|
Post by atxturbo on Jul 28, 2022 18:51:40 GMT -5
So the VAM meter is testing .25-4.5v when the book calls for 1-5v. I assume this is the problem or definitely adding to it. I found a 87 thunderbird at the junkyard that has a complete engine. I can’t tell from the pic to see if the Vam is still there. Hopefully it is so I can keep diagnosing. If the junkyard wants to sell the complete motor I might be tempted to toss it in since I know this motor is just a NA mustang engine so I’m still afraid of the pistons and rings being the down fall of this car even if I get it running. Edit: just ready your VAM testing where .25-4.5v looks acceptable. The paper online says 1-5v. I was excited to at least know the issue and try and find another VAM. . Back to square one. I read a post about a some similar issues and ended up being a fuel pump. Mine is new but I didn’t change the S hose. It’s a 255lph I also didn’t do any upgrading of wires like I did on my other coupe that had a 340lph. I don’t think it’s needed but I could be wrong.
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Jul 28, 2022 21:50:28 GMT -5
Do not worry about turning the boost up until all known issues are resolved. The only thing more boost will accomplish is damaging things.
You can scan for codes to see if any sensors are having issues. An EEC-IV code scanner is less than $30.
Stock pump wiring should be fine.
I'd certainly snag the turbo engine if it's available for a decent price. If it's in a wrecked car it's basically guaranteed to be a running engine (hard to crash if it doesn't run). If it's just a junked car that's not crashed then it's hard to say for sure.
You don't just adjust the idle screw on a whim. You have to unhook the IAC, then set the idle speed to 750ish, then plug it back in. If you turn the screw much then you have to reset the TPS voltage so it's not above 1v or below .8v at idle.
|
|
|
Post by atxturbo on Jul 28, 2022 22:15:24 GMT -5
Do not worry about turning the boost up until all known issues are resolved. The only thing more boost will accomplish is damaging things. You can scan for codes to see if any sensors are having issues. An EEC-IV code scanner is less than $30. Stock pump wiring should be fine. I'd certainly snag the turbo engine if it's available for a decent price. If it's in a wrecked car it's basically guaranteed to be a running engine (hard to crash if it doesn't run). If it's just a junked car that's not crashed then it's hard to say for sure. You don't just adjust the idle screw on a whim. You have to unhook the IAC, then set the idle speed to 750ish, then plug it back in. If you turn the screw much then you have to reset the TPS voltage so it's not above 1v or below .8v at idle. Gotcha. Yeah I know better then to touch the throttle screw but got excited and just took off. I figured the computer would relearn eventually. But I didn’t think about the tps changing. I’ll double check again tomorrow and run codes again. Is it normal for the piping from the intercooler to throttle body to be super hot? I couldn’t find a 9v battery to get a temp reading on it but I might try.
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Jul 29, 2022 12:23:48 GMT -5
It's hot under the hood (radiator, engine, and turbo are all 200+ degrees) and air temps out of the intercooler are going to be hotter than outside air temp (especially at low vehicle speeds).
|
|
|
Post by atxturbo on Jul 29, 2022 21:52:56 GMT -5
It's hot under the hood (radiator, engine, and turbo are all 200+ degrees) and air temps out of the intercooler are going to be hotter than outside air temp (especially at low vehicle speeds). Okay. That makes sense. I pulled the IAC today and was idling around 500. Bumped it to 800. Plugged IAC back in and car jumped to 1200 or so. I couldn’t get the meter to work so I cut the car off and just kept the key on. Ended up thinking I had a bad tps sensor but realized I was back probing the wire incorrectly. Got the tps set to .98v. Took up the hill again, same thing. After I let off the gas almost stalls, drops to 400-500, had to feather the throttle back down the hill, stalled as I turned in the drive way. Got it restarted as I was coasting by giving a ton of pedal, turned in the garage and car stalled and came to a stop. I think my only option is to try and hook the MS up so I can see real time data that can hopefully get me closer to what’s happening. I’m seeing some strange afr readings like when I let off the gas it jumps to 17 maybe higher. Makes me think I’m still experiencing a vacuum leak somewhere. I’ll smoke test it tomorrow. And hopefully I can make this boost tester work without blowing lines off the car. The one thing I had trouble with was even getting to 10psi on my Compressor.
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Jul 30, 2022 0:02:11 GMT -5
Being off the throttle it's supposed to go full lean, the injectors shut off on decel. This is normal behavior.
When it stalls, is it only after you get some boost? Does it sound like it's missing/running on 2-3 cyl afterwards? Does it take some time before it will restart?
|
|
|
Post by atxturbo on Jul 30, 2022 8:51:49 GMT -5
Being off the throttle it's supposed to go full lean, the injectors shut off on decel. This is normal behavior. When it stalls, is it only after you get some boost? Does it sound like it's missing/running on 2-3 cyl afterwards? Does it take some time before it will restart? Yeah it only stalls after boost and yes it sounds like it’s missing bad. And it will restart perfectly fine later. I usually go inside after it stalls for the day but I’ve gone back out 30m-1hr and it’s starts strong and idles fine
|
|
|
Post by Stinger on Jul 30, 2022 11:10:20 GMT -5
If the valve springs are worn out, it will allow the lash adjusters (HLA's) to pump up and hold the valve(s) open. This only happens at an elevated RPM (typically involving boost but not always) and then it resolves itself after the HLA's bleed off the excess oil in them and allow the valve(s) to close. The end result is running rough or stalling after high RPM/boost, difficulty restarting, and the problem going away over time. The reason I asked all of those questions in the last reply is because they are all symptoms of weak springs.
|
|
|
Post by atxturbo on Jul 30, 2022 16:58:37 GMT -5
If the valve springs are worn out, it will allow the lash adjusters (HLA's) to pump up and hold the valve(s) open. This only happens at an elevated RPM (typically involving boost but not always) and then it resolves itself after the HLA's bleed off the excess oil in them and allow the valve(s) to close. The end result is running rough or stalling after high RPM/boost, difficulty restarting, and the problem going away over time. The reason I asked all of those questions in the last reply is because they are all symptoms of weak springs. I’m gonna a email a couple pics of the cooler and the pipe set up and see if on of the yalls kits will work with my setup. I found a leak on the according hose where it connects to the front of the compressor housing. Looks like a hose clamp was faulty even though it felt tight. I tried to go up the hill after replacing the hose clamp but I keep popping off this 90 degree piece off the compressor housing
|
|