'92 Turbo 'Stang project Guidance

[irsmart21]

I am sooo ready to have my project finished....especially before it gets real cold here in Va. Currently my project sit in this position:

'92 LX 5.0 Chassis with modified T-5 WC Transmission to marry up to my '88 2.3T with the bell housing adapter. Being that I am relatively new to doing "major" engine work, I employed my friend to help me rebuild the motor shortly after I bought, before i dropped it in the LX. When we took head and oil pan off, my friend suggested that I shouldn't have worry about doing a major tear down on the motor because the rod bearings hadn't even broken through their "wear coating"?? You might remember my other post I made where I highlighted my idiotic decision to drill out the $350 flywheel because the holes wouldn't "line up". Well the tear down of this motor occurred in the same time period as that decision, so I am hoping a made a good choice in not doing a major rebuild. We did replace all of the gaskets, the oil pump, and the water pump.

So we oiled everything before we put it all back together and the motor is sitting in the car waiting for everything else to catch up to it. I am trying to figure out how I should proceed.

I am going to have some funding available to me in the next few weeks and I have got a small list of things that I think would be good for it, but i would like the pros here to nit-pick my ideas and potentially point me in a different direction if it is at all necessary.

Here is my list:

SBF Flywheel @ Stinger-Performance.com $330
(I figured this would be a smarter move than trying to make my mistake work)

Clutch Stage3 @ Stinger-Performance.com $325
(Looking at the Stage-3 6-puck for the 5.0, is this overkill?)

165amp Alternator @ RJM Injection Tech.com $145

Powersteering pump @ Advance Auto $60

Fuel Pressure Reg @ JDSPerformance.com $70

BOV @ Ebay.com $30

Gillis Boost controller $150

Turbo Oil feed, Braided @ Stinger-Performance.com $45

Turbo Return line, Briaded @ Stinger-Performance.com $68.50

Front mount Intercooler @ Stinger-Performance.com $560

Cat Converter @ Jegs Magnaflow #642-54959 $78

Flex Coupler @ Stinger-Performance.com $35

Exhaust Clamps @ Jegs $

Stock Location Turbo Header @ Ebay.com $275
(does anybody know anything about these headers?)

Turbo Elbow, 3” @ Stinger-Performance.com $90

Single 3" Exhaust Down & Mid pipe combo $250

Muffler $100

Or

Downpipe, mid pipe, y-pipe combo $300

2 Mufflers $200


A-Pillar Gauge Pod $
AFR Gauge $
Boost Gauge $

With my setup and a stock IHI, what out of this list is appropriate to finish my project right and what is overkill?

I know there has been advice given concerning the 3"elbow not being done until the turbo is upgraded, but i figured if it wasn't going to hurt anything I might as well do it while i got some cash.

Any and all advice given is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Sam

[Stinger]

The stg 3 is overkill (rated at over 600hp) but it drives really nice in a street car. A stg 1 would suffice.

Just get a used 3g alternator off ebay for less than $50...they are 110-130 amps and work fine.

No reason really for the $150 version of the gillis, the $45 version is sufficient.

Cat and clamps are available on our site and cheaper than Jegs.

Those headers haven't received very good reviews concerning their longevity. I'd just use an E6, especially with that IHI.

IHI uses a different elbow bolt pattern than a T3 or larger Hybrid turbo. I'd say that's a good reason not to do it now (can't use it after upgrade).

[oneowner88lx]

A mildly ported E6 would work well:

www.cardomain.com/ride/530871/50

Are there any issue running a blow off valve with a vane air meter?

[merc460]

Ya get a better BOV a double piston forge unit or some thing along that line.

[sleepinsol]

with the vam, unless its a blow thru you cant really run a bov. the air meter will pick up an air leak and run like garbage for a second. get a bpv so you can recirculate the air and no air leak will be picked up.

[Stinger]

Nov 9, 2009 21:34:31 GMT -5 sleepinsol said:

with the vam, unless its a blow thru you cant really run a bov. the air meter will pick up an air leak and run like garbage for a second. get a bpv so you can recirculate the air and no air leak will be picked up.

Not true, that's why we stated getting a dual piston bov that is designed to work with a metered air system.

[irsmart21]

could you guys give me give me an example of what you think the best kind of BOV is in the style that y'all are talking about, maybe a link if you could find one.

Thanks

[Stinger]

www.rtecshop.com/index.php?p=product_view&product_id=308

www.ecodetuning.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=436

www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&catalog=0006

[sleepinsol]

Nov 9, 2009 22:00:55 GMT -5 Stinger said:

Nov 9, 2009 21:34:31 GMT -5 sleepinsol said:

with the vam, unless its a blow thru you cant really run a bov. the air meter will pick up an air leak and run like garbage for a second. get a bpv so you can recirculate the air and no air leak will be picked up.

Not true, that's why we stated getting a dual piston bov that is designed to work with a metered air system.

I misread that part. my mistake.

[79turbostang]

so a bpv works lust like a bov but like a bpv doesn't stay open at idle and they get put on just like a bov. Because I'm running a bov and i new something wasn't right about how it was working im just trying to figure what i need to do to put one of these on

[Stinger]

A bypass valve leaks at idle but it recirculates the leaked air back into the intake hose between the air meter and turbo. A single piston blow off valve that isn't adjusted to stay closed at idle will act like a vacuum leak and let air out at idle/cruise. A dual piston or properly adjusted single piston will not leak at idle and will work just as well as a bypass valve.