Post by acobillas88 on May 26, 2016 15:44:25 GMT -5
I wanted to share my hydro boost upgrade that I got out of an issue of Super Ford Dated Sep 1993. I bout a back issue a month ago off of EBay and scanned it so I can archive it. I would post a copy of it but due to copyright laws, I would prefer not to. (Too much of a gray area thing). Therefore, I will share my experience with my interpretation of the process. *Disclaimer- I am not liable for any damage or harm of any sort.* In other words do not be dumb. Failure to safely test your brakes can be very bad. Use common sense and wear safety items such as glasses, goggle, gloves, and other gear.
What is Hydro Boost? Hydro boost is a form of braking assistance like vacuum boost. The difference is instead of vacuum it uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump system.
What are the benefits of Hydro over Vacuum boost? Better braking as in more stopping power along with better brake pedal feel. 15% to 20% less brake pedal travel. Also room. The Hydro booster saves room around the firewall were the vacuum diaphragm resides. In returns adds more length front to back pushing the brake master cylinder forwards a few inches.
Drawbacks of Hydro boost are weight and plumbing. The Hydro boost unit itself weighs more than a vacuum boost unit. By adding in lines and fluid, it adds to the final weight and more maintenance. According to the shipping scale, it is about 11 lbs. for just the hydro booster alone not counting lines and fluid.
Now that we have a basic idea of what a Hydro Booster is and how it works we can move onto what we need to install it on a 79-93 Mustang using factory Ford parts.
Note: This setup does not require any cutting, drilling, or pedal swapping like other do!
• Hydro booster from the fallowing Ford vehicles: 1984-89 Continental/Mark VII/LSC without ABS. A1-Cardon part number: 52-9391
• High-pressure line Ford part number: E5LY-3A719-A or Edelmann 71194
• High-pressure line Ford part number: E4LY-3A719-C or Edelmann 91507
• 3/8th inch fuel or power steering hose for low-pressure return line.
• X4 3/8th hose clamps.
• x2 3/8th inch flat washers.
• 3/8th T
• Tube of silicone sealer. Black or clear RTV by Permatex or similar will work fine.
• Power-steering fluid.
• Optional: Power-steering cooler.
Cost for this should be around $100 +/- if you get a used hydro-booster and 3rd party lines i.e. Edelmann or $450 if you get the hydro-booster from a parts store $200 +/- with the core fee and Ford lines will cost you $120 ea +/-. Don’t mess with used lines get new: I found both lines for just under $20 ea. shipped On EBay and Amazon. Take your time and look around and you can save money.
1. SO we must remove the vacuum booster and brake light switch from the pedal assy. The easiest way to remove the 4 nuts holding the vacuum booster is to remove the drives seat and drop/remove the steering column. With both out of the way you’ll have a better shot at the 4 nuts. These nuts attach the clutch/brake pedal assy. to the firewall. Long extensions and deep well sockets are necessary for this.
2. Lets move under the hood of the car and remove the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. Note: You may be able to leave to the brake lines on the master cylinder if you do not want to bleed your brake lines.
3. Next, remove the large vacuum line going to the vacuum booster and began to pull the vacuum booster from the firewall. You may need to pry with a flat bar or flat-headed screwdriver.
4. With the vacuum booster out you can now prep you hydro booster by adding a 3/8th flat washer to the 2 studs on the bottom of the booster. If you look at the firewall, you can determine how to position the hydro booster. The idea is to put a small amount of angle on the hydro booster so that the push rod mimics the stock Mustang vacuum booster push rod that has a little bit of a droop to it for the brake pedal.
5. Before installing the hydro booster use some black or clear style RTV silicone on the gasket that sandwiches between the firewall and hydro booster. For a good seal, be sure to use a thick bead. Note: the flat 3/8th washers go on the studs 1st and then the gasket next.
6. Now with the Hydro booster on the firewall reinstall the 4 nuts that hold it to the firewall with brake light switch and the push rod to the pedal assy. Along with the steering column and drive seat. Note: make sure the 4 booster nuts are tight and some green lock tight for added security. Same goes with the any steering column & seat nuts/bolts. Refer to factory toque spec from a repair manual.
7. Back under in the engine bay we need to reinstall the master cylinder and the new lines. E5LY-3A719-A or Edelmann 71194 goes from the power steering pump high-pressure side to the hydro booster port closer to the engine. E4LY-3A719-C or Edelmann 91507 goes from the steering rack high-pressure side to the hydro pump top right port. The center port is the return line that uses 3/8th fuel/power steering hose. The line will need to be T’ed to the preexisting return line that’s goes from the power steering pump to the steering rack. Use hose clamps for the return lines.
8. Okay with everything button up we should now prime the system. Remove the fuel pump relay or trip your fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk area to crank the engine without starting it. Be sure to top off you power steering fluid 1st to the full line on the reservoir. Crank the engine for 30 sec or so to get the fluids moving and check the reservoir then repeat. PRO-TIP: I think the best way to bleed the system is by supporting the front of the Mustang on jack stands and staring the engine, while its running rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock. This works really well on most 80’s-90’s Fords with the mustang style steering pumps that have the slanted reservoir.
9. Time for some baby steps by rolling slow a few feet and see how well the brakes stop. If all seems good and no leaks are present time to take a little ride around the block to make sure all is well.
10. With the test drive completed recheck powering steering fluids and enjoy your new Luxury brakes without owning a Lincoln!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stole that last line from the article lol.
So there are some things to keep in mind here, you may also need adapter fittings for hoses, you may need an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I have also heard of some people gutting the rear proportion valve but I cannot really say what good it will do.
