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Post by dh86svo on Jun 15, 2020 8:57:21 GMT -5
I will be needing a clutch as something has happened to mine. I was out for cruise night Saturday night and something started making some noise. It sounded like it was coming from the bellhousing. So I headed home and wham, my car shut off and I could not get it to start again. I pulled over, opened the hood, and smoke was coming from the bellhousing. Now I am looking for a clutch but not sure which to go with. This is a 1986 Mustang SVO. It has a Garrett GT2871R running 18psi with 80 lb injectors, ported and polished head with the hydraulic Ranger cam. I do not know the horsepower or torque. What could you recommend for a clutch? I noticed the Spec stage 3 is cheaper then the stage 2 or stage 2+. If i remember correctly when I bought the car They had told me it has an aftermarket flywheel but cannot remember which it is.
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Post by Stinger on Jun 15, 2020 15:42:12 GMT -5
That turbo will support less than 400hp on a 2.3T and 18psi with a Ranger cam won't be anywhere near there. So unless you have plans to change the cam, bump up the boost, etc. then the 2+ or 3 would be fine. The 3 is cheaper because it's a less "exotic" disc material. The 2+ is made to slip at take-off while having a lot of grip under load. The 3 is more of a "race" feeling clutch that doesn't slip well (may chatter under certain low rpm take-off conditions).
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Post by dh86svo on Jun 15, 2020 16:02:05 GMT -5
That turbo will support less than 400hp on a 2.3T and 18psi with a Ranger cam won't be anywhere near there. So unless you have plans to change the cam, bump up the boost, etc. then the 2+ or 3 would be fine. The 3 is cheaper because it's a less "exotic" disc material. The 2+ is made to slip at take-off while having a lot of grip under load. The 3 is more of a "race" feeling clutch that doesn't slip well (may chatter under certain low rpm take-off conditions). What do you think about a "stage 1"? From a site it says it is limited to 255 ft lbs. Do you think I am over that torque at the flywheel? |
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Post by Stinger on Jun 15, 2020 16:04:20 GMT -5
That's basically stock torque so yes, you should be well above that.
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Post by dh86svo on Jun 15, 2020 16:12:48 GMT -5
That's basically stock torque so yes, you should be well above that.
OK. What about "stage 2" 315 ft lbs? I have never had to order an aftermarket heavier clutch just OE type replacements. Just trying to get the right clutch as I don't want to do this again for awhile. When I purchased the car the previous owner had installed a reman trans and said he also put in new clutch, tob, and pilot bearing as the same time which was about 2 years ago. I would think parts should last longer then 2 years. |
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Post by Stinger on Jun 15, 2020 23:34:10 GMT -5
What you described in your initial post is a catastrophic failure, not a "worn out" clutch. So how long it lasted has nothing to do with whether the clutch was replaced or not. Something flat out broke (which isn't how a clutch normally fails when it's worn out).
With that said, the engine can run without a clutch installed at all so the whole shut off/wouldn't start portion of the story is quite odd and I worry you may find more than just a broke clutch when you tear it apart.
If you want a clutch to last a while then 1) don't get one that's barely got enough holding power (as it will start slipping after it wears out a little and loses some holding power) and 2) get a clutch that matches your driving/usage style.
So while the stage 2 "might" be enough to hold it (when new), you'll be really annoyed if it starts slipping after 5k miles of wear.
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Post by dh86svo on Jun 16, 2020 8:00:40 GMT -5
What you described in your initial post is a catastrophic failure, not a "worn out" clutch. So how long it lasted has nothing to do with whether the clutch was replaced or not. Something flat out broke (which isn't how a clutch normally fails when it's worn out). With that said, the engine can run without a clutch installed at all so the whole shut off/wouldn't start portion of the story is quite odd and I worry you may find more than just a broke clutch when you tear it apart. If you want a clutch to last a while then 1) don't get one that's barely got enough holding power (as it will start slipping after it wears out a little and loses some holding power) and 2) get a clutch that matches your driving/usage style. So while the stage 2 "might" be enough to hold it (when new), you'll be really annoyed if it starts slipping after 5k miles of wear. Thank you for your help. That makes a lot of sense. I almost have the transmission readt to come out but I do not have a transmission jack and don't trust using a floor jack. I am hoping that maybe a spring came loose or a bearing locked up. I pulled the starter last night and could move the flywheel with a screw driver which confuses me even more. The starter looked to be ok and would click when I tried to start the car so I know it was trying to turn everything over. I probably should have taken it to a shop and let them figure it out but would rather try and learn what broke and maybe why it broke for future reference. |
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Post by Stinger on Jun 16, 2020 15:29:00 GMT -5
So when you said it wouldn't start, it wouldn't even crank (turn over aka spin the engine over) like it was completely locked up?
The clicking when trying to start (when it doesn't spin the engine) is typically the starter solenoid, not the starter hitting the flywheel.
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Post by dh86svo on Jun 17, 2020 7:47:18 GMT -5
So when you said it wouldn't start, it wouldn't even crank (turn over aka spin the engine over) like it was completely locked up? The clicking when trying to start (when it doesn't spin the engine) is typically the starter solenoid, not the starter hitting the flywheel. Yes it acted like it was completely locked up. After I removed the starter I could move the flywheel with a screw driver which make no sense to me. I am going to check the starter again after I get the trans removed to make sure it is working fine. |
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