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Post by Detroitthunder87 on Nov 29, 2009 3:46:43 GMT -5
HI! I have an 87 turbo coupe. The only mods is a roller cam, cone air filter and a boost valve. A couple of weeks ago I was cruising down I-96 for about 6 miles, on the 6th mile i started to notice a slite humming noise coming from the engine area, and I noticed the temp gauge was at the top. I then came up on the first exit (which was the exit i needed anyway). As soon as i came to a complete stop the car died. At first it seamed like the batt. was dead cause it had sort of a slow turn over and then after a couple of tries the batt. went dead. I then called the ex wife to give me a boost still got the slow turn over let the batt. build up for awhile and still the samething. I then push it to her house and left it for a couple days. I bought a new TFI and put it on in front of her house and then gave it a jump start with my batt charger! Hell to da yeah! It starts, but now Its knocking loud.  at the time im thinking maybe it the timing, so with no timing light I blindly adjust the timing. Still does not make a difference. still knocking! So i say f it i caught the bus here its running so ill try to get it home. Thank god! I made it home.  the ride was smooth just a little slow on take off. I also notice the knocking whent away at times and just kinda sounded like a small rattle or shaking noise. once i got it home i checked the timing with a light. still the same at 10 degrees. I then took off the valve cover to see if i could see where the knocking was coming from! I noticed micro sized copper colored metal shavings not alot but a small amount all around the cam and valve components. My Questions is. could that be a rod bearing issue? If yes how hard is rod bearing to replace, and do I have to remove the motor? If their are other things it could be please dont hesitate to let me know. Thanks in advance to everyone who responds! |
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Post by FRANK/TurboTempo on Nov 29, 2009 10:13:09 GMT -5
www.car-parts.com and get new engine , or rebuilt yours . you need new crank and all rotational parts . you can pick up a good engine in the link I gave you for cheaper then the gasket kit to rebuild your. I know its what I use to find the one I just bought from Ray's in Michigan. or maybe someone has one for sale on a forum. you need a new engine or a rebuild.
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Post by Detroitthunder87 on Nov 29, 2009 14:49:22 GMT -5
I was hoping know one would say that. but if thats what i gotta do ill do it 4 my baby
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Post by Stinger on Nov 29, 2009 15:47:20 GMT -5
You never mentioned if you have oil pressure or not?
You can check to see if it's a rod bearing pretty easily. Just let it run at idle and pull one spark plug wire at a time and see if the knocking goes away when one of them is removed. If so, it's the rod bearing on that cylinder. If not, it could be main bearings, cam bearings, wrist pin, etc...though the shaving would indicate it's a bearing somewhere.
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Post by Detroitthunder87 on Nov 29, 2009 16:52:30 GMT -5
my oil gauge has not been workin for about two weeks now. ill do that check in the morning . thanks alot
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Post by Stinger on Dec 1, 2009 23:31:33 GMT -5
Has it not been working or have you had no oil pressure?
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Post by Detroitthunder87 on Dec 2, 2009 0:13:14 GMT -5
nope it wasnt working, but today I went out and fixed it, and started the car up. the gauge only gets to the M on the NORM, and thats only about a quarter of the way. I noticed that there is also a loud squeeking noise coming from the bottom engine area, and the knocking that i mentioned sounds more like something internal is loose, or like a rock is ping pongin around in the oil pan. I did the check you told me to do ,and heres what i got. when i pulled the #1 plug wire: the squeeking stopped, but after pulling all wires the rattle or knocking did not stop for none of the wires i pulled.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 2, 2009 4:00:59 GMT -5
Sounds like all of the rod/main bearings are screwed. A complete rebuild is in order (as well as figuring out what caused the problem).
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Post by Detroitthunder87 on Dec 2, 2009 11:26:03 GMT -5
Doggonnit! yep i kinda figured that. I guess the next question is, do you recommend any rebuild kits or, a place to get a remanufactured block for not too much $$$$$$.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 2, 2009 12:33:04 GMT -5
Remanufactured shortblocks are junk, they don't use dished forged pistons (among other things). Just get a used factory turbo engine for a few hundred bux.
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Post by oneowner88lx on Dec 2, 2009 13:08:10 GMT -5
Stinger, we bought a TC with a Jasper long block crate engine in it, pulled the engine out, and put it in our '88 LX hatch. Are the Jasper engines junk? I personally would never buy a crate engine, I prefer a rebuild by a good local shop, but it was already in the car with only 1,000 miles so we used it.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 2, 2009 14:46:35 GMT -5
It's just got hyper flat top pistons in it...doesn't make it "junk", just isn't as good as a factory shortblock.
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Post by oneowner88lx on Dec 2, 2009 17:39:46 GMT -5
It's just got hyper flat top pistons in it...doesn't make it "junk", just isn't as good as a factory shortblock. With hyper pistons in there how much boost will the engine be able to take? We have an IHI on it hooked up to the vacuum tee (for now) which keeps the boost low. |
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Post by Stinger on Dec 2, 2009 23:46:27 GMT -5
As long as the air/fuel is not lean and the timing is not excessive for the fuel octane, they can't take as much boost as a forged pistons. The catch is, when they detonate (from any of the things listed, or some other "issue"), the pistons crack and fail in a horrible way rather than either 1) taking it without issue or 2) melting slightly but not taking out the whole engine. The hyper pistons just take away the "cushion". The higher compression will make it more likely to detonate with the stock ecu timing curve though.
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Post by oneowner88lx on Dec 3, 2009 8:34:36 GMT -5
Thanks for advice Stinger. I think I'll keep that knock sensor hooked up until I can get a wide band on it.
I did read an article on line about a TC build up where they swapped cams. They were running a Jasper crate engine. After some time on the street the piston came apart and put a hole in the cylinder wall destroying the engine.
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at the time im thinking maybe it the timing, so with no timing light I blindly adjust the timing. Still does not make a difference. still knocking! So i say f it i caught the bus here its running so ill try to get it home. Thank god! I made it home. 
the ride was smooth just a little slow on take off. I also notice the knocking whent away at times and just kinda sounded like a small rattle or shaking noise. once i got it home i checked the timing with a light. still the same at 10 degrees. I then took off the valve cover to see if i could see where the knocking was coming from! I noticed micro sized copper colored metal shavings not alot but a small amount all around the cam and valve components. My Questions is. could that be a rod bearing issue? If yes how hard is rod bearing to replace, and do I have to remove the motor? If their are other things it could be please dont hesitate to let me know. Thanks in advance to everyone who responds!
