toddwk
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 45
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Post by toddwk on Feb 2, 2018 19:31:05 GMT -5
i've done everything to this car but fix it. New PIP,ignition module,cap rotor,wires,plugs all motorcraft that was available. previously though this forum i thought i fixed it once and for all but it was short lived. no boost leaks, plugs set at .028 installed stinger boost controller left factory one plugged in, set to stop in the yellow on factory gauge. so like 17psi. double checked it with aftermartket gauge. pulls vac correctly as well. timing set dead on.nothing but premium fuel. i've replaced the fuel filter, wiggle test all wires around distributor. fuel pressure checked good, no play in dist shaft.no codes. runs worse when i unplug pip connector as it should. Car shutters real bad after shift,does not stop till i let off the throttle quite a bit.once it catches up it will start to pull and then fall flat at 4200 rpm and will not go higher. gauge is holding steady at 17 psi while this is happening. Took it to a local shop. they feel and see exactly what i do and have no answers other than buy another factory boost controller and hook it back up. good luck finding one of those!! and still it wouldn't make sense... to my knowledge the computer and factory boost controller dont talk to each other to determine boost and fuel delivery.at least that is my understanding. Also its pretty common to put on aftermarket boost controllers. i dont see a bunch of threads about cars running worse after. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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Post by Stinger on Feb 2, 2018 22:28:16 GMT -5
Looks like removing the intercooler and putting it back on previously fixed the problem. This almost certainly means it did have a boost leak that leaked during the pressure test, it just wasn't noticed during the boost test. I'd certainly start there again. It's possible the stock couplers are worn out and keep slipping off and you need new ones with better clamps to handle the elevated boost.
What happens if you turn boost down to 10psi?
Will it rev above 5000rpm in neutral?
What happens if you unhook the wastegate arm so you get basically not boost?
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toddwk
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 45
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Post by toddwk on Feb 4, 2018 12:40:08 GMT -5
Ok, i turned the boost down to 12psi and the shutter went away.It now will rev to 4700rpm under a load before it flattens out. however it will rev to 5000k plus in neutral.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 4, 2018 13:05:22 GMT -5
The fuel pressure test you did, was it while driving at full boost or was it just at idle?
Is the knock sensor plugged in?
What happens if you switch the octane switch to regular (if your car has one).
When it "flattens out", does it sound like it is misfiring or does it just stop accelerating but sound normal?
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toddwk
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 45
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Post by toddwk on Feb 4, 2018 21:10:00 GMT -5
Switching from premium doesn’t change anything. I tested fuel pressure at idle and boost. When it happens it feels like it’s missing and rumbles the whole car. It feels like a car that has no timing advance. Knock sensor plugged in and no codes. Bringing it down to 12 psi helped a lot when it was warm. when starting today and driving it shuttered just as bad until I got really warm. Drove through my neighborhood pulled onto the highway under normal acceleration shuttered bad after shifting to second then third. I have let off the throttle quite a bit to make it stop. I noticed the boost needle flutters along with it.
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Post by Stinger on Feb 5, 2018 0:55:57 GMT -5
Try unplugging the knock sensor for one test pull at low boost. Don't leave it unplugged if it doesn't "fix" the issue.
Stock valve springs?
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toddwk
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 45
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Post by toddwk on Feb 5, 2018 16:10:34 GMT -5
Unplugged knock sensor, (standing at drivers fender,right side bottom of intake?) No change... dont know about valve springs. I drove it this morning. steady driving speed, any moderate throttle would cause it to happen bad. i have to let up to make it stop. after it got very warm it would stop for the most part yet still wont rev above 4700 rpm and flatten out. possible clue- early on i took this thing to a Ford dealership. they said the distributor was 180 out. however the dist cap has a " 1 " on it. It doesnt go to plug wire #1 ?? dont know if any of it matters. i thought of that thinking about how this shutter feels like the firing order is wrong or there is no advance.
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toddwk
Boosting 10 psi
Posts: 45
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Post by toddwk on Feb 6, 2018 11:38:03 GMT -5
Is it possible the timing is out of whack somewhere? Does the distributor turn clockwise? Any other ideas? As far as the springs, I doubt it, unless there was a repair made. Are valves self adjusting?
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Post by Stinger on Feb 6, 2018 14:12:23 GMT -5
The rotation of the distributor and location of #1 wire on the cap doesn't matter as long as the #1 wire is where the rotor points when the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. Double checking firing order, ignition timing, and cam timing is certainly important.
It spins clockwise, 1-3-4-2.
Valves are self adjusting but if the springs are worn out it will limit RPM. The way to test this is the run it up to the RPM limit you're having, then push in the clutch and see if it idles normally immediately after high RPM, or if it sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders and tries to stall (or does stall). If it stalls, it will be hard to start initially.
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Post by vwtech86svo on Feb 11, 2018 18:00:50 GMT -5
Idk if it’s any help, but, I’ve ran into this EXACT problem multiple times. All years apart. First time a new ignition module fixed it. Year later it was a head gasket, 3rd time was recently. Replaced the distributor and module. No luck. Replaced and gapped plugs. No luck. All my pressures where good. Ran new ground wires to the head and block from the battery and replaced the plug wires and it went away and hasn’t come back in a year or more.
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