Hx35 and gears

[justboosted]

I'm going to be running an hx35 and I am wondering what the best way to make it street able is. I know that boost comes on around 3800 rpm so it will never rival the stock t3 in low rpm power. So, what can I do to help it out down low? I am going to do an 8.8 swap and was wondering if 4.10s would be a good gear for this. The idea is that it would help me off the line (a little more so that the 3.73 that are in it) and would keep me in the powerband of the turbo. Is this the right thinking or would 3.73s be better? Also, with the power levels I want to make I'm going to need a clutch. Does a lighter flywheel make as much of a difference in rev time as people say to justify the price of one or should I run the stocker?
Thanks for any help
FYI I have a home ported (bowl work and unshrouding), big valve head, header, 2277, ported lower, sc tb, custom 4" upper, I plan on getting a Pimp, the aforementioned turbo, and an FMIC.

[acobillas88]

I'm running a h1c (older version of hx35) that came with a 18cm turbine housing and swapped it out for 9cm from timsturbos. Spools way faster but it seem most people like the 12cm housing that are floating around, they are cheaper. Its all about what you want in the end. I wanted faster spool for more off the line (Fun factor/Road friendly). The 18cm was a dog to get going but when it rolling it keeps going. The 9cm spools something like 3200-3400. I've only had it out a few times a month ago and I couldn't really read the tach so take it for what its worth. Note I have 3.73 rear-end and n/a t5.

[Stinger]

You've got some decent mods so it shouldn't be quite as bad as some report. Load on the engine is what spools the turbo, not just RPM alone (which is why spool rpm goes down as gears go up, and why free-revving doesn't produce max boost). Lower (numerically) gears put more load on the engine. So gear choice depends on whether you're wanting it to spool is quickly as possible, or rev as quickly as possible.

[justboosted]

Thanks for the advice. As it turns out I just acquired a t3/t4 with a stage two wheel and a .48 a/r. Am I correct in thinking that this turbo would give a wider power band than the holset, and therefore be faster in the quarter? I see a lot of people running big holsets that take forever to spool and I always wondered why this is. My thinking would be that even though the holsets have more top-end, the smaller hybrid Garret's have way more bottom end. If all things stayed the same and all I did was swap turbos (and kept the boost levels equal) wouldn't I run a faster 1/4 mile time with the hybrid over the holset because my 60' time would be reduced?

[Stinger]

Too generic of hybrid info to give any solid info. None of those specs say what the compressor wheel is.

Once you're "in the power" when drag racing, you should never shift at a low enough rpm that it drops "out of the power" in the next gear. So for drag racing a bigger turbo will be faster, if you have a means to build boost on the line to get it moving.

On the street a smaller turbo will typically be more fun/faster for that type of driving. This depends greatly on how good of a match the turbo is to the engine, how good of a "pair" the compressor and turbo wheels are, if it's a Chinese turbo or not, etc. though.

[justboosted]

It's a Garret, not a Chinese pos. The guy I bought it from just told me it was a stage 2 wheel I'll pull it apart and look up what the wheels are specifically. What you are saying makes sense though. As far as staging it and building boost on the line I plan on running a pimp with the 2 step feature. Esslinger has recommendations for how to set up the valve train with their 2277 to run a 2 step staging strategy. I haven't received the parts I have ordered yet, but once they( springs, valves, retainers, keepers, and cam) get here it's going straight to the machine shop to get set up. My question is will there be a problem with the hlas? Assuming I get the seat pressure set up correctly to use a 2 step will the hlas be okay? I've read something on another forum where someone said they would be a problem. Also, this is a daily driver, but I want this car to be able to perform well on the track (hoping for high 11s to low 12s) so I do not necessarily need to keep a strong bottom end power characteristic. If I have him set up the valve train to run the 2 step (assuming the hlas are fine) how will the valve train wear as opposed to just having him set it up for all the cam asks for and nothing more (more seat and open pressure)? Approximately how much longer would the valve train last if I didnt have the machinist set it up for the use of a 2 step?

[justboosted]

Also, the hx is internally wastegated. What is the max boost I can run with the gate? I have a controller btw.

[Stinger]

Stage 2 refers to the exhaust wheel size, not the compressor.

HLA's are only a problem when there isn't enough spring pressure.

Setting it up for the 2-step is just adding stronger springs, nothing more. It won't effect valvetrain life at all since it's a roller cam and we're not talking about double the spring pressure or anything, were talking about 10-20% more spring pressure.

[Stinger]

May 25, 2016 12:18:20 GMT -5 justboosted said:

Also, the hx is internally wastegated. What is the max boost I can run with the gate? I have a controller btw.

The minimum pressure you can run with the stock internal gate is somewhere in the 20's (depends on the exact application that turbo was used on). Max is through the moon. You also can't control boost on a gas engine with a twin scroll housing that's only vented on one side with an internal gate. People mill out part of the divider to fix this, or they go external.

[justboosted]

Alright thanks for the info. Can you send me a link to a thread on this forum on how to do the milling? Thanks.

[Stinger]

There isn't any info on this forum about it. It's just removing an inch or more of the center divider to allow exhaust flow to "mix" between the two sides so both side can exit out of the wastegate hole. Rounding the edge of the divider so it's not a flat wall for exhaust to crash into is a good idea.

Of course don't do this if you want to use the turbo with a paired/divided header at some point.

[justboosted]

Thanks for the info. I know you get asked these types of questions all the time, but based on your experience and what is listed in the FAQ section, will I be able to hit around 400 flywheel hp? I have a home ported head with big valves ( you helped me on the DIY head porting thread), the holset, stinger header, FMIC (3" with BOV), Pimp that should get here Friday (just bought used from a member on this forum (pinto148, he's a great guy btw, I wouldn't hesitate to buy used stuff from him again), I'm going to order y'all's big low impedence injectors, ported lower with a custom 4" upper (just a steel tube big enough to cover all of the ports on the lower), sc tb, and I placed my order for a 2277 with all of the hardware to run it (as stated above). I am obviously going to ditch the restrictive vam.

This is kinda unrelated, but I have a question about setting up this Pimp. How do I purchase the TunerStudio license? Also, I have heard of these "jumpers" that everyone talks about. They are little ic chips if I'm not mistaken? They are used to enable the features that are "locked away" on the device, correct? Do you guys sell these, and if you do how much? Can I get them from a computer parts store (RadioShack,etc.)? I plan on using the 2 step (like I mentioned above), the table switching feature, and maybe the flat shifting feature down the road.

[Stinger]

You should be ordering high impedance injectors for the PiMP if buying new. There isn't any good reason to run low z versions unless you're running stock injectors.

You just email us and ask to buy a TS license and we'll guide you through the process.

Jumpers look like this: i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMFgxMDAw/z/~j4AAOSw~1FUVAdw/$_35.JPG I aren't IC chips, they just connect two pins together to complete a circuit. If the previous owner supplies you with what he has, you shouldn't need more. We can send some if necessary though. They don't really unlock anything, they just configure the ECU for your combination.

400hp at the flywheel "should" be doable on pump gas but I wouldn't expect much more.

[justboosted]

Okay thanks for the info. As far as a base tune goes, do you guys send me one or can I do it in the software? As far as my above combo goes what would be holding me back to get around 400rwhp?
Thanks for all the help over the past couple of weeks!

[Stinger]

We have to email base tunes.

You'd need more boost than you can run on pump gas, or you need more airflow (to allow you to make more power at lower boost levels) which would mean better porting, better flow through the intake/exhaust manifolds, etc.