a kirban fpr. the car is an 88 t/c with the la3, brown tops, and walboro already in it. stock turbo, and gillis set at 17-18 psi. any help or ciriticism is welcome  . |
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Post by Stinger on Jul 27, 2009 13:40:17 GMT -5
Your vam is going to be pegged wide open by 3500rpm or so which means you won't be able to adjust the curve beyond that rpm because once the it is maxed out, you can't adjust it an further.
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 27, 2009 21:43:30 GMT -5
cant i pop the cover off and play with the screw/spring in there so that the door doesnt slam open at that rpm? i read somewhere that if i tighten the screw down the door wont open all the way until maximum load. ill see if i can find the link.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 28, 2009 0:33:50 GMT -5
You can if you want to restrict the flow that much. Completely defeats the purpose of the blow through vam (limiting restriction) by actually creating more restriction via spring pressure on the door than would result from the stock configuration.
Think about how it works...it takes airflow to push against the spring and open it. Adding spring pressure means it takes more airflow getting "backed up" behind the door to push it open.
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 28, 2009 13:55:55 GMT -5
this makes sense to me. i was aiming for the most consistant fuel curve possible, but i suppose this is hard to get with the air meter there. no worries though i will make it work as best i can. thanks for your help!
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Post by Stinger on Jul 28, 2009 14:05:28 GMT -5
Just spend $100 bux on a tunable chip that is actually made to work on these cars and you can tune whatever you want (fuel, timing, rev limiter, injector size, etc.).
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 28, 2009 18:41:52 GMT -5
i would, but i dont understand the programs for tuning well enough to use them. im still learning those. they are a lot different than honda programs are.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 28, 2009 23:18:14 GMT -5
Moates makes the Hondata so it can't be that much different.
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 29, 2009 1:40:27 GMT -5
theyre different in that hondas are metered via a map sensor. so at different amounts of vacuum and rpm there are tuning points for both fuel and timing. they are controlled via a spread sheet. hence the larger the number the more of whatever you get. its pretty simple. i downloaded the binary editor and the eec editor, and im still trying to figure it out. there are some online tutorials i need to read, and im still getting to know the air meter system on the 2.3. t. if i were to use the chip a maf conversion would be a must!
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Post by Stinger on Jul 29, 2009 2:59:06 GMT -5
Maf for sure...the tuning isn't as different as you think it is though. Timing and fuel tables are the same. Only instead of tuning a VE table for map, you tune a maf transfer function (flow vs voltage).
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 29, 2009 9:43:42 GMT -5
im sure once i figure the programs out it would be a snap. ive tuned a few boosted hondas before so im not a stranger to how it works with a turbo. my question is, would i be able to get the numbers you estimated without the chip? for example if i were to just tune the fuel pressure and add timing to it via the distributor would the numbers be close? i know with the chip its a much more detailed tune for sure. there is definately something to be said for stock ecu's on turbo cars though.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 29, 2009 11:19:58 GMT -5
Yes, those numbers are doable with the stock ecu and the limited tuning available with fuel pressure and such. It will just go pig rich at boost onset and then lean out as rpm increases.
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 29, 2009 15:22:52 GMT -5
so that being said, my job is to adjust fuel pressure so that it does not go above my desired afr. which would be 12:1 MAX MAX MAX! any idea what i can set my distributor to for timing that is safe? i was thinking 12* with the knock unplugged, but some ppl claim to be running their timing in the twenties! im not sure if its tuned that way via a chip or at the distributor. also, if i were to get an adj cam gear, with my small turbo would it do me any good to adjust it on the dyno, or should i not even waste the money and leave er straight up?
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Post by Stinger on Jul 29, 2009 16:55:01 GMT -5
You can play with cam timing if you want, the RR and -4 will give you some more high rpm power but take away some torque down low. Just depends what you prefer. I'd suggest doing that before messing with the fuel pressure though as the cam timing will affect the a/f ratio.
12:1 afr is fine. 10 degrees base timing will give you about 25 degrees total with advance at 6000rpm. This is plenty of timing, I only run total timing in the low 20's on my SVO. Those who run 20+ degrees base timing are killing power because the timing is far from optimal and is also hard on rod bearings.
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Post by sleepinsol on Jul 29, 2009 20:41:12 GMT -5
yes ive heard that retarding the gear will give some top end power, but with the tiny ihi turbo i dont see spinning the motor past 5500 rpm. the thing just dies off up there. i guess ill have to play with it before i decide how far i can spin the motor. chances are though that that tiny turbo wont spin much past that though  . |
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