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Post by jasonsvolmo on Jul 24, 2020 5:58:52 GMT -5
So here’s what’s been done. Timing set 10• btdc spout removed New plugs, dist. Cap and rotor Compression checked okay (forgot numbers did it a year ago, they were all above 140) Code 54,81,82,83 New timing belt (quadruple checked cam timing) Removed injectors and cleaned them. Replaced VAM, tested tps at .9 opens too 4.6 no dead spots Also new ect sensor. Here’s the issue, on a cold start, it will turn on and immediately shut off, if I keep my foot on the gas pedal and let it warm up, it will idle a little rough and start up fine after, but still idle slightly rough. any thoughts? Have yet to check fuel pressure because I’m in the midst of replacing gas tank and fuel pump. Car has also sat for 10+ years. Any help be appreciated (1985 svo mustang la3 swap)
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Post by Stinger on Jul 24, 2020 12:42:53 GMT -5
How does it run after it's warmed up?
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Post by jasonsvolmo on Jul 24, 2020 15:47:09 GMT -5
How does it run after it's warmed up? When it’s warmed up it will hold its idle, but almost feels like it has a small misfire every now and then. No surging idle.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 24, 2020 18:02:43 GMT -5
How does it run overall when warm, not just at idle?
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Post by jasonsvolmo on Jul 24, 2020 18:10:34 GMT -5
How does it run overall when warm, not just at idle? Due too passenger rear and driver front calipers being stuck, and leak somewhere in brake lines or brake booster, I have not actually driven the car past 20 miles an hour, LOL but seemed to run decent going up and down the street, like I said it’s been sitting for awhile so I thought I would replace what’s needed, and reach out in case you’ve run into this issue before. I appreciate the help by the way!
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Post by Stinger on Jul 24, 2020 19:51:20 GMT -5
The only time I encountered an intermittent start issue it was a bad ECU but typically a bad ECU won't output codes and it appears yours gives out codes.
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Post by jasonsvolmo on Jul 25, 2020 0:31:37 GMT -5
The only time I encountered an intermittent start issue it was a bad ECU but typically a bad ECU won't output codes and it appears yours gives out codes. Interesting. Well I’ll keep you updated. I’m assuming after the new fuel pump (one I took out was original still had ford clamps on them) it may clear up my issue a bit. Should’ve checked fuel pressure before but it was all coming out anyways Side note: went ahead and changed tfi module with motor craft, and did notice the spout and red/lg wire insulation has crumbled off. Also would like to point out, when I first checked timing it was set at 20• advanced, and rotor points slightly in front of number 1 spark terminal on distributor cap.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 25, 2020 2:41:27 GMT -5
Crumbling wiring is typical for pre-86 Fords.
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Post by jasonsvolmo on Jul 30, 2020 17:48:29 GMT -5
Crumbling wiring is typical for pre-86 Fords. Finishing this thread for anyone who has this issue, always check the IAC connector. The locking pins in the IAC connector were loose and not making contact with the connector in the IAC. Reconnected and now will start up and idle fine.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 30, 2020 18:59:16 GMT -5
Good to hear! We sell new harnesses for this very reason.
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