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Post by adamt85 on Dec 1, 2011 21:51:22 GMT -5
I have delphi 75lb low imp injectors @ 40psi base pressure. My open time was 0.700 I changed it to 1.100 injector size in Ts I put 72 lb was @ 2 squirts simultaneous changed to 1 squirt when I get off work I can upload a log that i took when i drove around the block with the new settings.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 2, 2011 12:40:59 GMT -5
Upload that log if you can, as well as the current tune.
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Post by adamt85 on Dec 2, 2011 16:56:39 GMT -5
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Post by turbosam on Dec 3, 2011 19:04:01 GMT -5
Looks like it's a combo of both, though the fuel table is likely the largest culprit. Looks like Scott is now sending out my old fuel table from a car I was tuning years ago as his "base tune" table. Not sure why he'd be sending a fuel table for an engine with a stage 3 head/cam to someone with a stock head/cam though. The fuel requirements are about 40% different and the peak hp/tq is about 2000 rpm different. Have you read through our tuning guides at the top of this forum and used them to try and fix the problem? What is your air/fuel ratio doing as it starts to build boost and then as it has "no power at all"? I bet he is a second owner that does not look any thing like the base tune I got with my mega squirt.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 3, 2011 20:40:37 GMT -5
Scott has changed his base tune timing tables at least 4 times, the greatest change came after I spent hours compiling info to email him (after discussing it over the phone) to try to show him why his original base tunes were dangerous and crazy aggressive.
Just because his and yours look different don't mean they aren't both base tunes from Scott.
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Post by wesk on Dec 3, 2011 20:48:23 GMT -5
The .7 number is closer to the proper open time for you injectors the way the MS2 ECu drives them.
You also should be able to run 2 squirts (which is either 2/simultaneous, or 4/alternating) with 72's driven the way a standard MS2 does. It is borderline at idle, but most can get away with it. More squirts will give you snappier transient response.
Increasing your open time will lean it out at low loads, but should not have changed anything about the way the car starts.
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Post by 88turbodad on Dec 4, 2011 9:48:33 GMT -5
This is the second owner of that mega squirt. I have never given out nore will I ever give out your VE table! The first owner got the VE table from when you posted it on the internet! My base timing table has been pretty much the same with a few minor changes. It is pretty much a copy of Wes timing table that he posted on Turbo ford years ago. The tune that I put on your mega squirt was coppied line for line from your MS1. If you would like to discuss this more please feel free to give me a call 609 879 9112
Adam I am sorry i did not get back to you my grand mother passed away.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 4, 2011 13:28:48 GMT -5
Well, it's good to hear you aren't using my old VE table.
The timing table "minor changes" involved subtracting nearly 10 degrees from the most critical portions of the table (20+psi) so it's not something I'd consider minor.
I still have all the old MS1 tunes and non of them have a timing map like the one the MS2 had. The bamafuel tunes were actually pretty conservative. I can post them if you're curious.
I'll let Wes say whether or not he ever had a timing table that commanded nearly 30 degrees at 300kpa but I'm highly doubtful. Especially since that's not even close to what you told me on the phone about where the base timing map came from.
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Post by 88turbodad on Dec 4, 2011 18:30:43 GMT -5
My base tune timing table has at 30psi and max RPM 17deg. I dont know where you are getting your numbers from. With all the cars I have running my mega squirt system there would be a lot of cars blown up if my base tune was that far off.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 4, 2011 19:49:11 GMT -5
I know what your current timing map looks like. It's posted 7-8 posts above here by Adam. The comment above was about your original map and your second version from 1.5-2.5 years ago.
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Post by adamt85 on Jan 16, 2012 19:10:35 GMT -5
I tried starting my car today after 3 weeks. the battery was dead so i put a jumper box on it and i could not get it to fire. it dident sputter or anything. here is a short log i took. last i messed with the car i updated to 3.1 and recalibrated my sensors and loaded my tune and the car started and ran fine. it is about 2deg here too if that matters
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Post by Stinger on Jan 17, 2012 0:29:52 GMT -5
Looks like the first issue is your battery voltage is in the 7v range which is most likely too low to create spark.
I don't see any throttle input. If it didn't fire after a few seconds of cranking, I'd be messing with the throttle to see if I could get it to respond.
If it hasn't been tuned down to a temp near the 2 degrees you stated (your log actually shows it being 20 degrees or so) then that's probably also a large part of the "no start" issue.
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Post by adamt85 on Jan 17, 2012 0:50:49 GMT -5
I meant 20 deg, sorry. i have a brand new red top and a cutoff switch and my batt was dead in 3 weeks.. i dont get it. i dont think it is tuned to 20 deg either now that you mention it. i dident touch the gas when cranking. i had a jumper box on it when i took this log. ill charge up my batt and go from there. thanks stinger!
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Post by adamt85 on Feb 7, 2012 19:31:29 GMT -5
Alright I was reading over the thread in the pimp section about cold start and tried some of the ideas out. the priming pulse needed raised on mine as my car fires right up now no problem. my problem now is my iac is not working right. i dont mind manually holding it at 1500 untill warm. but my afr is 10.3~10.5 at warm idle. i took all of the fuel from where it idles and it raised it to 11.1 or so. this is what my guage says not what is displayed in ts as im having ground issues.
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Post by adamt85 on Feb 7, 2012 19:32:15 GMT -5
datalog
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