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Post by 84mustang on Oct 23, 2014 21:20:06 GMT -5
So I'm curious what all I will need to run the stinger header when switching from the stock setup. Obviously I will need the down pipe but I'm not sure what to do about the waste gate? Because the factory one is internal correct? And it looks like the stinger setup is for a external? Sorry I don't know much about waste gates lol
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 23, 2014 21:26:19 GMT -5
And the oil lines are obvious also I'm just curious about the waste gate
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Post by Stinger on Oct 23, 2014 22:23:10 GMT -5
You can run the internal gate if you 1) get an internal WG downpipe and 2) get a WG flange blockoff plate. Since it moves the turbo, stock intercoolers or non-intercooled pipes don't line up anymore so you'd need a provision for that as well. I wouldn't be running a header with something that doesn't have an FMIC, and preferably a larger than stock turbo though.
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 24, 2014 21:00:36 GMT -5
Ok so do you offer the down pipe for the internal gate? And the block off plate? And why the bigger turbo?
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Post by Stinger on Oct 25, 2014 0:18:03 GMT -5
Yes, Yes, because components that are "matched" from a flow standpoint work better together than items that aren't matched. It's the same reason a ported head with stock intakes isn't that great of an idea. In that case the intakes restrict flow through the head, in the case of the header, the turbo restricts flow through the header.
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 25, 2014 10:52:31 GMT -5
OK makes sense. So whats the advantage of using a external waste gate?
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Post by Stinger on Oct 25, 2014 12:51:58 GMT -5
Forgot to mention the other issue with the stock turbo is with the header you need to rotate both housings and stock turbos are typically rusted together and are nearly impossible to rotate (and the elbow bolts tend to snap off).
There isn't an advantage IF the internal will control boost. As things get more wild though, internal gates on most turbos get less effective.
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 25, 2014 23:14:19 GMT -5
Ok thanks stinger
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 27, 2014 18:25:38 GMT -5
Ok so what size turbo do you think I would need to make 400hp and not restrict the air flow of the manifold? Would a 60 63 46 trim be ok?
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 27, 2014 18:26:45 GMT -5
Its a t4 compressor with a t3 turbine
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2014 20:29:47 GMT -5
A 46 trim would have to be pushed very hard to get to 400. A 50 trim is a larger T3/T4 and it runs out of steam between 400-425hp on a 2.3T engine when running a stage 3 exhaust wheel. It's a good choice, as are some other newer turbos from Borg Warner and Garrett and Precision. Of course the newer designs are more expensive but some aren't but $50-$100 more than a typical hybrid.
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 27, 2014 22:24:26 GMT -5
Well to be honest I don't really plan on going over 350. My goal is 300 but 350 wouldnt hurt lol I just wanted a turbo that won't have tonz of lag but I won't be pushing it so hard at 300-350 that it wont be reliable
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2014 23:05:24 GMT -5
The harder you push a turbo from a sizing standpoint, the less lag you'll get since the turbo will be smaller than something you aren't pushing as hard. The "newer" turbos mentioned above certainly spool quicker than the typical hybrid setup.
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Post by 84mustang on Oct 28, 2014 17:37:31 GMT -5
So if you had a HP goal of 350 what turbo would you use if you were on a budget?
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Post by Stinger on Oct 28, 2014 20:01:18 GMT -5
A 46 or 50 trim is the cheapest option ($700ish), preferably not one of the Chinese ones but the Chinese ones are dirt cheap ($200ish).
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