How To Fix PCV System So Engine Doesn't Blow Oil

[truegraw1]

but your still going crankcase (one side of catch can) to rear of valve cover (other side of catch can, right?

[Stinger]

No, look at the pics. There isn't even two inlet fittings on the catch can.

Regardless, you should talk about how things are connected by how the air flows. Even if it were connected as you say, it still wouldn't be crankcase to catch can to valve cover as the airflow would be going TOWARDS the catch can in both hoses (crankcase to can, valve cover to can), not from the crankcase, through the catch can, and into the valve cover. If that's what it did it wouldn't "fix" anything.

[truegraw1]

do i have the wrong kind of catch can then? im all mixed up

[Stinger]

I don't know what catch can you have so I have no idea, did you buy the part number I listed in the first post of this thread or did you buy one of those cheap Chinese ones off eBay with the little tiny fittings and no internal baffle?

[ramos617]

Just wanted to say thanks for the write up
I installed the catch can a little after putting in a clutch and cleaning out my entire engine bay and tranny area
I've been driving my car hard a lot lately and it's officially leak free

[Stinger]

Jan 20, 2016 19:11:46 GMT -5 ramos617 said:

Just wanted to say thanks for the write up
I installed the catch can a little after putting in a clutch and cleaning out my entire engine bay and tranny area
I've been driving my car hard a lot lately and it's officially leak free

Good to hear!

[thedivergent03]

Couple questions if you got the time.

I live in Washington state will the cold weather we get for half the year cause to much condensation without the pcv?

I have 88tc stock valve cover. What is this valve cover vent I read about multiple times through the comments? Do I leave it stock or modify it?

[Stinger]

I live in Kansas, we're cold half the year here too. Just means you have to dump the can more often when it's cold out.

The valve cover has a vent canister between the throttle body and firewall, that's what's being talked about. It's in the pics in the first post.

[thedivergent03]

Your talking about the valve cover breather at the the back of the intake, that goes to the turbo snout on stock applications? Maybe I miss read but I thought I read you modify that to breath better? What did you do to modify it?

[Stinger]

Yes, that's the valve cover breather. It is not modified, just the hose that exits it is enlarged a bit and moved to the catch can for better flow.

[thedivergent03]

Finally got around to ordering the catch can. Should be here tomorrow. I noticed about half way you went to a bigger hose. Would it work the same to just get an elbow that fits the stock pcv hose and the other side bigger? I'm assuming the goal is 1" or 7/8" to be catch can and 3/8" out of breather to can?

[Stinger]

You can do it that way if you want. The reason it gets bigger is so it matches the size going into the can, and so it can account for the additional flow when the valve cover line is attached to the hose.

[tutulate]

Hi Shannon,
I am preparing for the catch can install. I have removed the EGR control Solenoid, and the Turbo Boost Switch and bracket to make room for the can. I have plugged all the vacuum lines and blocked off the EGR valve, but left the electrical connections open. Before this, full boost( 15lbs) gave me a wideband reading of 10.8-11.8, and after removing everything, it is now 11.5-12.8. Is this anything to be concerned with?

edit: I should add that I am using the 8UA computer and a manual boost controller.

[Stinger]

I wouldn't anticipate the AFR changing from removing those items.

[tutulate]

What if the vacuum lines were leaking before? They were certainly old, and possibly dry-cracked. Is the new AFR cause for concern?