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Post by turbo2300 on Oct 26, 2009 13:27:37 GMT -5
i got the 2.3 back together this weekend, and finally got it running. it runs on all 4 for once!! thanks for your help with the valve seats!!
my question is, i tried to set the timing up without the timing cover like some instructions i have seen have shown, and when i started it, it ran rough and smoked like a bastard.
i eyeballed the timing marks, and discovered the cam was probably a tooth off. i pulled it apart quick, advanced it a tooth, and the smoke stopped and it idled a little better. i take it out for a quick ride, and it hits somewhere around 15psi (i couldnt watch the guage the whole time) and doesnt really feel fast at all.. i was brainstorming today at work and thought to myself, what if i have the cam retarded one more tooth? i didnt put the lazyness, the high idle, and the hot underhood temps together till now, and it sounds to me like the cam needs more advanced. any ideas?
as always, thanks for your input
corey
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Post by Stinger on Oct 26, 2009 22:50:27 GMT -5
Just make sure the cam timing pointer is pointing directly to the center of the auxiliary pulley bolt. If it is lined up with that, the cam timing is correct. Then make sure the ignition timing is at 10 degrees BTDC with the spout pill removed. Then put the spout pill back in and make sure the timing jumps over 30 degrees when you do that. If that happens, the ignition timing is correct.
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Post by turbo2300 on Oct 27, 2009 10:14:10 GMT -5
mine doesnt go to 30*...
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2009 12:16:25 GMT -5
Does it not move at all? Stays at 10 degrees and doesn't move when you rev it?
You did remove the spout to set it and then plug the spout back in correct?
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Post by turbo2300 on Oct 27, 2009 13:23:51 GMT -5
i set it at 10* and put the spout in and it goes to 20, not 10....
come to think of it one time i checked the timing it was stupid high (to me, around 30) and i was like whoaa thats too much.. then it runs like nuts. no wonder, its not advanced enough!
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Post by Stinger on Oct 27, 2009 23:21:25 GMT -5
Sounds like you are setting base to 10 degrees ATDC not BTDC. You should be setting it to the 10 degrees that is left/above the TDC mark on the stock timing cover, not the one to the right/below.
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Post by turbo2300 on Oct 29, 2009 20:41:39 GMT -5
alright!!!! got the timing issue squared away, set for 30 with spout, and since i dont have a boost controller im running right off the wastegate (12psi) i think... it runs excellent, better than it ever has, and i can double the boost! i cant wait. thanks for all your help stinger, its much appreciated!
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Post by Stinger on Oct 30, 2009 16:32:40 GMT -5
I wouldn't attempt 24psi right away, I'd go to 15psi and then slowly keep raising it while making sure it doesn't detonate or go lean.
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Post by turbo2300 on Nov 2, 2009 8:26:42 GMT -5
yea i wasnt going to hit it with 24psi, i was gonna get a few heat cycles in it before i go big. also, i NEED a posi of some sort, this open rear is useless in anything but coasting lol
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Post by turbo2300 on Nov 9, 2009 10:16:42 GMT -5
finally working the bugs out, of this thing, put on a differnt IAC valve. car runs nice out of boost, but at idle it runs decent till the check engine light comes on and then it wants to hunt and die. any ideas?
also, is it normal for these things to not want to stay running when they are cold?
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Post by Stinger on Nov 9, 2009 18:50:01 GMT -5
No, that's not normal. Have you scanned for codes?
