I'm new to this. I just bought a MS2 Extra PCB 3,57 for my 5.0 Mustang. I'm using TFI ignition and my engine is working fine with my PMS and siemens 80's actually, so I know it's not a mecanical problem. I hook up the MS and download their base tune. Did all basic stuff like change the constant for my injectors and engine CID, calibrate sensors, battery voltage and wideband. I've fixed the timing to 10 degrees. Everything else remains untouched in the tune.
When cold, the engine crank and starts very easy and goes straight around 1800 RPM. Probably because of the Idle Control (Warm Up). The problem is the engine can't keep the RPM stable. It will goes up (1834 approx) and down (1638 approx). The AFR was rich so I've leant it a bit to be around 13.0 AFR but the engine doesnt runs right. I've tried leaner (16.0) and doesnt fix the issue and going 2 squirts, the engine died. I would like to have some help if possible to guide on Something I probably forgot.
I've attached tune and datalog to maybe help you to help me!
Last Edit: Sept 26, 2016 21:15:19 GMT -5 by martroy
Have you contacted the vendor you purchased the ECU from for help?
Why did you leave timing fixed at 10 degrees?
Batch fire and 4 squirts per cycle isn't really expected to work. Your injector pulse width is only 1.4ms right now and will only be lower once your idle rpm is cut in half. Injectors can't open/close that fast so it's not going to work properly with that setting. You need to drop it to 2 squirts alternating or 1 squirt simultaneous. This will change how it runs since you're currently trying to tune "around" an improper setting that's negatively effecting how it runs.
Is your injector dead time setting what they suggest for your injectors?
Your idle control type (PWM Warmup) means the warm idle speed is controlled by the throttle screw. You need to turn down your idle screw so your idle speed will be correct when warm. You'll have to recalibrate the TPS after doing this since it changes the closed throttle (0% TPS) position).
Your timing table leaves a lot to be desired. Too much timing at WOT (unless you've got stock heads), no "idle saver" timing at idle, etc.
Because I bought it used, I havent contact the guy who sold it to me.
I leave the timing fixed to 10 degrees just to fix one thing at the time, that way I know it wont be timing related. As for squirts, I havent change what was in the Mustang base tune so I tought it will be fine. Injector deadtime too, havent changed it. I was looking for numbers for Siemens 80's High impedance Long style but havent found yet (http://www.siemensdekafuelinjectors.com/80-lb-hr-siemens-deka-fuel-injector-high-impedance-long-style-ev1-connector/). Do you have some I could give a try with battery correction?
Idle control, the its working right now is the IAC that maintain that high idle because if I unplugged the IAC or change Reversed valve 100% in Idle control, the engine died. Like said earlier, the same engine with same settings works fine with A9L and PMS hook up, that means throttle screw should be fine?
Timing table, havent change yet (Base tune) because I want to make it idle right first.
Last Edit: Sept 22, 2016 22:31:09 GMT -5 by martroy
If you're going to fix timing and try to tune other things for a while, fix it at 20 degrees, not 10. 10 produces a lot of heat and makes the engine run poor relative to 20 degrees (which is near the "right" idle timing). With that said, I don't think this fixed method is necessary.
We use 0.7 for dead time with those injectors with our ECU's.
What it did with the stock ECU has nothing to do with what it does now. They ECU's share no hardware, the strategies are different, etc. The ONLY thing you can compare from one to the other is that if it has spark and fuel with the stock one, it should also have spark and fuel with the MS2. The stock ECU used a completely different idle strategy for controlling the IAC. If you want it to idle at 1800 rpm then leave it alone. If you want it to idle at a normal RPM then you need to do it like I said. You set warm idle via the screw and use the PWM warmup table to control the RPM it idles at as it warms up at different temps, then that shuts off once it's warm. The other option is to switch to closed loop idle but this is much more difficult to dial in (though the end result is best also). So at least for now, PWM Warmup is what you should use, if you use it properly.
I've listen what you told me and give a try with 2 squirt, fixed timing to 20 and 0,7 of deadtime and that did the trick. Now, I'm wondering why I have a battery voltage fluctuation. Here's log and tune, tell me what you think of that?
Last Edit: Sept 26, 2016 21:14:54 GMT -5 by martroy
Have you measured alternator output voltage to verify it's not actually doing what it shows in the log? People often find problems they didn't know existed once they are able to datalog and see stuff like this. Just trying to see if that's the case here or not.
Havent yet. Will do. I've noticed that voltage in TunerStudio is not the one measured at the battery. Almost 0,50V less in TS. About deadtime value, is there any way I could be sure its the right number ? For sure, it's better than before but wondering. Is 0,20 battery correction is enought? Is there a rule of thumbs?
Last Edit: Sept 26, 2016 21:14:20 GMT -5 by martroy
A voltage difference is normal. That's resistance/losses in the wiring and such between battery and ECU.
The easiest way to tell if deadtime is in the ballpark is to look at your VE table values at idle. If your idle speed is correct (800-1000rpm) your VE values should be in the 40-65 range. If they are, dead time is pretty close.
I just dont where to look at first. Ecu is grounded in the kick panel. I have 2 engine ground strap. Behind head and passenger sude to timing cover. 0 gauge from the negative battery (trunk)to timing cover and negative battery to trunk (chassi).