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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 19, 2009 13:28:03 GMT -5
Hey again,
I have been doing some reading on this setup, and I like the way it works better than the draw through. My only concern is, I have read that the tops become pressurized and pop off (which is obviously a problem). Some have said that the best way to stop this is to drill a tiny hole in the cover with a small bit. I have also seen people worm clamp the poo out of it, and rely on zip ties as well. What is your take on this? Any suggestions or insight on how to handle this issue? Thank you for your time!
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Post by Stinger on Aug 19, 2009 13:46:02 GMT -5
You don't want to drill a hole, that just creates a boost/vacuum leak. Just clamp it down.
I don't suggest trying this if you don't have a wideband though.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 20, 2009 11:07:34 GMT -5
I will definately have a wideband on it for sure. I remember conversing with you about this before. since its now in the line of all the pressure, the door is going to open really early and the thing is gonna hit pig rich, and then lean out. i think thats something along the lines of what you said. from there i guess its just adjusting fuel pressure so that it doenst get too lean for my liking.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 20, 2009 16:27:29 GMT -5
Yes, though adjusting internal spring pressure can make it work better. Of course more spring pressure means more restriction as well.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 21, 2009 1:25:37 GMT -5
is there any real advantage to running it this way in comparrison to the draw through? it seems now that i may be going through more trouble than i want to. i ended up with one of your intercooler kits that a friend of mine got used. the bung for the bypass is on the hot side, and i know the vam is supposed to go on the cold side. I can run my bypass as a bov. does it matter if its on the hotside and my vam on the cold? as far as i know, as long as the bypass is in front of the air meter, it will not pick up on the leak and it will still run right. i am just trying to cover my bases before i go and cut at the intercooler kit i have to put the vam in the charge line. thanks again for all the help. if you have any helpful tips i am more than open to them. ive got lots of honda experience, but these 2.3t fords are smoething im still learning a lot about.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2009 9:42:17 GMT -5
The main advantage is you can squeeze more air through it when pressurized so it's less of a restriction. It's certainly not the "right" way to do things but it works if you screw with it. It will work fine with the bov on the hot side and vam on the cold side, that's how it was on my SVO years ago. I used a chip to change the transfer function of the vam though so I didn't have to screw with the internal spring.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 21, 2009 11:35:49 GMT -5
that clears up a lot of issues. by tightening the spring on the vam, you make the afr's more consistent correct? i think this is all starting to make sense now.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2009 12:59:53 GMT -5
It just makes the vam open slower (more spring pressure means it takes more air pushing against it to push it open). This means the vam is actually "reading" airflow over a greater rpm range before maxing out.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 22, 2009 16:56:39 GMT -5
the idea behind that being you want he vam door fully open at maximum load?
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Post by Stinger on Aug 22, 2009 21:16:51 GMT -5
Ideally yes, it would fully open at max boost/rpm in the higher gears. I reality though, you won't be able to put enough pressure on it to do so. In mostly stock form in their stock location, they max by 4k rpm or so. On the pressure side, it's earlier than that. If you can get it to be fully open by 4500 or later, you're doing pretty good.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 23, 2009 1:55:56 GMT -5
it almost sounds like more hassle than its worth now. thank you for answering my questions again. ill have to fiddle with it when i get an extra moment. how consistent are the afr's with the vam in stock location? i know it will be more of a restriction, but for the moment i think this is going to have to work.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 23, 2009 10:21:56 GMT -5
They will be consistent from one pull to the next, it will just go pig rich on boost onset and then lean out as rpms increase.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 23, 2009 19:16:52 GMT -5
how rich is pig rich? i dont want the mixture to go over 12:1 when it leans out, and thats pushing it. any idea what sort of fuel pressure ill be looking at once i get it all set and done, both for the blow thru and the standard location? ill be putting your intercooler on, stock ihi turbo, 17-18 psi with stock timing, ranger cam, and an open 3" dp with a 3" intake tube and k/n filter. for now ill run the standard ocation, but the blow thru will be happening down the line for sure. its just a general setup. im looking for a base pressure setting to start off with that i can adjust to my liking when the wideband goes in. i wont get my wideband in it until after i order another dp from you. i was also wondering if you could weld in an o2 bung when i order from you, or should i just do that on my own time. thanks again for your help. youve been great!
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 23, 2009 19:17:34 GMT -5
oh yea i forgot to mention, i am in tampa fl, where its hot all the time during the day, and does not cool down until night time. and even then its hot this time of year. i know that has an effect on the fuel ratio readings as well.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 23, 2009 23:08:10 GMT -5
It's going to get near 10.0:1 at boost onset and then move pretty linearly as rpms increase beyond that. 12.0:1 is a good idea for not going any leaner than that. I'd start at 39psi base fuel pressure (measured with the vacuum line pulled off the regulator).
An extra 02 bung can be welded on the downpipe for a minimal fee, it's not a big deal.
Temperature will not effect the a/f ratio (aside from the slight differences commanded from the ecu), though it will limit how much boost you can get away with on pump fuel and how lean you can go under boost without detonation.
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