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Post by turbo2300 on Nov 9, 2009 20:30:05 GMT -5
holy balls did i get codes!!!! well, heres the freggin list
--key on engine off--
28- loss of tach signal right side DIS 81- thermactor divertor or bypass ckt 82- same as above 83- low speed primary fuel pump ckt 84- egr vaccuum regulator ckt fault 27- coil #2 primary ckt fault 41- EGO not switching lean exhaust 42- EGO not switching rich exhaust 58- Idle tracking switch stuck or ckt fault 63- TPS voltage low (voltmeter reads .94) 65- trans switch not functioning (obviously, since its stick) 66- airflow (MAF/VAM) ckt signal ground 68- trans oil overheating
--key on engine running--
25- no knock signal (i dont have the sensor plugged in) 34- EGR closed valve signal too high
i dont get the egr codes, as there was nothign electronic about the egr on the motor i pulled, just a vaccuum hose (which i put to vaccuum source just for nutss)
the tps sensor i checked, online said .95 volts, and mine is real close at .94. altho there is only 4.14 volts on the reference wire
the problems im having now are a random misfire at idle/low rpms, it wont idle when the engine is cold (stalls immediately) smells like it runs rich (burns my eyes actually) the whole car bucks at random times as well. running 40psi of fuel pressure with the vaccuum line unplugged and 10* timing with spout pulled.
basically, in boost it runs like a bear. out of boost, it gives me hell.
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Post by turbo2300 on Nov 9, 2009 21:17:26 GMT -5
well i did a quick search, and heres what i found on my codes..
28- Loss Of Ignition Diagnostic Module RH Side Vane Air Temperature Sensor Input Out Of Self Test Range (1.9L EFI) 81- Secondary Air Diverter Circuit Failure Turbo Boost (2.3L Turbo)
82- Secondary Air Bypass Circuit Failure Integrated Relay Control Module (2.3L Turbo)
83- Integrated Relay Control Module (2.3L Turbo & 2.5L) EVP/EGRC/EGRV (2.3L OHC & 3.8L CFI) 84- EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR/EGR Control Circuit Failure
27- Vehicle Speed Sensor (2.3L Turbo)
41- System Indicates Lean No HO2S Switching Detected
42- System Indicates Rich No O2S Switching Detected 58- Idle Tracking Switch Circuit Open Or Grounded (CFI) Vane Air Temperature Sensor Input Greater Than Self Test Maximum (EFI)
63- Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Below Minimum Voltage
65- Transmission Control Switch/Overdrive Cancel Switch Circuit Did Not Change States Fuel Control (2.3L Turbo) 66- Vane Air Flow Sensor Input Less Than Self Test Minimum (1.9L MFI & 2.3L Turbo)
68- Idle Tracking Switch Closed (1.9L, 2.3L, 2.5L & 3.8L CFI) Vane Air Temperature Sensor Input Less Than Self Test Minimum (1.9L MFI & 2.3L Turbo) 25- Knock Not Sensed During Dynamic Response Test
34- EGR Valve Opening Not Detected (2.3L OHC & 3.8L CFI) Defective EGR Pressure Transducer Sensor (1.9L CFI, 2.3L HSC EFI & 3.0L) EGR On/Off Control (2.3L Turbo)
im still wondering how this thing runs with all this random stuff in it.. i dont even know where to start!
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Post by turbo2300 on Nov 9, 2009 21:35:24 GMT -5
about code 34-
EGR Recall Info: Ford issued an Emission Recall in which they replaced the cat and modified the EGR system by installing a "Delay Valve" which basically slows down EGR valve response and counteracts surging. The valve will open & allow/pass 7" of vacuum at anything over 7" source vacuum. This modification and Delay Valve typically triggers a code 34 that is stored in the computer, but is nothing to be concerned with. TSB Number 93E45 Issue Date SEP 94 TSB Title Recall 93E45 - Catalyst Replacement
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Post by Stinger on Nov 9, 2009 22:08:45 GMT -5
--key on engine off--
28- Vane Air Temp out of range 81- Boost control not hooked up 82- Fan not hooked up 83- Fan again 84- EGR problem 27- not a valid 2.3 code 41- EGO lean more than 15 seconds while closed loop 42- EGO lean more than 15 seconds while closed loop 58- not a valid 2.3 code 63- TPS voltage low (voltmeter reads .94) 65- not a valid 2.3 code 66- airflow (MAF/VAM) below min test voltage 68- VAT out fo range
--key on engine running--
25- no knock signal (i dont have the sensor plugged in) 34- EGR closed valve signal too high
All of these issues would seem to indicate a major wiring issue, particularly one with the signal return wires (ground) for the sensors and/or the vam wires.
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