Blown head gasket on 2.3 - need opinions on replacement

[brad]

I blew out my Fel Pro 8993 head gasket after 5k miles (link to pic below). I did not retorque it (Fel Pro says no need). It was a clean install done on a stand. My arm torque meter measured very even (and heavy) torque on all 10 ARP head studs when removing. I'm running 22-23psi on a street car T3/T4, PiMPx, Gnari, Stinger 3" downpipe/exhaust, bigger injectors, FMIC, etc. The 8993 is the OEM part and I've read that some folks think it's good to 450hp. My car dynoed 240hp at the wheels (running a T5 and posi). The Fel Pro 1035 is the high performance upgrade. What are the pros and cons of using this gasket? Why wouldn't everyone use the hi-po part? I don't want to have to pull the head again...what a pain. Thanks.


photos.app.goo.gl/tP3mUdAHBdz6eCpbA

[Stinger]

Pic link says "album empty".

The headgasket blows because the tune is bad, too much boost for the fuel octane, warped head/block, or insufficient head bolt/stud torque.

We know the bolt/stud torque was not up to spec simply because the torque always drops after a heat cycle. This is why 2.3 guys retorque; to avoid having to pull it apart and repair it later. The only time you don't retorque is if you're using the 6 point bolts which are torque to yield (TTY) bolts and don't use a torque value but rather a torque angle when installing.

I don't know the status of your tune, boost level, octane, block and head warpage, or anything else, so I can't say whether any of those things also attributed to the issue.

Cons of running the 1035? Price, chance of internal engine damage if the tune is poor and the headgasket doesn't blow (basically the stock gasket is acting as a fuse and blowing before engine damage occurs). The 8993 also does better than the 1035 on slightly warped/not freshly machined blocks because it's more flexible (though ideally, you're not trying to seal a warped surface).