neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on Apr 24, 2015 23:40:43 GMT -5
I have an 88' T Bird Turbo Coupe. I just Bought it and It has a cold air intake and 3" exhaust. The car runs good and smooth with the exception of when I try to accelerate rapidly it cuts out between 4500 rpm to red line. I put the stock air cleaner assembly back on and it stopped cutting out at the rpm range mentioned above but lost quite a bit of horse power. I corrected the TPM and ignition timing adjustment and is now correct. The cam timing is correct. I had to disconnect the EGR on block it off due to a faulty vacuum solenoid/ switch and cannot find a replacement. I installed a new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. The compression is 125 psi across the board. The check engine light is not illuminated after starting the car and it isn't throwing out any codes when checked. I am very interested in a pimp system, and if needed a wide ban o2 meter and some larger injectors. With the information that I provided do you feel that my car is a good candidate for your pimp system?
Thank You,
Neil
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Post by Stinger on Apr 26, 2015 22:30:55 GMT -5
All applications that the PiMP works in is a good candidate but it's typically best to get issues worked out so it runs properly before determining if you're exceeding the limits of the stock stuff or not. What's the plug gap? What type of plugs? Standard copper or some more expensive option? How much boost? Any idea if it's got the stock fuel pump or not? Do you have a gauge to test fuel pressure under load (a gauge with a couple feet of hose that allows the gauge to reach outside of the hood)?
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neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on Apr 27, 2015 18:00:17 GMT -5
The cap, rotor and plug wires are all stock motorcraft. The plugs are the motorcraft but are the replacement of the original plug numbers. I set the plug gap per spec. The boost gauge shows 6 psi boost with the stock air cleaner and 11 psi on the boost gauge with the 3" cold intake. I installed a new stock fuel pump in it when I bought it. It has a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I set it to about 50 psi. When I revved it up it increased to at least 65 or 70 psi. I did run the gauge through the hood and taped it to the windshield to check the pressure under load and it was pretty close to the same, 65 to maybe 75 psi under acieration. I forgot to mention that this car was originally and automatic and converted to a standard transmission. The ECU was also swapped out to the standard transmission ECU. The car came with an extra standard transmission ECU. I swapped them out and still having the same issue. I did double check the part numbers on the ECU's that I have on hand and they are correct.
Thank you.
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Post by Stinger on Apr 27, 2015 19:44:32 GMT -5
Why did you set the fuel pressure ~12psi higher than stock even though the engine is basically stock, and running less than stock boost? How exactly was the pressure set? Engine on or engine off? Regulator vacuum line removed or installed? The problem is very likely that it's too rich and it's creating a rich misfire because of excessive fuel pressure.
Fuel pressure should rise 1psi for every 1psi of boost pressure. This means if you set it to 50psi and it goes to 65-70psi then you're running WAY more boost than you think you are (15-20psi). I assume you're using the stock boost gauge?
What do you mean that you "set the plug gap per spec"? What "spec"? If it's not the spec that I outlined above, it's a problem.
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neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on Apr 28, 2015 10:10:09 GMT -5
I set the fuel pressure 5 psi above stock. I was advised to try that from a mechanic. I guess that was a mistake. If I'm correct, standard operating fuel pressure is 45 psi. The engine was on with the vacuum line installed, at idle (when I adjusted it to 50 psi) and the vacuum line was installed when I ran the gauge and taped it to the windshield when I checked it under load. should I have checked the fuel pressure and adjusted it with the vacuum line disconnected? With the engine on or off? Could you tell me how I should check the fuel pressure properly please?
When I said that I set the spark plug gap to "spec" I set the spark plug gap to the specification per my manual at home. I'm at work and we're extremely short handed here. I have to email during my breaks and could not remember what the exact stock spark plug gap was.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Your products come highly recommended.
Thank You.
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Post by Stinger on Apr 28, 2015 11:12:10 GMT -5
Stock fuel pressure is 38psi. Fuel pressure is also checked/tested with the vacuum line removed so engine vacuum isn't altering fuel pressure (stock reading with vacuum line installed is in the low 30's depending on engine vacuum). This means you're running roughly 18 psi more than stock fuel pressure.
The only time fuel pressure is checked with the vacuum line installed is when testing under load.
The spark plug gap in the manual is too large. They need to be set to .028".
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neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on Apr 28, 2015 13:47:47 GMT -5
Thank you for your advice and your speedy response. I will readjust the fuel pressure and plug gap hopefully when I get off on Saturday. If this takes care of the issue I should be good to purchase your pimp system, correct?
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Post by Stinger on Apr 28, 2015 13:55:27 GMT -5
Yes, if you determine it's 1) necessary for your goals or 2) what you want regardless of necessity.
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neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on Apr 29, 2015 11:39:34 GMT -5
Yes to the comment mentioned above. I want to order you pimp system and have a few questions before I order.
1). Do I need to order the pimp 2.3 wiring harness also. I have been reading some of your forums and I wanted to make sure that it doesn't eliminate the ABS or other that components that may I need. Other than that, if it's a good idea to have it, I'll get it.
2). What type of wideband 02 senor should I get. Should it be mounted where the stock o2 sensor is or should it be mounted further down the exhaust and do you sell a bung or weldalet?
3). Since my car has a 3" cold air intake and 3" duel exhaust it was suggested to me to put some larger fuel injectors in it. I plan on doing some more light modifications in the future that you offer on your site which your pimp system will be able to accommodate. Can you suggest what injector size to get? Pretty much stock 88 turbo coupe.
4). any advise that you can give is greatly appreciated!
Please excuse my inexperience. I don't know all of the proper terminology.
Thank You.
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Post by Stinger on Apr 29, 2015 13:07:11 GMT -5
You don't "need" the harness. It's for people who don't have a harness, aren't using a normal 2.3 chassis (dune buggy, classic vehicle, etc.) or their current harness is butchered so badly they want to start over.
Any wideband controller will work. AEM and Innovate tend to be the most popular versions used with the PiMP. They both have controllers for $160 or so with a round gauge.
If you don't plan on upgrading the head/cam, our 60 lb hi impedance. If you plan to upgrade head/cam as well, same injector but the 80 lb version.
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neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on Apr 29, 2015 15:50:35 GMT -5
you do sell the wideband correct?
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Post by Stinger on Apr 29, 2015 16:16:00 GMT -5
No
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neil
Boosted Newbie
Posts: 7
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Post by neil on May 3, 2015 14:59:21 GMT -5
Thank you very much!! I adjusted the fuel pressure per your instructions and my coupe zips right to red line. I will be ordering the pimp and injectors as soon as I create a paypal account (tonight or tomorrow).
I have two more questions. 1) I've been reading through some of your forums and seen some reference to the Innovate MTX-L. I see 2 options. The innovate 3844 MTX-L and a 3845 MTX-L. In AEM. An AEM 30-4110. Could you suggest one of these please or a part number so I make sure That I get one compatible with your pimp system.
2) should the wide band 02 sensor be mounted further away from the turbo. if so, how far away from the turbo.
Thank you.
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Post by Stinger on May 3, 2015 21:15:01 GMT -5
ANY wideband will work. AEM 30-4100 and 30-4110 are popular options.
Yes, it has to be farther downstream. The wideband directions will say how far away from the turbo it has to be. Typically it's at least 18" and sometimes 24".
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