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Post by boosted88 on May 17, 2010 11:37:16 GMT -5
ya i thought i had it wrong. i fixed it and she started up. she wont rev still wich i think is because i got a really big vacuum leak, i think it is my intake, or my egr. but hahahahaha this it to you stinger looks like i got it kind of running LOL hahaha
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Post by Strangeleak on May 17, 2010 13:06:27 GMT -5
Then perform a vacuum leak test and report back. Are you familiar on this process?
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Post by Stinger on May 17, 2010 13:58:14 GMT -5
ya i thought i had it wrong. i fixed it and she started up. she wont rev still wich i think is because i got a really big vacuum leak, i think it is my intake, or my egr. but hahahahaha this it to you stinger looks like i got it kind of running LOL hahaha Congratulations, you're back to where you were 5 months ago...runs but won't rev. |
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Post by boosted88 on May 17, 2010 14:49:45 GMT -5
AND AGIAN VACUUM LEAK!!!!!!!!! and strangeleak I KNOW HOW TO DO A VACUUM LEAK TEST. FOR YOUR INFO IF I AM SO STUPID WHY DID I JUST GET DONE BUILDING A 700hp+ FORD F100 A FULL FRAME OFF resto. 460BB 700HP+ on race fuel. I AM NOT GOOD WITH EFI YET. see how i said yet. didnt you say when this first started (o hey i bet its the wiring) well the wiring was replaced. i had the motor checkd so it aint a valve, piston, rings ect ect ect ect. so you tell me what else it could be if the wiring aint the problem???
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Post by Strangeleak on May 17, 2010 14:56:42 GMT -5
Boosted88, this is not a personal attack. Only someone who noticed your attempt at self improvement and would like to help you further if possible.
I am well aware of the range of quality of schools in the US, and it is wide. And perhaps it is not your fault entirely, or theirs, that your grammar and punctuation are sub par. So when a suggestion is made regarding the "readability" of your posts, please take note and attempt to improve on that. It goes a long way in the real world. Trust me.
I have read your original post from start to finish and would like to say that your current thread is much improved. Once again I am not trying to belittle or insult you, only trying to save you from possible embarrassment in the future. Stinger has graciously provided a spell check feature if you reply to a post using the "Reply" link at the lower right of a thread. Not the reply window located to the lower left.
While using the spell check may not improve your spelling or vocabulary. Using Google, instead, to show the correct spelling of a word may embed itself into the left hemisphere of your brain. Assuming that you make an asserted effort to get as close as possible.
....for what it's worth..
Stinger, I apologize for the remedial English lesson as I know that is not the intended purpose of the boards. But in this case I felt it might help someone further their knowledge, whether pertaining to 2.3's or not.
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Post by Strangeleak on May 17, 2010 15:34:24 GMT -5
strangeleak I KNOW HOW TO DO A VACUUM LEAK TEST. FOR YOUR INFO IF I AM SO STUPID WHY DID I JUST GET DONE BUILDING A 700hp+ FORD F100 A FULL FRAME OFF resto. 460BB 700HP+ on race fuel. No one on this forum, except you, has ever implied that you are stupid. In fact, you are the one who has used the statement several times that you are, "only 17". Which seems to me that you are suggesting lack of experience, which is why I asked the question regarding your familiarity with a vacuum leak test. Furthermore, if you just recently finished building a "700hp+ Ford F100 Full Frame-Off Resto", then explain to me why you're requesting help on other forums for the installation of a carbureted 302? Just doesn't make sense. You can't come onto this website, or any other site for that matter, and rattle off a laundry list of problems with your vehicle and expect anyone to tell you the exact issue. It's a process of diagnosing and repairing. Now the fact that you choose to ignore the advice given MONTHS ago by Stinger and other 2.3 "turbo-wise" individuals is your OWN FAULT!! Realize that all we can do is suggest possible remedies, and assume that you will perform the suggested repair before inundating us with illiteracy and the opinions of your Junior/Senior class, and that you will wholeheartedly attempt to reproduce with a wrench or volt-meter what has been suggested by the "over 17" individuals on this site, and get rid of your "Fuel Injection Sucks Anyways" attitude. Until then, you are the only one who is keeping your car from running. |
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Post by duffy1992 on May 17, 2010 16:08:16 GMT -5
I dont know if you have already checked the vam yet or not just wanted to let you know I know a guy that had a 2.3 ranger with a maf and it also wouldnt rev past 2300rpm. You could have it to the floor and it was just like the rev limiter was set to 2300rpm, we unpluged the maf and it would go all the way to 6000rpm he swaped the maf and it runs fine. Just thought I would throw that in, I know the maf and vam are different but you never know.
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Post by oneowner88lx on May 17, 2010 18:14:53 GMT -5
Yeah there is a guy on the other forum who unplugged his VAM and that allowed it to rev.
What codes do you now have? I would not even start it until all the codes are addressed.
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Post by Stinger on May 17, 2010 22:47:41 GMT -5
she wont rev still wich i think is because i got a really big vacuum leak, i think it is my intake, or my egr. well the wiring was replaced. i had the motor checkd so it aint a valve, piston, rings ect ect ect ect. so you tell me what else it could be if the wiring aint the problem??? For the 15th time, fix all KNOWN ISSUES before trying to diagnose problems. If you can't tell what I'm talking about by reading the two quotes of yours above, I don't know what to say. |
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Post by boosted88 on May 17, 2010 22:59:57 GMT -5
hey duffy, that is true when i unplug my vam it dose rev over........ ok well i will look for a new vam thanks man
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Post by Stinger on May 18, 2010 1:05:13 GMT -5
Unplugging the vam puts it in "fail safe" mode which ignores a number of different sensors and inputs. This means if you unplug the vam and it runs better, that doesn't necessarily mean the vam is the problem. It could be any of the inputs it ignores in fail safe mode or any of the wiring to any of those inputs. Using a volt meter you could check for proper operation of the VAM in a few minutes without having to spend any money or time searching for a new vam that may or may not fix the problem.
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Post by denz on May 18, 2010 6:53:23 GMT -5
He likes the plug and play! ;D
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Post by boosted88 on May 19, 2010 14:56:32 GMT -5
ok i ran codes and this is what i got the first time i forgot to plug my vam in so this is what i got 51, 54, 58, 63, 66, 81, 82, 83, 85, 88. the secend time i pluged my vam in and this is what i got 51, 54, 63, 81, 82, 83, 85, 88. i dont know what would cause this??? i know thw wirieng is new. could it be the computer?  |
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Post by Stinger on May 19, 2010 16:09:47 GMT -5
Bad computers don't give codes.
Since it says your ECT, ACT, and TPS voltage is out of range, you need to verify voltage to those sensors with a volt meter. If the signal and signal return wires have correct readings but the variable wire is not outputting properly, it's the sensor(s), if the sig/sig return wires have wrong readings, it's the wiring.
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Post by oneowner88lx on May 19, 2010 17:01:29 GMT -5
The wiring harness to the TPS, IAC, ACT, and ECT was not replaced. That is the harness that is all spaghettied up with a rats nest of wires all over the place. He just replaced the main harness from the ECU to the engine bay. The two harnesses on the engine itself have not been replaced: fuel injection harness and the rats nest harness; those have not been changed.
Since he is running the Turbo Coupe upper/lower intake the stock 2.3 NA engine harness probably won't work because the Turbo Coupe places the ACT and Knock sensors in a different location. That is probably why the harness is all butchered up because previous owner rigged it up to make it work which it did for a while.
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