Cylinder Cross-hatch & Stains

[Strangeleak]

I was wondering if this cross-hatch pattern is acceptable and also the stains in cylinder #3 & 4 didn't come out with a light hone. I didn't want to hone too much for the fear of "boring" the cylinder in a sense. How much can I safely hone?

Cylinder #1


Cylinder #2


Cylinder #3


Cylinder #4

[Stinger]

You can hone it as much as allowed without exceeding the maximum allowable bore size recommended by Ford (found in technical manuals like Chilton's, etc.). The first two look fine (except the hone wasn't moved up and down fast enough so the crosshatch doesn't meet at a 30 degree angle like it's supposed to...it appears to be about 5-10 degrees). The last two don't appear to be acceptable. It appears the engine had water in it and rust ate away at the bore. I'd measure the stained area and see how much larger it is than the honed areas. It may be impossible to hone out the rust without needing oversized pistons.

[Strangeleak]

Ok cool, i'll re-hone Cylinders 1 & 2. Yeah the water was my fault, I sprayed the block with a hose and degreaser while the lower end and head were still on the block, then forgot to drain the water afterwards. For some reason 3 and 4 got the worse end of it. Speaking of 3 & 4, I guess it's an optical illusion in the photo, but the stains is actually "raised" off the surface of the cylinder, which makes me believe it's not rust. My fingernail can catch the edge of it. Cylinder 1&2 had it to a far lesser extent, but I was able to remove it with the hone.

So, what your saying is just to continue honing until it's gone and measure the bore afterwards because it WILL cause issues with ring seating, etc.?

[oneowner88lx]

If your budget will allow I would take it to a shop and get it measured and possibly bored out for a larger pistons. That way you can get the piston to wall clearance right on the money for the best results. I would be concerned that trying to use a hone to get those rust spots out would result in cylinder wall taper and rings won't seal if the taper is out of specs. Also, the finish on the bore must match the type of ring used. For instance moly coated rings will need a much smoother finish then I am seeing in those pictures.

[Stinger]

Are you using a ball hone or a rigid stone hone?

[Strangeleak]

May 31, 2010 22:00:36 GMT -5 oneowner88lx said:

If your budget will allow I would take it to a shop and get it measured and possibly bored out for a larger pistons. That way you can get the piston to wall clearance right on the money for the best results.

I may end up doing that as I am starting a new job soon for a much needed and long overdue pay raise.


Stinger, I'm using a ball hone.

[Stinger]

OK, a ball hone will never accomplish what you are trying to do. A ball hone is only for bores that are "in spec" but just need fresh crosshatch cut into it. Rigid hones have solid stones that are ~6" long and therefore will take off the high spots first before touching the rest of the bore. This is what you would need to use to remove the raised area where the rust is.

[Strangeleak]

Ahhhh, that makes sense! Thanks for the info. I'll have to debate on whether to pick one of those up or do what "oneowner88lx" suggested and just take it to a machinist.

I appreciate the input guys!

[DRD]

Be careful with those ridig hones. They will take some meat off if you crank the adjuster down.
If you put a side load while your honing it can make cylender out of round. I learned this the hard way when I was boreing motorcycle cylenders.

[oneowner88lx]

If you want it to last I would have a shop check it over because it might need to be bored. You have to make sure the cylinder bore taper and the piston to wall clearance are within specs. The like I said before the cylinder walls have to finished depending on the type of rings you use. Moly coated rings need smoother finish then regular rings. Just make you you ask around and find a shop who knows what they are doing and cares about customers.