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Post by 94boostedranger on May 7, 2020 1:00:31 GMT -5
Okay so this is the second of my two threads. My problem is I just got done putting a new motor in the ranger. everything is aftermarket on it I can list anything you ask but there's too much to list just randomly. I'm running a pimpx andjust recently got to the startup guide and have been running it for about a week. I started it up yesterday morning and let it idle in the driveway for about 5 minutes. At which time I got in and started to go down the road being gentle with it. Halfway down the road it started to nosedive and acted like it had an engine brake. I tried starting it a couple times and it would barely stay running if I kept my foot in it. Turn it back to the house. Found number for lifter seized extended. Replace the lifters with anti pump up comp lifters. Started it back up and found that I have zero oil pressure. I should mention that this engine originally was a distributor engine and I remove the distributor and converted it to electronic ignition with no distributor. Any help is much appreciated thank you
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Post by Stinger on May 7, 2020 2:36:10 GMT -5
First you gotta confirm whether it's an actual oil pressure issue or a gauge/sender issue.
If confirmed to be oil pressure, turn the oil pump drive with a drill and see if it's pumping oil or not. It should pump enough oil to overflow the old distributor hole if you run the drill full speed.
If it doesn't pump oil, you know it's coming apart to figure out why.
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Post by 94boostedranger on May 14, 2020 4:01:18 GMT -5
Okay so I figured out what the problem was. And thank you for your response. before I read the response I happen to do exactly what you suggested and as soon as I pulled the plug with the champion gear in it that plugs off the old distributor hole I found it. The gear on the shaft that drives the oil pump was completely chewed up and there was very little bit of teeth left. So from what I can surmise the reason it kept nose-diving and was so hard to keep running was because it was trying to seize up on me due to a lack of oil pressure. one thing I can't figure out though is why it happened in the first place. Brand new engine. Brand new oil. The auxiliary shaft is an after-market one that is supposed to be stronger and has a removable gear at the end of it so that if anything happens only the gear at the end of it needs replaced instead of having to replace the entire exhaust shaft. I don't remember if I listed what all I'm working with vehicle/engine wise, but it's a 94 Ranger with a 1988 2.3T turbo t-bird engine in it. The engine has been modified heavily. It has an Elgin racing cam, fully ported and polished head with oversized stainless steel valves and titanium keepers, fully ported and knife-edged upper and lower intake, wiseco low compression forged pistons, billet rods, ARP head studs, ARP rod bolts, Comp super H triple ceramic ball bearing turbo (flows enough to make 650 horsepower), 65 lb injectors, stage 5 clutch with ultra-light flywheel, stinger pimp x PCM, front mount intercooler, vane meter deleted, EGR deleted, full 3in exhaust, anti pump up lifters from Comp, t5 world-class Borg Warner transmission, the crankshaft is also balanced within 1 gram at 10,000 RPM, I also installed a windage tray, and there is also an underdrive pulley installed on the alternator, no a/c, no power steering, I'm sure there's more but I don't recall right now what else there is. So what do you think could have caused the teeth to get eaten up on the shaft that drives the oil pump and the gear that's on the auxiliary shaft that meshes with that gear?
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Post by Stinger on May 14, 2020 4:27:12 GMT -5
Was it a new distributor gear as well?
What's the oil pump part number? The high volume/high pressure versions overload the gear.
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Post by 94boostedranger on May 15, 2020 8:19:00 GMT -5
Yes it was a new distributor gear as well. The high volume/pressure oil pump is a Melling. Sorry I don't have the part = available right now.
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Post by Stinger on May 15, 2020 14:04:55 GMT -5
So it is a high volume/pressure pump or it was stock replacement (M86 or M127)?
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Post by 94boostedranger on May 17, 2020 3:03:04 GMT -5
Yes it is a high volume/high pressure oil pump. Not sure what caused the gear to Shear off other than the fact that it is a high volume high pressure oil pump from melling. I went to the wrecking yard and pulled out two of the gears and shafts that they are on that go into the old distributor hole. I picked the best one and put it in after I drilled out the roll pin hole to the next size bigger and did an oil & filter change while using a magnet through the drain hole to locate any and all metal Parts down in the bottom of the pan from the two gears, and then I also replaced the auxiliary shaft which was an after-market one as said earlier, and replaced it with a factory auxiliary shaft. I hope it doesn't happen again. So far so good. I've been driving it for a day and a half and have no issues as of yet. Any thoughts?
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Post by Stinger on May 17, 2020 13:43:36 GMT -5
The high volume/high pressure pump is known to cause gears to shear off, that's why I asked if that's what you were running. The stock pump is sufficient for all applications. The HV/HP pump is just harder to spin so it overloads the gears.
You certainly did some damage to the bearings but it's up to you whether you take a look at them while you're replacing the oil pump and cleaning out any residual shavings. I'd likely do another oil filter change and wipe out the bottom of the pan while it's apart as well.
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Post by 94boostedranger on May 20, 2020 20:37:09 GMT -5
Thank you. I did just that. I ran it for a few days and then decided to change the oil pump which I did and verified that there was no shavings in the bearings or anywhere else in the engine. I also put a 90 lb magnet on the bottom of my oil pan Tupelo any remaining material that may be suspended in the oil. And I did another oil change after that. So far so good. Thank you.
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