How To Fix PCV System So Engine Doesn't Blow Oil

[Stinger]

It's fine, it will just send a bit more oil to the can than it would with the breather since the breather element helps to separate the oil mist from the air and return it back to the valve cover during vacuum conditions.

[tcwell]

Hey, just ordered all the parts to do this for my car...very nice write up!
I'm sick of having oil blowing out all over the place in my engine bay.

If anyone is looking for an alternative part for the house of hose part, I found fragola makes a part (available from summit racing or your favorite speed shop) part number is 496116BL or summit racing part number FRA-496116BL. For me it helps having summit in the back yard. (Less than 10 minutes from my work)

Anyway thanks again. Sorry for the lengthy post...I'd never be good at Twitter! 😊

[Stinger]

Thanks for the info.

The part number you provided is for a -16AN female to -16AN female fitting (for connecting to a male -16AN hose fitting). The House of Hose part is -16AN female to NPT so you can use the affordable plastic fittings instead of the high dollar AN based stuff. IMO if you're going to run a crimped hose with AN fittings then there is no reason to convert from Male AN to female AN and instead you could just use a female AN fitting on the hose and connect directly to the catch can.

[tutulate]

Shannon, I relocated my catchcan to the Radiator Overflow backet. The 1" line goes from the separator to the catchcan between the block and the alternator. It is almost a straight shot. The Valve cover line is routed along the fuel rail and forward to the catchcan. This mod seems to have created an issue. The catchcan fills very quickly, and I am getting the catchcan gunk into the cam area. Is this because the can inlet is so low and a straight shot from the separator? What could be causing the gunk to get into the valvecover vent line, and into the cam area?

I did not have this issue when the catchcan was behind the strut tower. The reason I moved it was I was getting a lot of smell in the cabin, and the turbo was melting the plastic lines.

[Stinger]

Yes, the vertical climb of the hose helps to separate oil from the air and let it run back into the engine instead of running into the can. I suspect it's getting into the cam area because it's filling up the can and drawing a vacuum that's sucking it into the cam. That's just a guess though. Either way, mounting it higher will likely solve both issues. You may even be able to simply put a bump/rise in the hose and fix the problem, though it may be hard to make that not look funny.

[tutulate]

Makes sense...Darn, it looked so good too! Maybe without the stock SVO intercooler, I can keep the hoses from melting, or insulate them.. Live and learn.

[tutulate]

Rerouting the line, and including the upturn did the trick. Even though I am having other engine issues, the catchcan is so far dry. Thanks, Shannon

[Stinger]

Nice!

[87tbird]

May 4, 2013 5:56:43 GMT -5 cupton79 said:

I talked to esslinger about this in preparation for my new build I am working on and they suggested running the block vent into the valve cover and enlarging the hole coming out of the valve cover and running 1 line to the catch can.... said it tends to keep more oil in the engine that way instead of blowing it in the catch can... does this sound like a good idea?

I have a question about this. I don't have the block oil separator, I have a 12AN fitting in its place. Can I run a line from that fitting to a 12 AN tee that's on the back of the valve cover? Then a line from other side of tee to the catch can? It sounds like in this way mentioned by "cupton79" that the line goes into and out of the valve cover.

[Stinger]

The AN fitting directly in the block is going to suck a ton of oil out so you'll certainly want to get it back in the engine somehow. The problem you can encounter with a bunch of oil and airflow in the valve cover is that it may not have anywhere to go if the oil drainback holes are full of oil draining back to the pan. In that case it will try to escape from the valve cover gasket, or oil fill cap. I don't know how full the drainback holes get at max RPM so I'm not sure of how big of a concern this is.

[slumlord]

My crankcase oil separator is pretty rusted and my machinist highly recommends not using it. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to use in its place? All I can find are direct fit 12AN fittings. Has anyone tried an Evac system such as Kevko's? It sounds like a pretty easy way to get rid of the oil smell in the cabin without potentially pushing oil into your intake yet seems not the best idea for turbo applications. Right now I am torn between an open and closed system though without a crankcase separator, I'm thinking that decision has pretty much been made for me if the can is going to fill as quickly as I suspect.

[Stinger]

The separator does a good job of making sure it's just air that escapes rather than oil/oil mist so if you can't use it, you will get more in the catch can than you would otherwise. If I wasn't able to use the separator, I'd likely put some steel wool in the fitting/hose in that area to try to catch the mist before it exits the hose. You'd need to make sure it's done in a manner so the steel wool can't fall into the block though.

[slumlord]

Yeah, that would be a bit risky considering. I have three of these motors, perhaps one of them has a clean looking separator. I guess Im just a bit worried about gunk from the old motor getting involved in the newly built motor. Ever had a separator go bad?

[Stinger]

I've not personally had one go bad. I always just flush them well to make sure there is no loose debris in them and run it.