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Post by Stinger on May 2, 2010 22:43:41 GMT -5
You just open the throttle, set that as WOT in Tunerstudio, close it, set that as closed, and you're done.
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Post by denz on May 5, 2010 21:16:35 GMT -5
got it today and my wideband. was thinking do you run your o2 in stock location on your downpipe?
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Post by Stinger on May 5, 2010 21:47:16 GMT -5
No, my wideband near the trans crossmember.
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Post by denz on May 8, 2010 10:39:39 GMT -5
well got the wideband installed on stock ecu 15psi, at idle 16-1 and under boost 13-1. at about mid throttle mabey 8-10psi i see it drops to about 10-1 and starts climbing to 13-1 is that normal. well time to hook up MS and see what happens.
denz
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Post by Stinger on May 8, 2010 12:22:50 GMT -5
No, that's not normal or correct.
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Post by denz on May 8, 2010 13:00:33 GMT -5
ok so now i can start with MS. stinger with what i said in my last post do you think i should go mega sg now or fix whats wrong wiith it first.
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Post by denz on May 8, 2010 15:44:52 GMT -5
still wont conect. driver not working.
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Post by Stinger on May 8, 2010 18:47:10 GMT -5
Trade laptops with 93turboLX, he's got his working with XP but not windows 7.
Did scott say there was anything wrong with the MS2 when you sent it to him? These drivers/USB cables aren't rocket science but for whatever reason some people seem to really struggle with them.
Without detailed info about how you installed it, what it said, what you tried, etc. there is no way I can help.
Start with what you did first, plug in USB cable or install driver? Then it said what? You did what? It said what? You did what...
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Post by Stinger on May 8, 2010 18:50:40 GMT -5
Oh, and if you are getting codes or the problems are related to something other than the tune, fix those before swapping to the MS2. If it's just a tuning issue, you can fix those after MS2.
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Post by denz on May 9, 2010 19:27:49 GMT -5
got it working with scotts help. It takes 3 files to run it and i was missing 2. this week i will do the compleate swap some time. Ill let u know.
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Post by denz on May 16, 2010 23:26:18 GMT -5
Ok it runs on MS! but my bypass valve blows out under open throttle. so I ordered one from u and will have to tune it to 8 pounds for now. Also i forgot to ask Scott but do i turn VE analize to easy or normal when auto tunning?
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Post by Stinger on May 17, 2010 1:11:33 GMT -5
You'll want to get the car to idle well, then to be driveable before you start to auto tune. At that point, the easy or normal settings will defend on the length of the drive and how far off the tune is. Initially you'll probably want it on easy so it can change the tune with ease. Drive around out of boost and let it dial in the tune until the afr is where it should be, be sure to run through different rpm ranges with different throttle positions (light throttle to 5000 or something, wide open to 2500, cruising around normally, etc. You want to cover every possible "out of boost" scenario, then start doing a little boost at low rpm and see how close the afr is. If it's crazy lean (more than 14:1 or so at low boost), manually add some fuel to that area of the map before continuing.
The best bet is to give it more fuel than it should need under boost and let auto tune lean it out, not start lean and let it richen it up. Lean kills engines, rich doesn't.
Just remember that in general, an engine will need more fuel as rpm increases and as boost increases so the numbers should get larger as they go to the right or up in the ve table. Once you exceed peak hp rpm, the fuel demands will drop back down a bit as rpm increases. What you can learn from this (besides getting the base table setup safe) is that if you make a low boost pull and find the "ideal" numbers to be around 115 and then notice that the numbers in the next higher boost range are in the 110 range, it's going to run lean. Use you brain and realize if it needs 115 at 10psi, it's going to need more than 115 at 15psi. Same theory for rpm increases. If it's safe at 115 at 4500 rpm and the number you didn't reach in the previous pull (so yet untuned) is only 110 at 5000 rpm, raise it to 115 or 118 or something before making the next pull. This will prevent it from going dangerously lean.
If there are any rpms under boost where the tune is way lean, fix it manually rather than driving through it and letting auto tune take care of it. That's a good way to blow a headgasket or worse before you ever get it tuned.
You'll also be much better off from a knowledge standpoint to do some tuning manually before starting auto tuning. Reason being, you'll learn a ton about what your engine wants/needs by doing it manually and this will help tremendously in the future. Just letting auto tune do all of the work is like letting a mechanic do all the work on your car. It may work fine but you won't learn a damn thing and won't be able to diagnose or fix any issues in the future, nor will you be able to use all of the features of the MS2 system and software.
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Post by denz on May 17, 2010 6:42:00 GMT -5
cool thanks for the info. will see how it goes!
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Post by Strangeleak on May 25, 2010 8:28:43 GMT -5
How's it running?
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Post by denz on May 25, 2010 17:04:31 GMT -5
running great, maxed out my stock injectors so tats what i need next.
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