My setup is the SN95 brakes and stock drum in the rear but will soon be SN95 disk rear.
Hope someone finds this useful because there’s some mixed info out there on doing this swap.
Please let me know if something isn’t right or if you have a tip for this.
What is Hydro Boost? Hydro boost is a form of braking assistance like vacuum boost. The difference is instead of vacuum it uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump system.
What are the benefits of Hydro over Vacuum boost? Better braking as in more stopping power along with better brake pedal feel. 15% to 20% less brake pedal travel. Also room. The Hydro booster saves room around the firewall were the vacuum diaphragm resides. In returns adds more length front to back pushing the brake master cylinder forwards a few inches.
Drawbacks of Hydro boost are weight and plumbing. The Hydro boost unit itself weighs more than a vacuum boost unit. By adding in lines and fluid, it adds to the final weight and more maintenance. According to the shipping scale, it is about 11 lbs. for just the hydro booster alone not counting lines and fluid.
Now that we have a basic idea of what a Hydro Booster is and how it works we can move onto what we need to install it on a 79-93 Mustang using factory Ford parts.
Note: This setup does not require any cutting, drilling, or pedal swapping like other do!
• Hydro booster from the fallowing Ford vehicles: 1984-89 Continental/Mark VII/LSC without ABS. A1-Cardon part number: 52-9391
• High-pressure line Ford part number: E5LY-3A719-A or Edelmann 71194
• High-pressure line Ford part number: E4LY-3A719-C or Edelmann 91507
• 3/8th inch fuel or power steering hose for low-pressure return line.
• X4 3/8th hose clamps.
• x2 3/8th inch flat washers.
• 3/8th T
• Tube of silicone sealer. Black or clear RTV by Permatex or similar will work fine.
• Power-steering fluid.
• Optional: Power-steering cooler.
Cost for this should be around $100 +/- if you get a used hydro-booster and 3rd party lines i.e. Edelmann or $450 if you get the hydro-booster from a parts store $200 +/- with the core fee and Ford lines will cost you $120 ea +/-. Don’t mess with used lines get new: I found both lines for just under $20 ea. shipped On EBay and Amazon. Take your time and look around and you can save money.
1. SO we must remove the vacuum booster and brake light switch from the pedal assy. The easiest way to remove the 4 nuts holding the vacuum booster is to remove the drives seat and drop/remove the steering column. With both out of the way you’ll have a better shot at the 4 nuts. These nuts attach the clutch/brake pedal assy. to the firewall. Long extensions and deep well sockets are necessary for this.
2. Lets move under the hood of the car and remove the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. Note: You may be able to leave to the brake lines on the master cylinder if you do not want to bleed your brake lines.
3. Next, remove the large vacuum line going to the vacuum booster and began to pull the vacuum booster from the firewall. You may need to pry with a flat bar or flat-headed screwdriver.
4. With the vacuum booster out you can now prep you hydro booster by adding a 3/8th flat washer to the 2 studs on the bottom of the booster. If you look at the firewall, you can determine how to position the hydro booster. The idea is to put a small amount of angle on the hydro booster so that the push rod mimics the stock Mustang vacuum booster push rod that has a little bit of a droop to it for the brake pedal.
5. Before installing the hydro booster use some black or clear style RTV silicone on the gasket that sandwiches between the firewall and hydro booster. For a good seal, be sure to use a thick bead. Note: the flat 3/8th washers go on the studs 1st and then the gasket next.
6. Now with the Hydro booster on the firewall reinstall the 4 nuts that hold it to the firewall with brake light switch and the push rod to the pedal assy. Along with the steering column and drive seat. Note: make sure the 4 booster nuts are tight and some green lock tight for added security. Same goes with the any steering column & seat nuts/bolts. Refer to factory toque spec from a repair manual.
7. Back under in the engine bay we need to reinstall the master cylinder and the new lines. E5LY-3A719-A or Edelmann 71194 goes from the power steering pump high-pressure side to the hydro booster port closer to the engine. E4LY-3A719-C or Edelmann 91507 goes from the steering rack high-pressure side to the hydro pump top right port. The center port is the return line that uses 3/8th fuel/power steering hose. The line will need to be T’ed to the preexisting return line that’s goes from the power steering pump to the steering rack. Use hose clamps for the return lines.
8. Okay with everything button up we should now prime the system. Remove the fuel pump relay or trip your fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk area to crank the engine without starting it. Be sure to top off you power steering fluid 1st to the full line on the reservoir. Crank the engine for 30 sec or so to get the fluids moving and check the reservoir then repeat. PRO-TIP: I think the best way to bleed the system is by supporting the front of the Mustang on jack stands and staring the engine, while its running rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock. This works really well on most 80’s-90’s Fords with the mustang style steering pumps that have the slanted reservoir.
9. Time for some baby steps by rolling slow a few feet and see how well the brakes stop. If all seems good and no leaks are present time to take a little ride around the block to make sure all is well.
10. With the test drive completed recheck powering steering fluids and enjoy your new Luxury brakes without owning a Lincoln!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stole that last line from the article lol.
So there are some things to keep in mind here, you may also need adapter fittings for hoses, you may need an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I have also heard of some people gutting the rear proportion valve but I cannot really say what good it will do.
My setup is the SN95 brakes and stock drum in the rear but will soon be SN95 disk rear.
Hope someone finds this useful because there’s some mixed info out there on doing this swap.
Please let me know if something isn’t right or if you have a tip for this.
