|
|
Post by 85t on Sept 23, 2020 8:43:21 GMT -5
Hello. 1st post. Searched and found a lot of good information but nothing that specifically answered my questions. Sorry if it’s here already and I couldn’t find it. Here goes. I have a bit of a soup sandwich going. Working on 85 Turbo Coupe. Everything is stock except for new cam kit and a Stinger 3” exhaust. I installed a BoPort 1.5 CAM/SPRING/HLA kit. Reassembled with new belt and tensioner. Engine starts but stalls immediately. I can give it throttle and it will run for a few seconds then stall. I believe that I do not have the engine in time. Here are a few questions/statements that I need help with. 1. I installed a pointer on the engine to keep the TDC reference after positioning #1 at TDC and removing the crank pulley and belt cover. With the key way straight up if I put the mark on the crank gear directly in the notch and slide the pulley back on it is no longer at TDC - why? If I move the crank pulley counter clockwise and line up the low part of the gear (immediately to the right of the mark on the gear) and slide the pulley back on, the TDC mark on the pulley lines up with the pointer that I installed. Where do I spot the crank pulley mark/“tooth” to set the static timing for the belt installation? 2. My oil pump/distributor gear has a marked tooth, there is no mark to align this to on the back cover. Do I line up this mark with the cam gear mark when using the straight line/dipstick method? and if yes do I position the distributor so the rotor cap is pointed to #1 and the body of the distributor clocked with the module at the 5 o’clock position prior to installing the belt? Thank you in advance for your help.
|
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Sept 23, 2020 13:23:53 GMT -5
I'm not following your crank pulley/marks not lining up description.
With an aftermarket cam you really should have an adjustable cam gear and set cam timing using the "ebar" method. Otherwise you're leaving a decent amount of power on the table, or power peak RPM will be higher than ideal. We sell adjustable cam gears for this reason.
When engine is at TDC on the compression stroke, cam pulley mark should align with aux shaft bolt centerline (which should put the cam gear keyway basically straight down and should put the intake and exhaust lobes on #1 pointing at 10 & 2 o'clock and they should be level with each other relative to the head). When installing the belt, make it tight on the aux gear to cam gear side and loose on the tensioner side so when the tensioner takes up the slack, it doesn't change timing. Then rotate the engine a full rotation back to TDC on the compression stroke and verify it's still where it should be.
Aux shaft mark doesn't matter since you can just move the distributor to adjust ignition timing, or pull the distributor and reposition if it's way off. When it's "right", rotor should point to #1 spark plug post on cap when everything else is at TDC. Then when cranking the engine, set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light to adjust it precisely. If engine is running when you set it, pull the spout connector to lock timing and then set to 10 degrees BTDC and then plug spout back in and it should go to 20-35 degrees at idle.
|
|
|
|
Post by 85t on Sept 24, 2020 7:53:53 GMT -5
Thank You! I will order up the adjustable cam gear from you so I can take full advantage of the camshaft. In the mean time I will follow the information you provided and get it running. On a side note I was able to get it to run and stay running using very little throttle input by unplugging the spout connector and manipulating the distributor.
|
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Sept 24, 2020 14:53:54 GMT -5
Unplugging the spout retards timing by about 15 degrees so that just indicates you need to set timing with a timing light.
|
|
