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Post by denz on Dec 3, 2009 8:21:40 GMT -5
where is the better place for the maf is it best in front of turbo draw threw or should i put it in line blow threw? and with this maf conv do i still have to dump my bypass in to the intake or can i get the wooosh!
thanks denz
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Post by Stinger on Dec 3, 2009 12:34:15 GMT -5
Just depends on preference and the size of the maf. The mafs can support more power in the blow thru configuration because the air is compressed when it goes through. If you already have a large maf though (80-90mm), there is no restriction on the draw through side and the 4" maf is difficult to adapt to intercooler tubing.
Maf = vam as far as bov's are concerned. You can get the "woosh" with a proper bov though and it's been covered numerous times on this forum.
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Post by denz on Dec 3, 2009 22:34:17 GMT -5
have you ever heard of this conversion for maf? www.splitsec.com/ (ARC2-A Air/Fuel Ratio Calibrator) i got one for a steal and thought i would play with it. it is supposed to be a 3.5 in maf that = 88mm so i should put it in front of turbo (draw threw) for ease of install. on blow off valves the HKS duel valve bullet style is like what you talk about. i got my new afr the O-meter from moates so this will be a good time to ask, what afr do you recommend at idle, and full boost 20 psi? whats the worst that can happen with this thing. blown motor more reason to finnish the 2.5 boport stage3 folvo motor LOL!!! |
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Post by Stinger on Dec 5, 2009 1:07:40 GMT -5
There is only one correct way to do a maf swap and this isn't it. The problem is there are fundamental differences in the way a vam and maf read airflow and this system doesn't account for them, it just converts the voltages (vam is 0-5v, maf is 0-12v). Without accounting for the fundamental differences, the system isn't truly accurately measuring airflow with the maf, it's just guessing (by the time the info reaches the ecu)... While you were on moates.net you should have got a chip of some sort so you could do a proper maf swap. I hope you bought the LC-1 with the o-meter because the 0-meter does not read the air/fuel ratio, it is just a display screen. 14-15:1 at idle and cruise, 11-12:1 under boost. What's the worst that can happen? Throw a rod or blow headgasket at high speed, throws oil all over the road and your back tires, creates instant spin, rolls vehicle through oncoming, ends in ball of fire...  |
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Post by denz on Dec 5, 2009 11:16:24 GMT -5
I get what you are saying its not a true swap, I bought the whole kit for 150 I just did it because i wanted to play with it. Im not going to spend any real money on a tunner until my other motor is done then it will be controlled by a f.a.s.t stand alone. So AFR 14-15:1 at idle and cruise, 11-12:1 under boost thanks. And as the o meter goes i did get the lc-1 and sensor. As far as the blown motor and oil all over ill try to stay out of that nobody wants to end up in a ball of fire. So with all these 2.3 questions i ask how about something else like hows the new shop?, and is your car running? also what do you think about that black svo with gold wheels on turboford for sale 7900.00 do you know any thing about it personally.
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Post by Stinger on Dec 5, 2009 12:30:05 GMT -5
You could get everything you need to do the maf swap (as far as the ecu side goes, you'd still need the actual maf and such just like you do with the thing you bought), for about 130.
The new shop is coming along, I need to upload some new pics. I just got the "business" stuff mostly organized a few days ago. Planning on finishing up the heat/ac unit today so I can warm it up...starting to get too cold to work out there so I'm glad the parts I needed to fix the heater finally showed up.
That svo was bought by the guy who is selling it for about the same amount of money 2 years ago or so. Matt C has ridden in it before and of course looked at it. There are a lot of neat things about that car (independent rear, volvo head, etc.) but it also gets coolant in the oil for unknown reasons last I heard...
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