Pinto road race "project bolt on" questions

[pintosc]

I am building a track day toy with a super light 71 Pinto chassis and an 87 turbo coupe power plant. My goal is a dependable 250 rwh with bolt on upgrades. I'm ready to begin ordering parts, beginning with header, FMIC, and PiMP, but have a few other questions. Where can I source a T3/T4 hybrid turbo of good quality at a reasonable price? I'm removing the external water lines and oil cooler/warmer from oil filter and intake. Can I just plug the hole in the bottom of the intake? Can I plug the supply and return tubes on the front of the head and waterpump without complication? Can you foresee any problems switching to a remote oil filter and cooler set-up? Do you offer correct length bolts for your header or do they come with the kit? Are there any issues with gutting and rotating the upper portion of the intake but leaving the lower manifold stock? With the previously mentioned set-up, would I benefit from upsizing to larger injectors from the brown tops? Can you suggest a good service manual that will help me identify all the sensors and connections? Thanks in advance for your support with my project. I will be happy to reward your fine customer service with my performance part dollars. Any comments that will move my project forward will be appreciated and taken as constructive feedback. Thanks again.

[fess40]

The search function will serve you well my friend. The header doesn't come with the bolts, but Shannon just posted correct size a couple of days ago for someone. Sounds like a great project, keep us posted.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using proboards

[Stinger]

For 250whp, there is no reason to run a hybrid turbo. It will just have slower boost response than the T3 with no real benefit to offset that loss of TQ. I wouldn't bother with a header at that power level either. Port the E6 manifold and run it. You'll need a rebust cast manifold for your usage (endurance racing - if I understood your proposed use) anyway. You won't need larger injectors either at that power level (all of these power level ratings are listed in our FAQ section). Gutting the upper but not at least porting the first couple inches of the lower will result in horrible flow (forcing all that air into a flat flange with 4 holes in it). Sensor locations are listed in our FAQ here: stinger-performance.proboards.com/thread/19/where-sensor-located

Remember that the stock oil cooler is also an oil heater at cold start so if you remove it, make sure the engine is at full operating temp before beating on it. The coolant flow diagram in the FAQ section should answer your "can I plug this or that" questions.

[pintosc]

Thanks for the quick reply. Sorry for the repeat questions. I'll become more familiar with your site before asking any more. Perhaps I should set a higher goal HP? I figured I would replace the 25 yr old injectors with new ones anyway, why not go a little bigger for about the same money? As for the header, better flow, turbo relocation, ability to use other products like ext waste gate, oil lines, and FMIC, as well as the fact it is much more cool than the cast dog, were motivating factors. I'll become a more informed consumer and follow up. Thx

[Stinger]

Upgrading the injectors is fine, you just have to be aware that going larger than stock requires some sort of way to tune the ECU which will add more cost/complexity to the project if your power goals don't require ecu tuning otherwise.

[pintosc]

I planned to use the PiMP so that I might open up the intake side and make entire system more adaptable. This would allow for a variety of changes to both a "base tune" and development in the future as I understand it. Saving money where/when you can is a good thing but spending money on great parts rather than skimping always pays off in fun. Did you have an answer for my prior turbo question about where to buy the right turbo for my purpose at a reasonable price? (Why don't you sell turbos?)

[Stinger]

If you plan to get a PiMP then you can run larger injectors without issue (at that point I'd agree that going larger makes more sense than spending money on stock sized stuff).

I did answer your turbo question. First sentence of my reply above: "For 250whp, there is no reason to run a hybrid turbo. It will just have slower boost response than the T3 with no real benefit to offset that loss of TQ." Unless you change your goals to north of 280rwhp or so, this information holds true. Our FAQ page lists some turbo options for different power levels. We don't sell turbos because you have to sell a ton of turbos (like $30k+ per year) to get a decent cost from the manufacturers in order to compete with the "cheaper" online sellers. If we can't be the cheapest or close to the cheapest, there is limited incentive.

[pintosc]

That settles it, my new goal is 285 rwhp. Now can I justify a few more of fun upgrade items?

[Stinger]

I'd still suggest a ported E6 exhaust manifold for your endurance racing use. You could pick up a 50 trim turbo (details covered on the FAQ page) or one of the smaller Borg Warner EFR turbos for better low rpm boost response. Add in some ported intakes and you should have a pretty good setup (when combined with the stuff mentioned above).

[pintosc]

Do you guys port the E6 or it as simple as port matching and removing extra casting?

[Stinger]

We don't do porting. Bo-port.com will, or you can do it yourself. It's just port matching at the head side. There is quite a bit that has to be removed at the turbo side.