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Post by nmanville on Oct 6, 2009 18:43:15 GMT -5
I have been working on my project car for a couple of months now. I have a 1993 mustang converted to 2.3L Turbo. I had some issues with the timing not advancing. I traced that back to the computer. The 5V refrence wire had 12V through a short in the wiring loom. I bought a new computer and now the car will start pick up off idle and then die. It has good fuel pressure, the spark plugs, wires distributor and TFI are all new. This setup worked on the old computer that would not advance timing. It would at least run but now it wont. Also the Fan used to be on constantly but now that the new computer is in it is not. Any Ideas? Thanks
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Post by Stinger on Oct 6, 2009 23:16:50 GMT -5
Did you scan for codes?
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Post by nmanville on Oct 10, 2009 10:32:35 GMT -5
Yes. 22, 81 and 83
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Post by Stinger on Oct 11, 2009 0:01:43 GMT -5
22 says the map isn't working properly or isn't wired correctly. Did you pull the vacuum line off of the factory map sensor when you did the swap?
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Post by nmanville on Oct 11, 2009 0:23:37 GMT -5
Yes i did. What is The Thermactor bypass circut? I think that is 81 right?
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Post by Stinger on Oct 11, 2009 15:45:44 GMT -5
81 and 83 are typical swap codes.
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Post by nmanville on Oct 11, 2009 22:20:07 GMT -5
So im looking at the MAP then. What is the typical range at startup? Would that cause a dying problem?
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Post by Stinger on Oct 12, 2009 11:53:11 GMT -5
Is it actually wired up? There is a "T" that goes into the baro/map wire. Are you sure you didn't cut it completely instead of T'ing off of it?
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Post by nmanville on Oct 12, 2009 16:29:28 GMT -5
It has full battery voltage at both pins when it is pluged in and the key is on. When i went back today and rescaned the codes i also got 32 and 84.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 12, 2009 20:51:14 GMT -5
32 isn't a valid code. 84 is typical.
You should have 5v at one wire, ground at the other.
As far as I can tell your harness is still wired incorrectly.
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Post by nmanville on Oct 12, 2009 22:18:21 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the help. I will get on that. I just didn't know if it was 5v or 12. Thanks
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Post by Stinger on Oct 13, 2009 10:22:15 GMT -5
All sensors are 5v.
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Post by nmanville on Oct 13, 2009 19:18:36 GMT -5
with EEC IV I should be able to eliminate the MAP by unpluging it thus forcing the computer to run a base line reading but it still won't stay running.
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Post by Stinger on Oct 13, 2009 19:50:02 GMT -5
That may be true but that doesn't mean your wiring isn't screwy. First step in diagnosing problems is to first fix all KNOWN problems.
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Post by nmanville on Oct 13, 2009 20:54:57 GMT -5
Alright. The problem was fixed. It has 5v running to it. Its output signal is low so i tryed to bypass it by unplugging it. It still produced the same problem. Car fires starts then dies. It doesnt need to be perfect for now. I just need to be able to move it. House just sold and i don't want to bother my uncle and have to use his racecar trailor. Don't school me on Basic electrical theory. I have had this discussion with you before. The computer looks at all inputs before the engine is given the ok to run by the pcm. If any of the inputs fail then the engine dies. The timing is controled by the Baro and the TFI module. Not by the rpm alone like you said. When it comes to this 1980's stuff i may be a little lost but I am an automotive tech and I just need a little time to absorb how this system works. Thank you for your time
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