Starts but won't stay running

[nmanville]

I have a 93 mustang that is converted to 2.3t. I had a computer in the car that would run the engine but not advance timing. I got a remanufactured unit. The car starts, runs for a couple of seconds then dies. Fuel pressure is a little low. Its like 30psi. The only code uther than the egr code, 83 i think, is 22. The Baro senser seems to not be working right. By unplugging it the computer should provide a refrence for it so if it was that i would think that would solve that problem. What could be the problem? I ohm'ed out all of the wires and they all have continuity. Could it have to do with the TFI?

[FRANK/TurboTempo]

I'm sure you need to re pin the wirering to match the computer you instaled.
in the tech section there is pics of all the pinout for the turbo computers.

[Stinger]

I know I say this every time as my first post in a thread but it's for good reason: Scan for codes.

Next step would be to put the other ecu back in to see if the problem goes away. If it does, it's the ecu. If it doesn't, it's probably not related to the ecu swap.

[nmanville]

I've been through two known good ecus. I really don't think that is the problem. Codes are 22, 83 and 81

[denz]

intake, pipe leak thats what mine did double check all connections.

[Stinger]

You need to do the test I stated above. If you truly use known good ecu's each one will run exactly the same. The fact that it changed how it runs after the ecu swap means it's either a bad ecu or an unrelated and coincidental problem. Swapping back to the previous ecu is the only way to determine that. Without this test, diagnosis is impossible over the internet.

[nmanville]

The ecu was bad because it would not advance timing so I sent it back and got a refund. I have gotten two other ecus that both do this same thing. Car starts but won't stay running. I wish I still had the ecu that it was running on but it is long gone.

[Stinger]

Maybe you need to explain this from the beginning. I don't know what worked, what didn't, why it's different now, etc.

My initial thought if I bought 3 ecu's that all had the same problem (no advance) is that it's not an ecu issue, it's a wiring issue. Without know what has changed since it worked though, it's hard to say.

[tiresmoke69]

The timing not advancing would not cause it to crank up and go dead, but check to see if your spout is plugged in on the distributor. Make sure to check all of your sensor plugs under the hood and all of your fuses just to make sure its nothing that simple. I would also check your fuel filter if you have not already. This would be a good start.

[oneowner88lx]

Make sure all your grounds are good too. Engine to body, body to negative battery, Pins 20, 40, 60 on the ecu connector should be zero ohms back to the negative battery terminal.

[nmanville]

The timing advance had to do with the old ecu. Where should the engine to body ground be hooked to. I have it on but it is probably not making a great connection. I will ohm out the wires ties day and get back to you. Thanks for all the help

[Stinger]

The battery ground goes to a large bolt on the front driver's side of the block...typically one of the power steering bracket bolts.

[nmanville]

Found my problem. The wire that runs from the tfi to the starter was burnt up and not making connection. When I fixed that the car started and ran but when I shut the key off and tried to restart it, it would not run. It will only fire once. Could the fuel to air be too lean? What should the vam be reading? Thanks for your help

[Stinger]

What does it do when you try to restart it? Just crank? Crank and sputter but not run? Start then die?

[nmanville]

It cranks but does not fire. It will on occasion fire once but won't start up. I am wondering if it is not getting enough fuel for start up. It has a fuel pressure of 32. Could the vam not be calibrated right in some way?