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Post by perri2300 on Sept 10, 2020 15:42:09 GMT -5
After getting my car started for the first initial start up, I pulled the distributor back out to get it in a better spot and reset my timing, but as pulled the distributor out, a chip of the distributor gear broke off and came out with it. I managed to collect two of four chips that came off of it, but the really small ones must still be in there. I should probably mention the chips are in consecutive order at the top of the gear.
Does anyone know why this might have happened, what I need to replace, or how to prevent this again. I do not know if the previous owner installed a high volume oil pump, but I doubt it.
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Post by perri2300 on Sept 10, 2020 15:43:08 GMT -5
I checked the auxiliary gear also, and it is spotless.
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Post by Stinger on Sept 10, 2020 19:40:16 GMT -5
Wrong oil pump is the typical cause. Does the gear look like the teeth are the right thickness or does it look like they were thin in that area?
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Post by perri2300 on Sept 10, 2020 20:21:24 GMT -5
Wrong oil pump is the typical cause. Does the gear look like the teeth are the right thickness or does it look like they were thin in that area? They did kind of look a little worn down before I found them chipped. I did pull the Distributor out and look at it before I turned the engine over for the first time. |
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Post by Stinger on Sept 10, 2020 21:53:23 GMT -5
If they aren't paper thin, they shouldn't break at idle/low load unless 1) it's a HV pump or 2) you used 30w or similar "thick" oil.
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Post by perri2300 on Sept 10, 2020 22:51:15 GMT -5
If they aren't paper thin, they shouldn't break at idle/low load unless 1) it's a HV pump or 2) you used 30w or similar "thick" oil. Ahh man, I did use 30W non-detergant. What weight oil should I use for the break-in and after? I should also mention, I am pretty sure the auxiliary shaft was new, so do you think I can get away with just replacing distributor gear; if so, where can I get one that is made out of a better alloy? I am going to try and fish the other two chips out of the oil pan with a very powerful magnet.I had this oil pan off not to long ago, so I know the screen is clean on the pick up. |
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Post by Stinger on Sept 10, 2020 23:40:12 GMT -5
Oil weight is determined by engine design, bearing clearances, etc. Nothing about break in requires thicker oil and if you have a roller cam, you just use the oil the engine calls for. I typically use 10w30 Mobil 1 or Valvoline oil for the first 500-1000 miles, then switch to 10w30 full synthetic Mobil 1 or Valvoline and never look back.
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Post by perri2300 on Sept 11, 2020 18:01:36 GMT -5
I planned on using the full synthetic 10W30 Mobil 1 after you told me on here before. Just so I am certain the oil pump is not a high volume and worn-out, I want to order a new oil pump. It looks like BoportRacing has a "Melling heavy duty" one on their website; would you recommend this pump because I have seen a few different kinds out there. I think I am also going to go with a bronze distributor gear from Esslinger.
Seriously, thanks for the great help over the years with my project!
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Post by Stinger on Sept 11, 2020 19:29:57 GMT -5
Melling M86 or M127 pump, both of those are stock replacement. Available from any auto parts store. I'm not positive if the one Bo offers is one of these two or if it's HV.
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Post by perri2300 on Oct 2, 2020 23:42:10 GMT -5
I ordered the M86E and the bronze distributor gear from them. I pulled the pan and found the remaining peices of the gear. I am now in the process of putting it all back together. I learned the hard way that the one-peice oil pan gaskets will not work on the 85 SVO block because the gasket does not have the protrusions that fit into the grooves under the crank.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 3, 2020 0:04:41 GMT -5
Correct, though if you JB weld the grooves it then works fine. That's not really possible in the car though.
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Post by perri2300 on Oct 3, 2020 9:03:32 GMT -5
I swapped this engine in a Miata and I made it so I can get the pan out easily. I have easy and clear access to everything, but I can see the problem with being the fact of gravity pulling the JB Weld out of the grooves.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 3, 2020 19:15:31 GMT -5
Yes, that's what I was referring to.
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