HP Estimate

[tyler]

Hello, looking to see if anyone could give a rough estimate based off of the following information, I will find out eventually when I get it running, just curious.
-Block/head:Honed block, deck skim cut, polished crank, chamfered oil holes, leading edge of counterweights radius-ed and balanced, new stock cam, balanced pistons with ceramic coating and molybdeuimdisulfide on the skirts, total seal gapless rings or ductile iron top ring with moly faced second ring (don't remember which), stock rods with beams ground smooth and shot peened and magnafluxed, arp rod bolts, resized and rebalanced, three angle valve job on the head, valves back ground and polished, combustion chambers smoothed and "cc"d, bowls blended, ports matched to intake and exhaust manifolds, new water and oil pump.
-Lightened and resurfaced flywheel.
-Gutted and ported upper and lower intake head ported to match.
-stinger style center mount header
-stinger intercooler kit
-stinger blow off valve and wastegate
-hx35 and .82 housing
-pimpx ecu
-msd 6al2
-exhaust will consist of the downpipe exiting behind the front right wheel
-60lb high impedance injectors
-255 walbro fuel pump
I realize it will be a rough estimate, but anything is appreciated! Thank you

[Stinger]

Missing some key details that have a huge effect on power...

Fuel octane?

Max boost?

I see a few corks in the system that will cost power, parts that aren't well matched to each other, mods that won't improve anything but cost you money, etc., but what's done is done in that regard so we'll concentrate on power once the questions above are answered.

[tyler]

93 octane and max boost will be determined when I start it up and begin tuning. What issues do you see of things not matching up?

[Stinger]

Stock cam and Holset aren't a good match as the cam is done by 5000 rpm and the turbo isn't spooled up fully until almost 4000 rpm so you get a narrow power band. Intake porting is also for higher RPM (it's fine with stock cam but better with aftermarket cam).

Stock cam will cost you quite a bit of power.

Head porting gains come from the pocket of the port behind the valve and around the valve stem (and in the chamber), not out near the manifolds so port matching only will actually hurt power.

Gapless rings are problematic on high boost engines.

The ARP rod bolts won't help anything as those only make the rods handle higher RPM but the cam won't allow high RPM anyway (and the rods break from compression, not from getting yanked on from RPM).

A better cam would fix most of the issues. Professional head porting would pick up 60-80hp.

You should be limited to low 20's boost and I'd say you'll make something like 240-275hp.

[tyler]

Cam was definitely next on the list after I get it running. For a drop in cam with no additonal work, would the boport 1.5 or 1.9 work? Thank you for the tips

[Stinger]

1.5 is better in most cases. The 1.9 really needs more lift to work best (which is what the 2.x cams are for).

On the other hand a ported head and stage 3 cam is a 100hp bolt on (and the 2.5 is completely street friendly and isn't far behind in power).

[tyler]

One more question. Based on my current modifications, are there another drop-in cam you would suggest besides the 1.5 or 1.9? Other brands, etc. The car will only see average speeds of about 45mph around town, occasional highway, and at the track. Thank you!

[Stinger]

Drop in cams are a compromise to begin with and there isn't one better than the 1.5 IMO.