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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 30, 2009 19:55:36 GMT -5
im running a forge bypass valve as of now. i managed to aquire one of your intercooler kits, but the only problem is, the moron that had it before me welded ina greddy flange and closed up the bypass valve bung. no worries on that however, i cut the greddy flange off and used a 90* silicon bend instead since it was mounted on the cold side right by the throttle body.
anyway, my question is, does the bypass need to run from the intake tube before the turbo to somewhere after the turbo (ie the hot side of the fmic pipes), or does it need to run from after the turbo (ie the hotside of the fmic pipes) to before the turbo on the intake tube.
as of now, i had the bypass valve itself mounted on the intake tube and tapped a hole for a fitting into the stock top mount, and ran it that way. i was planning on keeping the valve in the same location, and welding the 1" piece of tube onto the hotside of the fmic pipes and re routing the hose there. i just want to be sure this will work and wont throw off the vam by metering air twice.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 30, 2009 22:37:59 GMT -5
It just has to run from a pressurized area to a non-pressurized area. Doesn't matter which intercooler pipe it comes off of. Just goes from an IC pipe and then into the hose between the air meter and the turbo inlet. This is part of the reason I weld the bypass valve bung on the hot side down near the air meter...makes it easy to hook into the inlet hose because it is nearby.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 30, 2009 23:02:21 GMT -5
thats pretty convieniant. too bad the kit i ended up getting got hacked at before i got to enjoy it. oh well no matter ill make it work. thanks again. would you reccomend drilling out the hole that was welded up and then tapping a fitting into it, or just having another 1" piece of pipe welded there? the reason i ask is because i have the drill, tap, and old fitting that i used on my top mount still handy. just trying to save time is all, but i want to be sure it works before i go and do it.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 31, 2009 0:50:39 GMT -5
I don't really know how it was capped/removed by the previous owner so it's hard for me to say. I'd guess it would be easier to just use a new location that isn't already welded (multiple times) though. Whether you weld on a new 1" tube or tap in a pipe thread fitting is up to you.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 31, 2009 13:42:03 GMT -5
i think i am just going to find a new spot and tap in the fitting. the guy simply cut off the 1" pipe that you had welded in, and welded it shut. the weld is crappy too which makes it even worse. the good thing is, its down near the frame so nobody can really see it, and i will be painting the pipes silver.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 31, 2009 13:58:25 GMT -5
You may want to make sure the crappy weld cap seals before painting it.
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 31, 2009 18:19:49 GMT -5
yea i took that into account. ran into another issue. the pipes for the intercooler are thin and probably will not hold threads. i was going to weld in the fitting, but when i took it out of the origional intercooler and pulled the connecting hoses off, i found out that it is a BRASS fitting. i also need to find a way to weld in the vaccum split that goes on the origional tc intercooler as well. there is a line coming from the vaccumm tree and the line for the top of the bypass valve that need connecting still. i was thinking i would weld in the vaccuum split to the hot side, and then just find some 1" pipe or a non brass fitting to weld into the cold side for the bpv itself. the rest should connect without a problem. gosh i hate project cars. just when things smooth out, another snag in the line happens  . |
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Post by Stinger on Aug 31, 2009 19:36:04 GMT -5
Why do you want to retain the vacuum tee?
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Post by sleepinsol on Aug 31, 2009 22:34:14 GMT -5
i thought i had too. correct me if i am wrong. one of the lines is connected to a check valve which is connected to the vaccuum tree on the fire wall. the other is just the top of the bypass valve itself. doesnt it need somewhere to vent to as well? i just dont want the vam to pick up on any air leaks and not run right.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 31, 2009 23:04:56 GMT -5
You don't need it. The vac tree's vacuum/boost source is the intake manifold and the bpv hose can go directly to the vacuum tree.
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Post by sleepinsol on Sept 1, 2009 0:13:15 GMT -5
thank you for solving that headache for me. i will block off that check valve on the vac tree, and route the bpv directly there. another update for you. i got the intercooler mounted in the location it needs to be for all the pipes to fit nicely. ill be making mounts tom. or the next day, and painting the pipes nice and silver so they look good. great kit you make, even if the retard before me hacked at it a little. im sure it will hold boost just fine. i am using different couplers and t bolts however. i had already ordered a kit with some 90* bends in it because i knew i was going to have to cut the greddy BOV flange out to give back to the guy i got your kit from. in any event, i made it work today and im excited to drive the thing when its all back together!  thanks again! |
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thanks again!